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The ‘I’ve lost weight’ Japanese denim sale pt.II (W31-33)


synthi

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***FOREWORD: First up f*ck Levi’s, they’ve just put a royal spanner in my denim plans for 07. Secondly I feel the need to explain that this post has been in the works for a long time. I took all measurements and then over 100 pics last Sunday and they were all resized and touched up in Photoshop in my spare time during the days since. Collating all the links etc. has taken ages too. I’ve worked on the descriptions in Word.

I learnt of Levi’s actions yesterday night and now regret the position I’m in – I now cannot be sure if I can re-buy many of the jeans below. So just to be clear, the sale is for genuine reasons, I’m not trying to cash in on circumstances (which my prices will attest anyway). Maybe this is the last chance for us to own these jeans. . . To avoid potential customs problems I am happy to mark parcels as ‘used underwear’ if you like :D hehe.

A few months ago I put up a thread (http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=15903) selling off half my collection due to dropping a few sizes and, alas, here I am doing it again as a result of having shifted a few more pounds. I am done now though, any thinner and I risk resembling Christian Bale in The Machinist!

And so here’s the rest of my collection, every sale will be ploughed back into new pairs in smaller sizes starting with some 811’s so help a good cause :)

Before we get into things, some info:

- I am in London, UK.

- I’ve sold to SF members before and have a verified premier Paypal account so for added peace of mind can use your credit card if you like.

- The prices below do not include shipping which will be at cost. Alternatively I will happily meet fellow Londoners.

- Please PM with your interest or e-mail me at [email protected]

- Anything remaining shall make it’s way to the Bay of e so be quick!

1. Studio D’Artisan D-1177 21oz denim W29

sdad11771.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/SDA%20D-1177/

Rakuten store link: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/cpoint/483286/1394583/

These jeans and me just aren’t meant to be! These are my third pair and each time the size has beaten me :( The 21oz denim is just so alluring hence me trying in vain to make these work for me. The texture is very smooth to the touch and the Zimbabwean cotton lends a very soft feel, they’re way less cardboardy than lighter denim Sammys.

They have been hot soaked, due to the weight of the denim it doesn’t shrink much at all. Please note that the inseam did shrink to a 34.5†but after a prolonged hang it seems the inseam has crept back to pre soak length – that’s heavyweight denim for ya! I’ll be sad to see these go.

Post soak measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 31.5†/ back of waistband laid flat: 15â€

Inseam: 36.5â€

Front rise: 12.5â€

Rear rise: 15.5â€

Knee: 9.5â€

Hem: 8.5â€

Price $220

2. Studio D’Artisan D-1237 coarse / slubby denim, loose weave W30

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Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/SDA%20D-1237/

Rakuten store link: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/more-net/376332/489134/

It was a Ringring post over on Style Forum that led me to these, in many ways the denim used on these resembles that used on the Warehouse Duckdiggers and PBJ XX-005’s only these are perhaps even slubbier – they feel like sand paper to the touch! Both warp and weft threads are slubby. The orange thread used on the jeans featured a twin thread stitch (including the hem chainstitch) and the sand coloured thread used on the arcuates and J stitch at crotch for example is extra thick.

I ordered these direct from More-Net and they’re still brand new with tags. They advised me that these would shrink 7-9cm in the waist and 5-8cm in length. I suspect however that like the Duckdiggers, the waistband will stretch back to what they measure raw. SDA pockets are my favourites, these are cute and a tad smaller than usual, top to the tip of the bottom of the pocket they measure just over 6.5â€. They are a slim fit.

Raw measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 33†/ back of waistband laid flat: 15.5â€

Inseam: 35â€

Outseam: 46â€

Front rise: 11.5â€

Rear rise: 15â€

Knee: 9.5â€

Hem: 8.5â€

Price: $200

3. Studio D’Artisan XS-25 Xmas 2004 Limited Edition Lee Cowboy tagged W30, actual = 35 (!!)

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Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/SDA%20xs-25/

Store link: http://www.j-fabled.com/shopping_catalog/dartisan_xs-25/dartisan_xs-25.html/

These are enough to make any Lee fan like me drool. The 2004 Xmas limited edition model from SDA is a slim fit low rise and I just love them – you can imagine my joy when xcoldricex managed to track down a pair for me last summer and my horror to find they were tagged incorrectly (something xcoldricex later confirmed from the store they were bought from, Americaya).

