Evisu pioneers tailoring with Savile Row store in London

[Blanc0]

Edited by Blanc0 on May 17, 2005 at 07:39 AM

[darknworn]

looks like evisu will be leveraging its name to move into non-denim bespoke clothing. one more quality denim shop lost to the mighty pennies. oh well, time to move on. the land of the rising sun will continue to give birth to other denim freaks.

[Serge d Nimes]

I think this a good direction for evisu and is in line with the core ethic of the brand. It is a shame that evisu sort of trivilized their brand with all the back pocket bling when so many of their designs have been so awesome. I have a lot of their older T-shirts which are batik and made of vintage quality that is quite impressive. On thing that I've always wanted was a pair of no gull jeans, but I've only ever seen one pair. I actually painted the gulls on the one pair I have left black. Anyways, The original Evisu focus was on vintage quality custom made garments of incredible quality, It's nice to see they are still headed in that direction instead of just blinging out Jay Z's ass.

Carpe Denim!

[themdouble]

I second EVERYTHING you just said!

Great thread/post Serge...

-Dub

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Also in agreement. Evisu is the reason I became interested in denim (beyond the basic "are they a nice looking pair of jeans?" question) in the first place. It'll be great to see them get back to their roots.

I wonder if they'll do fully bespoke jeans? It'll be interesting to see what kind of options they offer (different denim weights? dyes? distressing options?) and how much they get away with charging.

[darknworn]

i don't think it's going to work. there are several fashion houses with much deeper roots than evisu and they aren't on the Row. this sounds smack like a marketing move, trying to buy prestige for cheap. bespoke denim? the rest of the world isn't made up of denim freaks like us here, how do you justify paying GBP 500 or more for clothing popularized by the american hip-hop crowd? (read: vulgar). this street vulgarity doesn't necessarily mean bad, just a different style. honestly, i've really enjoyed my old evisu jeans, but i'm not interested in anything else they're now putting out. besides, the market is flooded with fakes. the other important aspect is experience, just because they are capable of producing quality jeans doesn't mean they can make suits and dress shirts. and please, what the heck can you going to do to a "bespoke" t-shirt?

not facts, just an opinion.

Edited by darknworn on May 5, 2005 at 10:49 AM

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Quote: the rest of the world isn't made up of denim freaks like us here, how do you justify paying GBP 500 or more for clothing popularized by the american hip-hop crowd?

People in the UK are generally pretty into high-end fashion / quality streetwear. Labels like Burberry, Armani, Aquascutum, Stone Island, CP Company and Evisu are hugely popular due to their being favoured in terrace culture. (In fact, with the exception of Armani, I don't think any of these labels would be on most people's radars were it not for football casuals.) Evisu has been big with the clubbing crowd going back 10 years in the UK, long before it ever became associated with hip-hop in the US.

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Quote: just because they are capable of producing quality jeans doesn't mean they can make suits and dress shirts.

Actually, now that I think of it Evisu have put out some nicely tailored suits in the past. The fabric and cuts were a little out there (weird kind of swinging 60s meets zoot suit look) but no stranger looking than an Oswald Boateng suit.

I'm more interested in bespoke jeans though

[thedonger]

Excuse the ignorance, but what does "bespoke" mean?

[Yakboy Equals Nurturer]

Bespoke = Custom tailored to fit you exactly. Every part of the process, from the selection and cutting of the material(s) used to the construction of the garment (usually a suit, shirt or shoes) is done according to your specifications. Shit is usually very, very expenisve.

Bespoke is not to be confused with Made to Measure, which sounds like it might be the same thing but is actually more customization of semi-finished items.

[Serge d Nimes]

The Evisu Deluxe line features suits and single needle tailored dress shirts and such. I have a shirt and it is very nice and funky but subtle at the same time. The also have the Evisu Golphu line which is golf clothing. Not your normal golf clothing in any way, very cool stuff. I have like 8 or 9 evisu shirts and 1 pair of jeans. I think the shirts are super cool.

Carpe Denim!

[Caramel]

I am not a big fan of evisu (i'm a girl, their denim don't do well with someone skinny like me), but I find their golf range particularly interesting. A flagship will be nice, but I don't see any prospects of offering a bespoke service when you have sooo many other choices in London.

This is all random.......

[Blanc0]

There was also, at one time, a fishing line from Evisu, although I don't know if that's around any more. I just thought that this was an interesting article, and the bespoke/tailored denim trend is not going to die soon, methinks, esp. with the emergence of other "tailored denim" lines like a ltl btr (Rogan's new line).

[chad]

you can buy evisu golf bags and loads of geriatric items from the store in tokyo.

its great to see old men rocking evisu in japan, and then crazy hip hop kids rocking them on mtv.

[skecr8r]

Serge -> "On thing that I've always wanted was a pair of no gull jeans, but I've only ever seen one pair."

http://www.jeans-young.co.jp/evisu22001np.htm - These. Ever got my PM?

The Evisu line offer multiple different angles on vintage clothing and denim, they run the Yamane Town which offers shoes, suits, the Dowluck fishing collection (http://www.superfishing.com/isseki/dowluck.html), etc:

Evisu Heritage – Premium selvage denim

Evisu Men – Fashion

Evisu Deluxe

Evisu European Edition – Jeans and tees made in Italy

Evisu Genes – Basic denim, tee- og sweatshirts

Evisu Donna – Fashion

Evisu Bags

Evisu Kizzu – Kids stuff

Evisu Shoos

Evisu & Golf - The golf line, excentric stuff, really. You can get Evisu Golf clubs with gulls, flowers and all!

Evisu Paris - Available in Japan only except the highest floor in the Paris store

The EV Line - 100-150$ Evisu Jeans of 'normal' Diesel quality, made in China

Evisu Dowluck - The fishing collection

Evisu YamaneIAX - Armani Exchange lookalike

Evisu Mydo - Regular high-end clothing

A Evisya Tailor - Classical tailor-made clothing (Shirts, suits)

An Evisu restaurant, an evisu bar and an evisu Doll line, replicating Buddy Doll from Lee.

This isn't something new, this is just the classical lack of information getting out from Japan. I'll scan some picures later of Evisu suits, shirts and so forth to show how big it actually is as an regular brand and this is also what the development of the brand is supposed to end with, a regular fashion brand compared to Armani, Versace, Galliano, etc.

Evisu doesn't want to be known as an hiphop brand. I talked too the danish Evisu distributor and I seen much more Evisu clothing than most.

The vision of Yamane is an clothing empire, and his new european shops is simply realizing this vision. Don't hate on Evisu, hate on those ignorants wearing it.

EDIT: Fixed some of the lines.

Denim Fanatismé.

Edited by skecr8r on May 7, 2005 at 03:30 AM

[themdouble]

Huge post skecre8r! Well done...

-Dub

[Serge d Nimes]

Evisu Kizzu – Kids stuff

That sound cute as hell!

One thing I love about evisu is that on a couple of my shirts they don't have evisu written anywhere on the garment, even the tags; actually to think about it, they don't have any words at all! They just have a god head logo instead. I can't think of another brand that would do that.

Carpe Denim!

[skecr8r]

themdouble -> Thanks. My point is informing everybody that Evisu really is a misunderstood brand. I'm off to a De La Soul concert here soon, so I haven't got time to scan the pages, but will do so later. Anyone interested in Evisu information can PM me or contact me through MSN, I'll gladly answer or find out.

Serge ->

Shoes from Kizzu: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=15598&item=4723792676&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

They are cute as hell.

Denim Fanatismé.