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Proper British springtime photo - grey skies, washing out on the line defying the weather, bonus dog's back end as well, unsure why I'm screwing my face up so much but there we have it. Toy's Mccoy // Denime 2nd fit: same + Cushman sweat, Altra trail runners & Yeti cap In truth it’s been a difficult day, first day of both my girls in childcare, it’s not something we ever wanted to do and the drop off was emotional. Maybe that’s why I was also screwing my face up in the first photo. Anyway, some suitably dad fits. PS the 220a’s are MEGA crispy, I did not expect that!

understanding very much discussions above; good luck with the socialisation; takes a village to raise the child... (or via Lev Vgotsky; it is through others we becomes ourselves...) 1960s finnish army surplus (m62) / lvc 1870s / pecos

Kapital, Sugar Cane (not visible), Ooe…and Blundstones which aren’t my fave but the default choice for shitkicking in the mud season here.

Top to bottom - MF, SC, Ooe, FW, Lofgren

Saint James - Duke - SC1946 - Alfred Sargent

At Last 147 and 677J / Big Yank by Anatomica / Duke Mantee / Viberg

First wash after roughly 2 months. I admit I have neglected them after getting the Denime 101

Back home, backlit Tilley / Bubo / Hollows / Vanishing West / Frank’s

I picked up a book of porcelain enamel signs for signpainting reference material, and was surprised to see several denim / workwear brands represented! Interesting that many of them have been revived in Japan as well.

Ok, so here they are, washed a time or 2, the one on the right has been worn more by me. Labeled CR07, paper tag. The fit is just perfect, and it’s my favorite type 2 I have. I believe it’s the xx2 denim, but correct me if I’m wrong.

Inspiration 01s just arrived, will get some photos up comparing them to the 03s.

the brand's name is Militora.

comp or not, I have made my tux order: 46 jacket, 38w jeans (requested hemming to 80cm) cons: I need another jeans like holes in heads I need another jacket like a hole in wallet these jeans are not standard easy wear; slim-ish cut, yet thin material yes; one back pocket, no belt loop for keys etc. ultimate sloppy man baby diaper look pros; nostalgieeee: for those wanting 1990s jeans; this late 1800s models is reference from which Levis late 1990s twisted jeans was running (maybe more y2k refrance, but hey...) nostalgieeeeeeee 2: these were first model I got from lvc back in the late 90s; seeing as I run a trio of tcb, tender, lvc; wanna wee what tcb do with this original pair to build from having multiple lvc examples love of the meta; yes; no.2 as brand positioning... the first two Viktor's voice jackets don't look right (inc. lucky jeans): this is getting there more imo; mostly also tcb is obviously developing its own specific jacket pattern methodology of wide shoulders and sloppy fits: the numbers on this look squarer, even if not 'classic'... pockets looks excellent; both back pocket on jeans and front pocket on jacket yes to the styling in the shoot; not miner cosplay; more skatecore and sloppy old 'uns style: I appreciate that (definitely recommend not skating in any jeans with suspender buttons; had some nasty sk8 face-plants when wearing such jeans: they are placed to puncture skin in painful bony areas...); feeling this is a track suit more than anything... want to see how the fabric ages; every tcb pair I've had has been a journey; even the 10oz bib overalls have a lot to give: I expect these will be giving a lot given the status play of making an 1890s from an original; not had natural indigo from them b4 huge plus: ultimate sloppy man baby diaper look; goes well with pecos and converse... experience: said this in all comp. threads; every tcb jean I have owned has shrunk to tagged waist size; more ppl have dropped out from jeans being too small rather than too big... wearing big on these across time also allows layering needed in winter... yes; 31cm front rise seems small, but is in line with the last cone 1870s lvc offering (picture uploaded here is said w.36 l.34 pair - from raw soaked - line dried, not machine washed ) - the back rise is the core matter... can definitely understand hesitancy in uptake for a comp. - its not classic 5 pocket jawns, jacket has particular character; but it is what it is... a marmite model...

Union Special / Bubo / Vanishing West / Russell Really not used to wearing jeans this slim, these days

Saw the spectacular amazing and talented Sierra Ferrel this week and had to get my Y'all-ternative on. Barlesoni Homburg Lots of rings Cropped Levi's Western shirt Vintage 1984 Olympics tee (as worn by Val Kilmer in Real Genius) Painted leather belt Mister Feeedom Outlaw Vintage Justin's with tulip inlay and homemade bootstrap. This T shirt is one of my most prized vintage items and probably the rarest tee I own. Obviously no provenance but since it came from California you can't prove it's *not* the screen used shirt!

