new project: Slubiest denim

[lowrider]

How about weft slub?

Weft slub you say? How about psychedelic weft slub?

[viv1984viv]

Hahaha, nice one low! You can allways pull out those beginXcane photos!!! I havent seen anyone else posting them. Your right about the 868s being similar to the KMW or shoais, those rogue knots eh! Ive got some the size of peas.... good to play with.

This is such a shot in the dark but id guess the jeans synthi posted are samurai, this is only from the selvedge though, but id be surprised and would like to know which model they are....

Thought id paste my comments from the slubfeind thread at SF...

"I think onis are very slubby from what ive seen, they maintain the irregularities through fading. Check out john11fs on SuFu. Ive said it before but as my PBJs fade the texture smooths down and the slub effect diminishes, when new they were hairy and bobbly-knobbly to touch now they are smooth, head to walls PBJs have faded in a very smooth APC manner from what I can tell ( I own pbjs and APCs btw ).... John11fs onis look slubby post fade, H2W's pbjs not so much. My eternal 868s are nuts, the warp thread triples and quad-drouples in size in an inconsistent manner, ive posted pics on SuFu, these are very very inconsistently woven and are slubby, streaky but not as knobblybobbly as my (new) PBJs- however unlike my PBJ because of the weave I expect this slubby flame effect will hardly decrease with fade and washing. I also own some Canes natural edo ais ( the torquoise ones! ) and Samurais s5000bk both have a small degree of the "slub" but nothing in comparison with Pbj. Let alone the 868s

However if slubby refers to the uneven dying... then the canes win hands down!

This is a really interesting thread, I personally would like to see bumpier fabrics like PBJs rather than smoother yet irregular flamesque weaves like the shoais and 868 etc. But there are more aspects to jeans than slub. And im a slubfeind!"

then i said:

"I wouldn't really discribe my Canes as slubby, they are definately woven with inconsistencies (sp?) and have beautiful striation, but the texture is not as irregular as PBJ or my eternal 868s,...... when my pbjs were new the texture was like a knobbly seer sucker denim - if that makes any sense??

I think you guys think slubby is hairy

Someone said slubby was a measure of the differing saturation of dye

I think slubby is inconsistent weave and texture and a varying size of warp thread."

so yeah....... denim, nice.

[hollaforadolla]

to my understanding, slubbiness on denim is the incoropration of short threads as opposed to removing them as they usually do.

[lowrider]

Hahaha, nice one low! You can allways pull out those beginXcane photos!!! I havent seen anyone else posting them. Your right about the 868s being similar to the KMW or shoais, those rogue knots eh! Ive got some the size of peas.... good to play with.

This is such a shot in the dark but id guess the jeans synthi posted are samurai, this is only from the selvedge though, but id be surprised and would like to know which model they are....

Thought id paste my comments from the slubfeind thread at SF...

"I think onis are very slubby from what ive seen, they maintain the irregularities through fading. Check out john11fs on SuFu. Ive said it before but as my PBJs fade the texture smooths down and the slub effect diminishes, when new they were hairy and bobbly-knobbly to touch now they are smooth, head to walls PBJs have faded in a very smooth APC manner from what I can tell ( I own pbjs and APCs btw ).... John11fs onis look slubby post fade, H2W's pbjs not so much. My eternal 868s are nuts, the warp thread triples and quad-drouples in size in an inconsistent manner, ive posted pics on SuFu, these are very very inconsistently woven and are slubby, streaky but not as knobblybobbly as my (new) PBJs- however unlike my PBJ because of the weave I expect this slubby flame effect will hardly decrease with fade and washing. I also own some Canes natural edo ais ( the torquoise ones! ) and Samurais s5000bk both have a small degree of the "slub" but nothing in comparison with Pbj. Let alone the 868s

However if slubby refers to the uneven dying... then the canes win hands down!

