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Leathercrafting Creations: PYC


OptimaDies

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Got my new machine this week- 1935 Singer 31k. Flies through canvas, this is the first bag I made on it. It's bright red (I'm calling it Nun Red) #10 cotton duck. Bag's got a double bottom and is one of the first non-flat totes I've done, which I'm really happy with.

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Such beast machines. I'm regretting having sold mine.

You're not kidding, the thing is crazy! I have a sewing machine guy in CT that I trust with my machine purchases, and I just said "I want something industrial, affordable, and fun to use" . He knows how I love old stuff, so he found/refurbished a completely original one for me super cheap. I was skeptical, but once I got the speed adjusted and got to know the machine for an hour, I'm so happy with it. Next up is a 29-4 or similar, he's on the hunt for me now. Those two machines will make me a very happy sewer haha.

Thanks for all the kind words everyone! No time for PM's right now, but "Nun" is a sailing term for the red buoy that marks the left size of the channel leaving a harbor. I'm doing a green version that will be "Can Green" to match, the can marks the right side.

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Chromexcel Horsehide with a red stitch and black interior.

I am beyond happy with this wallet, maybe the cleanest thing i have made. I hope the new owner treats is well :)

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The really fun part of making this wallet was i got to try my new burnishing toy! works pretty good!!!

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Chromexcel is a total bitch to burnish, i had to go to a local cobbler, and he showed me his method. worked out pretty well

HH it's bridle on the inside

here is a pic of the burnish, first time doing a contrast color edge. I went to a local shoe supply store and picked up some colored burnishing waxes and sealers.

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There is this guy on Leatherworker that makes some amazing burnishing woods in hard woods, that you can put on your Dremel or whatever tool you use.

Where do you get Chromexcel horsehide from?

Corter, I have an old 29K and as much as I like the fact that it is old, still working (some of the time) and sews quite good, you have to consider that the bobbin is very small on it, so you only use it for small projects (or repairs basically).

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Really? I've never sewn on anything else so I didn't know. I can make an entire bag on a single bobbin (just barely, but it works). Doesn't bother me much, even reloading isn't bad as my machine winds and sews at the same time. I just did a three dozen notebook covers on two bobbins too, I'd never really thought about them being too small.

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Didn't you sew on a 31K?

I was referring to the 29K-series. I tried sewing on an electrical, still vintage, Adler or Dürkopp leather sewing machine, and it was such a pleasure compared to my 29k3. Most models of the 29K-series however are better than my 29K.

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I own a 29-4 and the bobbin is indeed very small. I can do small projects on it. It could probably last a whole bag as long it the bag isn't huge. Just have a couple of bobbins ready to go so you don't have to rethread the machine when you run out.

and as to sewing a bag on it, I bet that's hard unless you have a table built to support the fabric....

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Here's my Singer 29-4. These are called "patchers" because they're designed to repair shoes. The long cylinder is to go up in the toe of a shoe. It's a very cool machine, and I"ll never part with mine, but it isn't as practical as it seems. The bobbin is indeed quite small. In the picture of bobbins, it's the one on the far right. The one on the far left is from my Singer 45 clone, the next one is from my Adler, and the other is a typical singer 15. Mine is also only a needle feed - no walking foot, no bottom feed. This limits its ability to sew over hips and valleys, but if I go very slowly and am careful where I put the needle it does o.k. People say they sew 138 thread on these, but I can't imagine going bigger than 92, especially with the small bobbin - maybe 138 on top and 92 on the bottom. What I'd really like to learn to do is to set up the wax pot and sew linen. The coolest thing about these is the ability to change sewing directions by moving the pressure foot. I found mine in the classifieds for $250.00 in perfect working order.

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Didn't you sew on a 31K?

I was referring to the 29K-series. I tried sewing on an electrical, still vintage, Adler or Dürkopp leather sewing machine, and it was such a pleasure compared to my 29k3. Most models of the 29K-series however are better than my 29K.

oooh yea- sorry, didn't realize what you were saying! thanks for the advice- I'll have to look into other machines

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So I'm finally getting excited about buying a machine. I think my bag experiment went well, but I need a machine of my own to get more practice and prototypes.

I'm looking at Singer 15-91 and 201 models...any thoughts from wiser minds? Anything I should be wary of moving forward?

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I own both the 15-91 and the 201-2. Personally I like the 201-2 better as it's easier to load a bobbin. I use it to sew my denim but find heavy canvas slows it down a bit.

They're both basically the same machine, except the 15-91 actually works better on heavier stuff as the bobbin has less stress on it then the 201, but I've not noticed any real difference.

Both excellent machines. I've been using my 201 so much I might even sell the 15-91 as it just sits. I also have a 306K which you might want to look at, although it takes a different needle but it's probably even more heavy duty than those two but still a home model.

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So I'm finally getting excited about buying a machine. I think my bag experiment went well, but I need a machine of my own to get more practice and prototypes.

I'm looking at Singer 15-91 and 201 models...any thoughts from wiser minds? Anything I should be wary of moving forward?

I've got a Singer 15 with a hand crank. It's a cool little machine, but it's still a home sewing machine that can barely handle size 69 thread and is just a simple drop feed. I recommend an upholstery model.. Singer 111's were the standard for upholstery for years so they're everywhere. I found a beater that still works well for $150.00. They are compound feed - walking foot/needle feed, which means they'll got over and through anything you can put under the pressure foot. They use a 17 needle system which allows you to use heavier threads (up to 138). There are double needle models, cylinder models, post models, etc. Parts are really cheap and every kind of pressure foot you can imagine (zipper, welt, binder, etc.) is available. If you put a servo motor on one, they are super quite and you can go as slow or fast as you want.

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I have a Juki lu 563 walking foot upholstory machine and its awesome. Like the singer that unlucky mentioned, they are very common as they were in there day considered the gold standard. The largest thread I've sewn on it is 277. It works fine if you know how to set the tention right. I don't know if you'd want to go larger than that, that's pretty damned thick. I bought mine for 400, in good condition. I would recommend it to anyone.

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That was a VERY good piece of advice, Unlucky.

Which of your machines takes the heaviest thread?

My Singer 45k clone will do up to 415. Other machines in this class and bigger are the Juki 441 Clones, Singer 7 Clones, The Tippmans, and some of the needle and Awl machines.

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