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Leathercrafting Creations: PYC


OptimaDies

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Got a Gangbang of thread i never use anymore, just sitting on my shelf, its multiple sizes and colors, and about 6 other rolls are not in picture

easily over $150 USD in thread.. if anyone is interested in buying PM me and make a offer.

thought someone on here would get some use out of it. instead of it getting dirty in my work area.

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That looks like a great collection of thread. Have you switched to sinew exclusively?

That made me think, what kind of thread do you guys use?

I have found that thread from Ronso works really well, but I'm sure that there is better stuff out there.

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That looks like a great collection of thread. Have you switched to sinew exclusively?

That made me think, what kind of thread do you guys use?

I have found that thread from Ronso works really well, but I'm sure that there is better stuff out there.

never tried ronso, i have pretty much switched to all sinew now, and have siewa thread for the occasions i do use thread.

thought it would be cool to post some pic of my home work area. picked up a early 60's steel tanker desk for a work station. its got a lot of storage and built to withstand a nuclear blast!

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i am a dye and conditioner junky

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Great pictures! I love pictures of places where people work.

Some quick questions.

Do you burnish the edges with that machine?

Are those your only knife?

Siewa thread - do you mean Seiwa? I have never heard of Siewa...

I only use the drill burnisher with horween leathers that dremil in the photo is for sanding edges. it take to damn long to do it by hand.

on bridle and veg tan, i do it by hand with water,saddle soap, and bees or parafin wax, wood burnishers, then a light coat of tan kote or leather balm. more control over finish.

i only use a break away exacto knife or a utility knife for cutting 5oz and up. its what i started with 4 years ago. so i am used to them.

siewa thread is from japan, its good stuff. but rather expensive.

you can find it on ebay.

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why thank you Mr. Hollows

I like bees wax better, but you cant dye the edges after its applied. with parafin,

you can get a good burnish first, then hit it with dye. thats the only difference really

there is a really good burnishing "bible" pdf on leatherworker.net that is my burnishing method. and by far the best and EASIEST way to get a nice clean edge.

but hollows, your edges are sick like HIV, NO!!!! more like full blown AIDS! i wouldn't change a thing :)

I am loving the wallet you made for me man! The only thing that sucks is all my friends have been saying " dude!! you made that??? thats your best wallet ever!!!" then i get sad and have to explain. you the you made it hahaha! cheers!

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If they're anything you can use, it could be a time saver even if they are dull.

In production, the die will be used to go through multiple layers to get a lot of pieces at once. Still, if you use a mallet on a hard surface, that can really save a lot of time tracing and cutting! Sharpening with a good file is easy enough.

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Do any of you have experience with die cutters?

An old man offered me his old dies if I paid the scrap metal value for them...

But I don't have the machine to use them, but it could be good for future use, maybe.

An old arbor press or a cheap hydraulic shop press works great for clicker dies. I picked up a 1.5 ton at an antique store for 40 bucks. The dies can be very expensive to have made, depending on how complicated they are. If they are the shapes you need, that sounds like a steal.

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An old arbor press or a cheap hydraulic shop press works great for clicker dies. I picked up a 1.5 ton at an antique store for 40 bucks. The dies can be very expensive to have made, depending on how complicated they are. If they are the shapes you need, that sounds like a steal.

unlucky is right, arbor press is great, or weaver sells a hand pump hydraulic one for $300

I looked into getting dies made a few months back. it was going to cost about $2000 for 3 wallet designs. to rich for my blood :)

so hand cut it is for me.

If they're anything you can use, it could be a time saver even if they are dull.

In production, the die will be used to go through multiple layers to get a lot of pieces at once. Still, if you use a mallet on a hard surface, that can really save a lot of time tracing and cutting! Sharpening with a good file is easy enough.

sorry to correct you repeater, but only bad companies do multiple layers

at once. the leather will not get a clean cut when stacked up. dont mean to be a jerk, but just trying to stop misinformation. hope you understand.

but you can totally use a mallet with them. its kinda difficult but can be done.

if anything, if they are cool old school horse saddle dies, they will look cool on your wall or shelf in your workshop (or apartment)

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Horween Chromexcel horsehide wallet.........mmmmm horsehide :)

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He also offered me an old - going antique - press (15-20 ton, I think he said), but it is way too big for my workshop, which is currently the basement of the house that I share with my roommates. I'm not sure that they would like a big press there.

I think you are right, I should at least take a look at the dies... Maybe there are some shapes that I can use for some of the work I normally do.

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I know, I know...

But I feel like a novice compared to you guys with your perfect edges, perfect stitches and shapes. Once I feel slightly better I promise, I'll start posting.

BTW. The dies were for small leather accessories... Like purses, wallets and such. I'll check them out this weekend if possible and let you guys know what happens..

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Okay, you are right, I should be sharing, though the pics are some crappy iPhone pics.

Here is an iPhone case that I made. The first one. It's made of 3 mm veg tan leather (from Germany) and Ronso thread from the US.

After a couple days of wear.

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ic1 by tuntelder, on Flickr

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ic3 by tuntelder, on Flickr

I discovered afterwards, that Corter makes a similar one, but I don't think his is wet shaped.

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Thanks, Ray. You are too kind.

I don't know the brand of the leather. I buy most of my leather from a local shop and there is an old man there, who is very knowledgeable and he does all of their buying.

He didn't tell me what the tannery was called, just that it was tanned in Germany.

I gave it a couple of coats of pure neatsfoot oil to make it more resistant to abrasions, That really brings out that nice whiskey shade.

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Dang, Eric...I am definitely not a tote fan, but yours are looking very nice. The ticking fabric is great, and the little tab on the snap is the sort of detail that makes me go weak in the knees. Well done.

thanks Nick! After so many years of straight leather, I do have to admit I'm excited to be moving into cloth. it's so much easier on the hands

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