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just tighten on the cog as much as you can with a whip, or rotafix it for even more leverage, tighten the locring against it as tight as you can and just look at it after your first few longer/harder rides to make sure they're staying tight.

Torque wrench baby.

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Lacing can make a big difference... for instance radial has a lot of lateral stiffness and is lighter (shorter spokes) but can put a lot of stress on your hubs shouldn't be used for rear wheels... 3 cross is the standard... crows foot is really good but can only really be done on rims/hubs with spoke counts that are a multiple of 6...

anyway, you'll be fine as long as the person building it knows whats up and you don't ride it really hard (off curbs and such)

theres a huge difference for lacing when you are talking about the rear wheel, but front wheel lacing barely matters.

but...

i trick a lot. so thats the thing. wheelies, pop ups, and all that gay shit

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Now I plan on converting this fine 10 speed into fixed, and I plan on just taking parts off of my current track bike, but I don't know what I will need, etc.

The 10 speed is already totally complete, and I was thinking I basically just need to take off the wheels, the crankset, and the chain from the track bike, is there really anything else I need? is it likely these parts will fit? do I need any special tools?

thanks

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im building a wheel soon. tell me if the cons about it

im getting a slotted hub (which for some reason, no bike store around here carries, why?cheap?) and lacing it with 20 bladed spokes, so it would be pretty much an ultra light weight front wheel.

That's what I ride on my daily bike. You'll want at least a semi-aero rim for stiffness... I still feel mine go *boing-boing-boing.*

Not exactly the greatest riding wheel, but if that's your thing, that's your thing.

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why would lacing pattern matter? its all the same tension (a bike store mechanic told me).

rim is 20h alex r450s, hub is an old school hub that most of you haven't heard of ROLF and the spokes, I will know after i measure out the spacings.

Tension is not the same regardless of lacing pattern. Radial pattern will mean the spokes will be loaded up harder than a three cross to get the wheel true. Also drive side spokes will be under greater tension than the non-gear side. This is usually not much of a problem with double fixed hubs as the spoke calculation will make the wheel come out completely even, like a front hub. But for single sided or geared hubs to get the correct dishing you'll be pulling the spokes tighter on the gear side.

And has been mentioned, wheels built for big stress like tandems, tourers, etc are almost invariably built three or even four cross to maximise strength. By contrast a radial is stiff as long as all the force is straight. Bang down a kerb, fine. Bang down a kerb with your weight slightly off centre and it could be a crisp in seconds.

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theres a huge difference for lacing when you are talking about the rear wheel, but front wheel lacing barely matters.

but...

i trick a lot. so thats the thing. wheelies, pop ups, and all that gay shit

So then it's fucking stupid to have such a light built wheel, unless you want to true it all the fucking time.

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as a newbie to fixies, im going to go with a 49cm bianchi pista.

however, it doesn't come with a wheelset and stem.

so i was wondering what would be the cheapest stem and wheelset i can get?

is it possible to coast with this frame?

Get a used stem/wheelset if youre doing it on the cheap. I'm always for higher quality used parts over shitty new ones...

If you want to coast, get "flip flop" hubs that have one side threaded for a fixed cog and locking and the other side you can run a freewheel. I'm guessing that pistas are drilled for front and rear brakes so you should be fine if you want to be able to switch between single speed and fixed.

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not sure what you have already or if you're including a locring/cog/tires/tubes/strips under the label "wheelset", but you should find at least a formula set to a velocity rim. if you get a used stock pista wheelset or somethign along those lines, you'll trash them quickly. i went through mine in just over a year. the bearing retainer fell apart and gouged my front race.

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the seller just said no stem or wheelset so i have no friggin idea.

but i don't want to spend more than 100 on a wheelset

but then again, is this even a good deal....