This is a really interesting thread, I personally would like to see bumpier fabrics like PBJs rather than smoother yet irregular flamesque weaves like the shoais and 868 etc. But there are more aspects to jeans than slub. And im a slubfeind!"

then i said:

"I wouldn't really discribe my Canes as slubby, they are definately woven with inconsistencies (sp?) and have beautiful striation, but the texture is not as irregular as PBJ or my eternal 868s,...... when my pbjs were new the texture was like a knobbly seer sucker denim - if that makes any sense??

I think you guys think slubby is hairy

Someone said slubby was a measure of the differing saturation of dye

I think slubby is inconsistent weave and texture and a varying size of warp thread."

so yeah....... denim, nice.

The size of peas???? Damn viv... that's insane! I wanna see a pic of a pea next to a rouge knot - that should be your new avatar!

I've been trying to find out the SuFu definition of slubby. Here's the definition of slubby from Indigo Traveler:

Slub Yarn: A yarn that is spun purposely to look irregular in shape (length and diameter). Usually slub yarns are very regular in repeat and size. Denim made with slub yarns have the benefit of showing white streaks after denim is stonewashed, so it provides a garment with more character and interest.

I don't think it was anything to do wth hairiness or uneven dyeing based on the definition above.

But my SCxBegin wins the hairiness competition in my small collection of denim. I'm sure there's much more hairy denim out there but these are pretty hairy:

What's uneven dyeing? Is that where clump of indigo collect / cake on the denim?

[lowrider]

I wonder if the PBJs smooth out over wearing becuase they are a very loose weave? I heard that PBJs stretch out a lot. Maybe the stretching with wear smooths out the slubs?

My KMWs are both sanforized (so no shrinking hence no "moving" of the weave structure) and a very tight weave (as stated on the Context site and tested by me). I don't think they've stretched out much (if any) in the 14 full days of wear. We'll see if they loose the slub over time but I think my theory of tight vs. loose weave has something to do with whether or not the slubby nature of a jean remains over wear.

Thoughts?

[joey_formal]

those beginxsugarcanes are incredible i love them

[lowrider]

those beginxsugarcanes are incredible i love them

Thanks and they're for sale too... hint hint wink wink nudge nudge...

[wild_whiskey]

I wonder if the PBJs smooth out over wearing becuase they are a very loose weave?

I've heard this as well, though in my experience this isn't necessarily the case. Of course all denim will smooth out and become more compact over time because of you sitting down all the time or being scraped on things, but the slubs on PBJs cause them to create some very cool fading patterns. The texture is reduced, but it still plays into how they fade. Those, along with the Onis and Duckdiggers, are my favorite jeans I've seen worn in because of the unique pattern in the fade.

[viv1984viv]

ok, maybe not quite the size of peas, ive just had another look at em, 3mil is the biggest, but they feel big cos they protrude so much ( said the nun... )

I kinda dont like hairy denim to be honest, rather I enjoy weave inconsistencies.

On the dye - I think the Natural PBJs, AI-001 or something have varying degrees of indigo saturation, I guess this is down to it being dyed by hand maybe, or being natural indigo, the shoais and your KMW appear similar..... Satokibis have striation which is kinda similar, but I can see how people can mistake a uneven dye for an uneven weave ( yknow you only really "SEE" denim once you can feel it and see it in person ).

I almost mentioned how your KMWs look to be a tighter weave than my eternals! Yeah, that theory has something to it, see my PBJ slub has kinda been ironed out on my thighs, but the fabric is still hairy as well as bobbly on my shins. The thighs have stretched alot!

I cant imagine my 868s evening out, the weave is tight but irregular.

I guess the PBJs loose irregular weave is more suseptable to any stretching evening out the irregularities..... a least to some degree.

I might try and do a photo thing of all my jeans to compare the differing slubby fabrics.... Im really no expert on denim, but I do own a bunch of nice jeans and spend too long on rakuten and Superfuture!!

[lowrider]

Hairy denim seems to lighten the colour of the denim because the "hairs" are a white / silver colour. Weird.

I was looking at pics of my SCxBegin and the weft is much more slubby than the warp. The warp is actually pretty smooth but it's patchy in terms of colour (see above). I wonder why?

