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bill

Yang Li S/S 15 - Paris

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there's something here about yang li that gratifies me less and less with each passing season. he's done himself to death and looks bereft of ideas; i can appreciate consistency and recurrence but it must be that while holding on to that personal voice, the journey is somewhere down a different road. and where this is taking us seems the same to me as wherever it was when i first saw his output. it looks like a similar (if not the same mix) of fabrics, the same shapes and if any updates at all, seems really derivative of what rafs been doing at dior (the sleeveless blazers; the asymmetrical cuts that look like they were a part of another dress spliced into other things). and maybe i'm wrong, maybe it hasn't just been raf that has done that because i don't look at everything.

 

i wish he'd stop these slogans, though i don't mind the three-line declaration on the shirt if only it was graphically arranged in a less banal way - centred and in that font? but yeah summarised it is quite self-referentially, a 'bore'.

 

i hope he picks it up, and that he expands on what he can do. what that dantekiko guy said on sz sometime ago about yang li is ringing a little truer now...paraphrased - elements seized from raf, from yohji albeit done in no challenging way and perhaps a little lazy too. for now, this is just something nice to look at and maybe buy but its nothing more. 

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