They feature left hand denim (as you’d expect being a Lee repro), a very attractive coin pocket with selvedge seam, doughnut buttons, narrow seam purple line selvedge, 2 colour thread chainstitch and half lined rear pockets. As the pics will show, they come boxed with a cute hand written xmas greeting from the SDA team. Whoever gets these will be smitten and I will be *very* sorry to see these go :(

Raw measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 35†/ back of waistband laid flat: 17â€

Inseam: 36â€

Front rise: 10â€

Rear rise: 13.5â€

Knee: 9â€

Hem: 8.3â€

Price: $250

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4. Warehouse 1950’s Duckdiggers tagged W30

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Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/WH%20Duckdigger%201950/

Store link: http://www.j-fabled.com/shopping_catalog/digger_1950xx/digger_1950xx.html

And lots of pics here too: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/ot-emens/117762/317379/

13.76oz extra coarse weave denim featuring slubby warp & weft threads – the texture is just beautiful. It was Ringring’s posts that got me on to these and I can see why he loves them so much! They fit beautifully, quite fitted if 31-32 is your true waist size or a bit relaxed if you wear them on your hips. They’re so blue they almost look black.

These were soaked then dried – these have never been worn. I have recently replaced this pair with a W28 model and can say from experience with those that the denim used on the Duckdiggers is stretchier than your average – these will easily give to 32 or even 33 need be. A very underrated pair of jeans.

Post soak measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 31.3†/ back of waistband laid flat = 15â€

Inseam: 34â€

Front rise: 12â€

Rear rise: 15â€

Crotch to outseam: 11.6â€

Price: $185

5. Sugar Cane ‘Ryukyuai’ Natural Indigo Lee Repros SC40300N tagged W30

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Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/Sugar%20Cane%20Ryukyuai/

Store link: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/460157/597194/659094/

As many will already know, Sugar Cane have 4 flagship models all featuring 14.25oz 50% cotton, 50% sugar millet denim that is dyed using 100% natural indigo and all costing Yen 31,290 (SC40200, SC40300 Ryukyuai’s, SC40400 Hawaii’s & SC40500 Edo Ai). Being a Lee fan, I picked these over the coveted Hawaii’s.

Along with the flattering slim fit, it was the left hand tufty denim – check out the little white balls of cotton! Other attractions are fully lined rear pockets with the Ryukyuai logo (that will make the Red Moon owners’ eyes light up), doughnut buttons, Lee style non scratch hammered rivets (my fave style), crotch rivet and the accompanying drawstring bag and bandanna. Oh and two final things I love: the rear leather tab is indigo dyed (I’ll leave it to you to figure out the cool,effects this will give with wear) and the front pocket lining material is towel like thus much more tactile than the usual boatsail cloth – trust me, hands in your pockets feel so much nicer!

These were soaked till damp then worn till dry. They were not worn with the waistband under duress so they’ll easily stretch to a 32 need be. I CANNOT WAIT to buy these back in my size.

Post soak measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 31.5†/ back of waistband laid flat = 15â€

Inseam: 34â€

Front rise: 12â€

Rear rise: 13.5â€

Crotch to outseam: 12â€

Knee: 9.3â€

Hem: 8.5â€

Price: $270

6. Sugar Cane ‘Edo Ai’ Natural Indigo SC40500N tagged W29

sc405001.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/Sugar%20Cane%20Edo%20Ai/

Rakuten link: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/earthmarket/460157/597194/684474/

(In case you’ve not read the post above, here it is again) As many will already know, Sugar Cane have 4 flagship models all featuring 14.25oz 50% cotton, 50% sugar millet denim that is dyed using 100% natural indigo and all costing Yen 31,290 (SC40200, SC40300 Ryukyuai’s, SC40400 Hawaii’s & SC40500 Edo Ai). The green striated cast won me over ordering these over the Hawaii’s, they’re such a unique colour.