I'm gonna wait until my SExIHBKs show up then I'll post up shots of my collection in the "what have you got" thread. I plan on having close up comparisons of denim.

[PG2G]

I think when talking about PBJ, its important to differentiate between the XX models and the AI model. There difference in slub is vast. I've had the AI's for over 6 months and they are still slubby as hell. They are less slubby on the thigh than in the lower leg, but I'd expect to see the same from the KMW AWA, Oni Shoai, and the Eternals.

[Ahlvahroe]

these new yens might be a bit over branded but they look slubby as hell. http://item.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/7y7n064c/

[Pandemonium]

wow that shit is crazy!

if they had a pair with only backpocket stitching, these would sell faster than hotcakes (if hotcakes were still so popular).

[john11f]

Oni Blues, nuff said:

[viv1984viv]

god I love those pics john!

heres Eternals 868 VS Pure Blue Japans notorious XX-005

taken with flash by the way.

heres , from the left.... eternal 868, pbj005, sugar canes 40500.

The eternal and canes have been soaked from raw, the pbjs never washed and bought in one wash state, pretty fair then in that respect. With flash.

Heres a rogue knot! Its 3mil across! The warp thread tends to be, on average, bigger on these than my other two jeans. Especially in comparison with with the pbjs, as you maybe able to see in the photo above.

[lowrider]

^^^^Awesome pics viv. Mahalos!

I think the 868 is the slubbiest of the 3 jeans represented in your pics.

[salaami]

^^^^Awesome pics viv. Mahalos!

I think the 868 is the slubbiest of the 3 jeans represented in your pics.

yeah, those 868's have me drooling! the more slubs&rougish warp threads, the better!!

[blm14]

My oni shoais have lots of those little random knots heh

[lowrider]

My oni shoais have lots of those little random knots heh

I'd expect they would. I believe it's the same place that made the Shoai made my AWA.

[lowrider]

Man... I just finally figured out what the fuck the streaks were on my Cartier wallet. It's the damn slubby denim from my KMW AWA!

I've heard of wallet fades on denim but never denim marks on a wallet!

I'll take pics later. Crazy!

[justinbaily21]

Yep, I've got quite a bit of blue all over my wallet (and anything white that I put in my pocket).

[Dick Danger]

I've heard of wallet fades on denim but never denim marks on a wallet!

I guess that means nothing is possible until it happens to you. enh?

[lowrider]

I guess that means nothing is possible until it happens to you. enh?

Awww... you sad and lonely boy. That was such a cry for someone to talk with you or at least recognize your existence.

What would you like to chat about kiddo? We can talk for a bit if you want.

[poly800rock]

people need to wait until the samurai contest is over. the oni's are easily the slubbiest denim i've seen, but they're basically the same as the KMW and/or the Eternals from what i can tell, only seen the oni's in real life.

[PG2G]

You people never give PBJ any credit

How's this for irregular?

How about a thigh with over 6 months of wear?

[lowrider]

You people never give PBJ any credit

How's this for irregular?

How about a thigh with over 6 months of wear?

That's pretty damn slubby. Won't discount PBJs from now on!

[viv1984viv]

Those are the pbj AI001 right? Dang slubby, but I dont think there lighter weight denim is quite the same.

I think its imporatnt to distinguish, the shoias are slubbier than the blues and reds, the 001AIs are slubbier than 005, 003 etc etc.

Its pretty much decided I think that slubbiest is KMW awa, Oni shoias, and the PBJ AI001.... and probably all come from the same guy. 868 equal or close second.

Id like to ask a different question - which companys standard denim is slubbiest?

[justinbaily21]

Oni

PBJ

Samurai / Warehouse

In decreasing order, from my experience.

[salaami]

these new yens might be a bit over branded but they look slubby as hell. http://item.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/7y7n064c/

true, i love the slubbiness, and the denim looks like quality, but im really anal about my selvage. a jap jean w/o selvage is like a falafel w/o cucumber sauce. plus that extra pocket decoration...

[lowrider]

a jap jean w/o selvage is like a falafel w/o cucumber sauce

Wahahahahaha...