"2006 Bianchi Pista 49cm

ANSWER PRO TAPER RISER BARS

STOCK SEATPOST

SADDLE

110BCD BULLETPROOF CRANKSET

48T SUGINO CHAINRING

SUGINO BOTTOM BRACKET

but no wheel set and no stem for $250"

i want to keep the whole thing under 350 i suppose..not sure if that's possible.

also the seller said the top tube has some scratches

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the seller just said no stem or wheelset so i have no friggin idea.

but i don't want to spend more than 100 on a wheelset

but then again, is this even a good deal....

"2006 Bianchi Pista 49cm

ANSWER PRO TAPER RISER BARS

STOCK SEATPOST

SADDLE

110BCD BULLETPROOF CRANKSET

48T SUGINO CHAINRING

SUGINO BOTTOM BRACKET

but no wheel set and no stem for $250"

i want to keep the whole thing under 350 i suppose..not sure if that's possible.

also the seller said the top tube has some scratches

If I were you I'd scavenge a road bike and then spend the 350 on a wheelset that will last and maybe a seat or whatever else you need to replace on the bike. When/If you decide you want to ditch the conversion and get a real track frame you can use those wheels and stuff you replaced.

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yeah, not a bad deal. pro tapers are $65 on their own.

you're basically buying the frameset. if the ring and bb are sugino 75, that's another couple $100 parts, but it could be old sugino road parts which are worth not so much. the saddle could be garbage as well, but it could be good enough to ride. he's kind of vague on the other stuff.

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a $150 formula wheelset is going to be as good as a $350 wheelset unless you're buying used phils. anything else that's going to last like you're talking is going to be $500+ for a wheelset.

i still don't understand the buy a shitty road bike that you have to dump $3-500 into to convert it logic. provided the pista is in good shape, its a burly frame and can be resold for about the same if you get sick of it.

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You can get a "shitty" road bike for free, thats why. And the parts you're buying to convert it (wheelset) can be put onto a another bike.

ok. so you get a shitty road bike. most likely you'll at least be buying a rear wheel (around $75 for something decent), a crankset/ring/bb (say, $85 even for bulletproofs, cartridge shimano), cog ($30), lock ring ($8), chain ($20)... so that's already $218, provided you buy it all locally and don't pay shipping and are in the best case trash find scenario with a 700c wheel up front and good parts otherwise that fit you already.

in the end, you still have a conversion that you spent just as much as you would on a better track frame, which is more desireable and resellable when you get sick of your cool new trend.

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do bike shoops accept bargaining?

as in a small discount or even adding on free stuff for you....

dont wanna pay tax!:(

yeah they do. depends on how cool you gett with your local bike shop.

i almost get wholesale price for certain items at my shop. I've gotten a couple free things (rim, shims, spacers...) and a barely used chris king headset for 70. most bike shops double the whole sale price. i've seen the distributer catalog.

like nitto 021s? bike shops get them at 25 a piece -- when bought individually, not group. mark up prices are insane

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typically i see those things go for around $200 in decent shape, so considering the parts you got, it wasn't a screaming deal, but reasonable nonetheless. the rest of the parts will get you rolling a bit cheaper as you look for a wheelset. get on LA fixed, SF fixed and the other regional forums to find a cheep wheelset. if you can't find anything there, go see kyle at orange 20.

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just home frm my LBS and picked up a schwinn madison... its not top of the line but in tersm of fit and feel i really like it. it was that or the raleigh rush hour but the raleigh felt too small for me.

:rolleyes:fixed gear really is different than freewheel... im runnig free wheel right now... but we'll see in the future

mr. invinci get a bike man... i jsut went for test ride... fun as hell... but on my schwinn i need to change the seat... hurts my butt.

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Bike.jpg

this is the bike.

comes with my black chopped Answer riser bars, stock seatpost, red saddle, 48t sugino chainring, bulletproof crankset(everything in photo except for wheelset and stem).

The bike has minor scratches here and there. got it for 220. good deal, eh?

any recommendations of a cheap free/fixed wheelset that some of you gusy can recoomend? hopefully under 100 if possible.

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