As the Sugar Cane thread has documented, these come up a bit big (my advuce would be to size down one) and fit are somewhere inbetween a fitted and relaxed cut. They fit really flatteringly. They feature fully lined rear pockets (welcome news for Red Moon fans!), hidden rear pocket rivets, dragon printed rear leather patch and front pocket cloths, coin pocket selvedge seam and maybe most impressive of all hand felled internal seams as also featured on the SC40400 Hawaii’s which is super labour intensive. As Ringring has posted, considering this it’s amazing SC can offer these for Yen 31,290. Also included is the drawstring bag and printed bandanna.

These were soaked till damp then worn till dry. They were not worn with the waistband under duress so they’ll easily stretch to a 31 or 32 need be. Comes complete with the original tags too (forgot to picture them). Again, I cannot wait to buy these back in my size.

Post soak measurements:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 30.5†/ back of waistband laid flat = 14.5â€

Inseam: 31.5â€

Front rise: 11â€

Rear rise: 14.5â€

Knee: 9â€

Hem: 8.3â€

Price: $270

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7. Rag & Bone RB6s 30 x 32 One wash, new with tags

rb61.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/RB6s/

Well documented as one of the finest fitting pair of jeans know to denimnerdkind. And the selvedge version (here in the UK at least) is as rare as hens teeth and given the price of the non selvedge stuff in Liberty, I wouldn’t want to guess what these would cost!!

These are one of the pairs that tempts me to eat loads of pies and put the weight back on, they’re so understatedly cool. One for the connoisseurs. They feature resin treated 13-14oz Japanese selvedge denim, coin pocket selvedge, a great shape rear pocket that is half lined, hidden rear pocket rivets, doughnut buttons, cotton lined waistband to control shrinkage / stretch and give a more ‘dress’ feel, branded rivets on both sides, triple needle stitched yolk (with one of the colours being blue, giving the outward illusion of double stitch) and a beautifully chainstitched hem. These are tagged as new.

Measurements as in one wash state:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 32†/ back of waistband laid flat = 15â€

Inseam: 32â€

Front rise: 11â€

Rear rise: 15â€

Knee: 9â€

Hem: 8.5â€

Price: $200

8. Rag & Bone RB11 30 x 32 raw state, new with tags

rb111.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/RB11/

R&B’s slimmest model and one that’s hard to find. Also well documented as one of the finest fitting pair of jeans know to denimnerdkind. They feature raw 13-14oz Japanese selvedge denim, coin pocket selvedge, very cute branded suspender buttons a great shape rear pocket that is half lined, hidden rear pocket rivets, doughnut buttons, cotton lined waistband to control shrinkage / stretch and give a more ‘dress’ feel, rivets branded on both sides, triple needle stitched yolk (with one of the colours being blue, giving the outward illusion of double stitch) and a beautifully chainstitched hem. These are tagged as new.

Measurements as in raw state:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 33†/ back of waistband laid flat = 16â€

Inseam: 31.5â€

Front rise: 10.5â€

Rear rise: 15.5â€

Knee: 9â€

Hem: 8.5â€

Price: $200

9. PRPS Classic rinse W30 one wash, new with tags

prps3.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/PRPS%20classic%20rinse/

These have some sentimental value because they were one of the first pair of selvedge jeans I bought. At the time they fit me amazingly and I still believe they’d fit the slightly larger or more athletic build super flatteringly. The fit to me is very reminiscent of the LVC 1933 501XX model.

They feature a lot of details in an unshowy way, hidden rear pocket rivets, camo pattern front pocket liner cloth, multicolour doughnut buttons, purple line selvedge denim woven in Japan from Zimbabwean cotton, selvedge seam coin pocket, black branded rivets, crotch rivet and a chainstitched hem. They’re from the summer 2005 collection and I still have the Selfridges, London sale receipt, it will be included in the sale. To my knowledge these aren’t made anymore, the current PRPS range in Selfrdges and Harvey Nicholls feature non selvedge denim and retails for way more than these.