M41200 action shot feat. Tilley, Great Lakes, Frank’s, dog

Update on some 51s I’ve had for awhile and a fresh pair of 51s I picked up not that long ago a size down. Particularly enjoying the fades on the button fly. Almost have a back pocket rivet poking through. A few more spills skateboarding and I should be able to send out some sparks!

Momotaro 0901 size 32, worn on and off since 2015 (when I had them tapered slightly). They’ve been my dog walking jeans for the last 2 winters and are now heading for the bin as the crotch is falling apart, having already been repaired. I’ve really enjoyed this pair and at 15.7oz, they’re the heaviest weight jeans I’ve owned.

Something completely out of left field. Swung by the new Self Edge Austin location last weekend for their opening day and picked up a pair of Rick Owens sneakers. If you would've asked me 5 years ago if I would wear Rick Owens I probably would've laughed at you.

1942 506xx landing at stores now, featuring a nicely faded tab.

Doing loads of Larkin Poe belts is good … right? Hermann Oak, black studs, hand embroidered cloth overlays

Another wallet - new configuration La Perla Azzura - Tamponato Lux, hand buffered leather Cash compartment, 3 card slots, 2 hidden compartments and 2 ID compartments

I wouldn't want this thread to unravel... but it's like going into a 30s repro thread (if one existed) and saying what's the point of adding a cinch and suspender buttons to the jeans, or a 50s thread and asking for a 25cm rise instead. Or looking at the latest TCB 1890s repro and questioning why there's only one pocket... If the manufacturers are doing a repro, then if what they're copying has wonky-ness then I'd expect them to replicate that. It's just a feature of the time. When the bloke above snips off the extra thread and gets some wear into the jacket, it'll come up looking grand imo. I'm a sucker for a variety of denim jackets... so happy to embrace the repro features... I am always taken by how the industry does reinvent and evolve itself with new versions or repeated versions of repeated versions... the new 1942s, the 1890s, the... will it ever end... hopefully not... long live Sufu!

Couple of comparison shots of the 03s worn for a bit and the new 01s which have not been washed / worn yet. The 01s use the same denim but the "A-grade" variant, so a little less irregular (not that the denim used on the 03s is very irregular to start with). The 01s are on the left, the 03s are on the right.

Stan Ray wool mix shirt Warehouse T Warehouse 1000XX DSB Kamakura socks

@beautiful_FrEaK yes they made a type 2, it was several years ago now (the post I found was from 2017). I think they made it for one of their Japanese retailers Commono Reproducts (which seems like is no longer in business), not many were available. Would love if they made a traditional type 1 / 2 someday. Some more photos here: http://livininparis.com/2017/03/23/ooe-yofukuten-co/

Sad news out of Japan as Toshikiyo Hirata, founder of Kapital, has died. One of the highlights of my trip to Japan was visiting Kapital shops across the Golden Route. I admired the brand’s aesthetic, but didn’t think it would fit with my personal style. While a lot of the stuff they produce is too wild for me, most everything they make is high quality. My wife and I had a blast trying stuff on and purchased a few of their tamer, more basic pieces. The man had a vision and his contributions to denim and fashion are undeniable. RIP Hirata-san

Honestly, I’m just seeing these exaggerated ‘machinist errors’ as a bit of a joke now. Every new effort seems to want to outdo the last one. I know I have a slightly different view to how this ‘poor quality’ might have manifested itself originally but these modern iterations just don’t convey the spirit of wartime efforts - more like they are ‘ripping the arse out of it’* *reproduced from The Dictionary of Modern Scottish Language (current edition)

I was hoping for a RyoXRoy collaboration.

I just received some Lot 147’s and I’m pretty hyped. Does anyone have pre and post soak measurements? These would be my first wide pair of pants and still trying to figure out how to get the best shrink and fit in them. Thanks!

