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Yang Li F/W 14 - Paris

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this collection is nuts, but the only thing i'll be able to afford is the pack of "yang li" cigs

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this is the most accomplished i've seen from him. I want look 8 right now. RIGHT NOW.

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that trench coat that showed up a few times in different flavors is impossibly brilliant, and then, the menswear comes through and there's just so little there. what happened??

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Yang Li made us literally dream, creating a modern and refined but at the same time wearable collection, where nineties nostalgia and surreal touches came together perfectly. Patches saying ‘dreamers’ has been sewed on jackets for both men’s and women’s and printed on an oversize furry t-shirt, that came to be the manifesto of the whole show.

As his usual state of mind, Yang Li’s message has been conveyed in a discreet manner, with the help of languid colors and poetic shapes and volumes: plum, black, camel and burgundy and exaggerated belts, pleats and hands in pockets, making structured coats folding thickly but perfectly on hips and backs. Surreal influences came to mind seeing the most fanciful outfit of the show: bra plus envelope floor-length skirt in fur, instantly recalling Meret Oppenheim’s dadaist fur teacup. Hair and clothes sharply cut on a side were surreal and modern as well. Anyway, he never forget streets, and his successful aim has been to made that lyrical: nineties grunge baggy trousers cut on the knees were shown in burgundy pony skin and skirts’ raw hems were everywhere. Men’s looks were refined and to be noticed: black ton-sur-ton shearling bombers worn with wide-brimmed hats, fitted slouchy trousers and polished Chelsea boots.

Bruce Springsteen’s ‘Dream Baby Dream’ as the soundtrack for the finale closed the show as its best, and Yang Li’s dream became true and real.













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