Measurements in one wash state:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 33â€

Inseam: 31â€

Front rise: 11.7â€

Rear rise: 15.5â€

Knee: 10.2â€

Hem: 9.7â€

Price: $240

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10. Atelier LaDurance Frontier Pants 30 x 33 new in raw state

aldfrontier1.jpg

Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of these jeans (last two courtesy of ALD): http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/ALD%20Frontier%20pants/

Again, these have a lot of sentimental value because they were the second or third pair of jeans I bought. At the time I had heard of ALD via SF but when I saw the range in person at Selfridges the quality and look just blew me away, ALD are like nothing else and dare I say, are constructed better than anything else I’ve yet seen.

These are the Frontier pants which, before the Prescott’s came along late last year were ALD’s slimmest cut. Like the PRPS’, the fit is similar to the Levi’s 1933 501 but these fit vastly more flatteringly, in fact the fit is amazing.

They feature 14oz Japanese sanforized denim (I got in touch with ALD, they say shrinkage of 2cm in the waist and length should be expected), a cery attractive design of coin pocket with a discreet pen holder design, two tone stitching in orange and ‘straw’ sewn with extreme accuracy everywhere, doughnut buttons, branded rivets, vichy check front pocket cloth, the same cloth lines the whole of the rear pockets (so no wallet blowouts) and maybe my most favourite feature, a 4mm thick very grained rear leather tab. It’s simply beautiful. Oh and I forgot to picture it but these will come with the cure ALD repair kit in a can! I took pics of the jeans with the ALD grained leather belt and it just looks amazing – if you want the belt too, see below :)

Measurements in raw state:

Waist: Around the inside waistband = 33†/ back of waistband laid flat: 16â€

Inseam: 33â€

Front rise: 12.5â€

Rear rise: 15.5â€

Knee: 10.1â€

Hem: 9.2â€

Want to see how well these fade? Check out this entry in the Evolution thread here: http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=259073&postcount=2520

Price: $240

11. Atelier LaDurance grained leather belt, 85cm

Picture courtesy of ALD:

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Please click here to view a mini photo gallery of this belt: http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e311/VT4C/ALD%20grained%20leather%20belt/

Only the Samurai real snakeskin belt that costs more than a pair of their jeans can rival this belt (imo) – it is just beautiful. It’s ALD’s nicest belt and I will 100% be using proceeds from this sale to hunt down an 80cm model.

I had been saving the belt to wear with my Frontier pants so it is absolutely brand new. It is made from thick cowhide (5mm thick!) and is a mixture of smooth grain and suede. The colour is just perfect.

The full length of the belt is 103cm / 40.5†and it has 5 positions as follows:

1: 33â€

2: 34â€

3: 35â€

4: 36â€

5. 37â€

Check my gallery above to see how awesome this belt looks in situ on a pair of jeans. They incidentally look equally badass on the 21oz SDA’s I have for sale.

Price: $135

Phew I’m exhausted. Happy browsing. I’m relying on you all to fund my denim splurge in ’07. :)

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Thanks for the feedback so far guys, even if you're not buying, please do check out the pics. Nothing like a little denim porn to brighten up your day!

Update: the SDA D-1237's are sold to Brozek - congrats on a great pair of jeans for a killer price. The HTML for the SDA xs-25's was a bit messed up but I fixed that now. And lastly TIP, you have a PM as requested ;)

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So I am trying to figure if the Xmas jeans will fit, and I am missing something. Inside the waist band and back laid flat should be the same if you multiply laid flat by 2 no?

For those jeans could I get a measurement of the waist band lined up, so the top of the front meets the top of the back and then measured all the way across as to equal 1/2 circumference?

I realize that circ is circ, but I tried to measure this on my current jeans and am very unskilled.

Cheers,

Matt

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All PM's replied to - thanks for the interest everyone. If I've not replied to you it's because I didn't get your PM or e-mail (nothing from you xcoldricex) so either PM me again or just ask your questions on this thread.

Re. the SDA xs-25's, usually back or waistband laid flat = around the waistband figure +1 but as that's not the case with those (and as Hewsinator asked anyway!) I just measured them again - back of waistband laid flat = 17", back of waistband laid flat with the front of waistband level with back = 17.5" and all the way around the inside of the waistband is still a spot on 35".

They are not marked as sanforized, my guess is that they'll shrink 2" or so in both the waist & the length making these tentatively suitable for a W33-34 with a 34" inseam. Any other questions please fire away :)

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