New York Hat Co // MF Continental // Sun Surf // MF Lot 74 // Viberg x Iron Heart

^ great action shots!! More sedate here today... Ooe x 2 (just washed Bandanna Almanac, Railroad jacket) / McCoys / Converse

Rest in power, Hirata-san. https://www.yokogaomag.com/editorial/kapital-founder-toshikiyo-hirata-passed-away

New in, Fob Factory F198, size 33, one wash and unworn. I’m not sure what year these were made but they feel old and have a slightly musty odour and plenty of loose threads (which I’ve been removing), which is something I’ve found on some of my pairs from the 90s and noughties. I’m not sure about the weight either but they feel about 13-13.5oz. Colour’s a bit darker in real life than my crappy photos. Notable features: World Jeans International buttons (very matte) Scovill rivets, unbranded at the front Offset rear belt loop ‘F’ on red tab Storage crease on crotch! Measurements (BiG style) Waist: 32” Front rise: 12” Back rise: 15.5” Thigh: 13.5” Inseam: 34.5” Hem: one is 8.5”, one is 8.75”

If you can make that happen, you'd be a Hiro

^ Nice Broark. Love Ooe. Saw Ryo and Hiro yesterday at S&S Oakland. Picked up a new turkey red bandana (larger than their last run). Will probably give it to my wife as men pushing 70 can look like turkeys wearing red bandanas.

I don’t think it was ever something I loved or hated, but those old discussions are old and that just reinforces my lack of enjoyment for what’s being made now. We’ve seen it done … and probably done better. It’s a tough one though, because every label just want to sell their product and if war denim and that era is the thing they want to push then who am I to complain? After all I make a mean 30s-40s belt 😉

I was lucky enough to grab 2 of the Ooe type 2 and they’re amazing! I can post pics here this weekend.

@Alec Leamas I still have a hard time dropping off my son but more than a year in I am sure it has been the best thing for him. His socialization skills have wildly improved, his imagination has grown in ways it wouldn't have at home, and most of all, he's been able to learn from more people that are not his two parents and while we do our best and contain multitudes, we cannot show him everything. It gets easier, but it never gets easy. Everyone is different, but in general I think it's quite good for the kids and harder for the parents.

Denim Dan goes to Tulip Town 1927 type 1 1937 jeans

@Broark They just had maybe 10 pairs of jeans for sale leftover from Inspiration; most sold in the first few minutes I guess. There were also a couple of the canvas hunting vests on display (not for sale), and one in a lightweight denim that they said they were gonna be starting production on soon (!). Incidentally, Ryo was wearing his 507XX and I asked if they were planning on making more at some point; he said hopefully yeah

Post

Photos of 1942 501XX from Hellers Cafe. Just a random comparison post as l don't have these photos to hand and it takes me ages to fire up the old laptop, and l can't be arsed to keep going back through these pages to find the images. 1937 1st ever pocket flasher, used between 1937 and March 1942 vs 1942 2nd pocket flasher, used between April and December 1942.

In thinking about this, I also consider the brands’ sewing machine operators.. I know that many brands here focus on extremely accurate reproductions, but perhaps this late trend to amplify stitching ‘errors’ is an emergence of the latent artistry of the sewers themselves. I know for myself as an artist, if you put me down in front of a flower and ask me to draw it, I’ll tend to over-emphasize the curviness of the leaves and the shading of the petals over all else. That’s my own deviance from realism that I’ve found emerged subconsciously from my own artistic practice over the years, and it’ll surely be different from that of the next artist who comes in to draw the same scene. I think you can make a strong case that the sewing work done for these brands is more like factory work than like art, but I do wonder if in designing these repros whether the people assigned to come up with the sewing pattern don’t relish the chance for a little extra wonkiness, their creative touch in an industry that for the most part seemed quite a bit more rigid in its techniques. Totally not basing this off anything, just a speculation!

It was FW choice. Sushi doesn’t agree with the ‘wonky’ stitching for much the same reason I do. It did exist, it always had, albeit new factories and therefore new operatives (as Doc rightly says) caused some issues which subsequently settled as those operatives gained experience. Control standards were certainly lower because Levi’s were coining it in with increased output but as with every process a level of equilibrium is established. I just think brands are looking for extreme examples to make their mark. In any event FW didn’t see any reason to ask a high quality factory to produce low quality work so there was only a nod to the ‘wonkiness’ … that from the factory owner.

^^^^Also don't forget only one factory going into WW2 (1942) and at least 3 factories coming out so alot of new and untrained machine operators and a change in the new, more simplified design of the 501xx for skilled/trained levis employees to have to rush through for service industries.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6FcezhuOC9/ Feels like another life...

Union Special / Tender Co. / Hollows / Cane’s / MOTO

On the topic of rocks matching clothes Tilley / Merz / Hollows / Roy / White’s