Custom jeans - raw denim ranking?

[knite]

I'll start by being honest - I'm not a denim head. But what I am is obsessed with quality clothing. I've recently begun working on a new order with one of my tailors, for a pair of custom jeans. I'm super excited, as there aren't many tailors who can do jeans well.

After a bit of research, I'm obviously going selvedge and raw. But here's where I'm stuck? How do I choose a denim fabric? I've done a ton of searching and can't find a comprehensive ranking or comparison of the best available fabrics or mills.

Your help appreciated!

[BrownMetallic]

when you cross the line into the realm of cream of the crop/topnotch quality denim fabrics, lines of distinction are blurred & choices become subjective. it's about personal taste & preference.

bottomline, the "field" tests, documentation, & in-depth discussions had already been done by countless denimhead contributors [from dozens of denim forums accessible @the net] for your perusal. all that is needed is for you to immerse yourself in them & make your own personal choice/s.

Edited December 31, 2012 by BrownMetallic

[knite]

the "field" tests, documentation, & in-depth discussions had already been done by countless denimhead contributors [from dozens of denim forums accessible @the net] for your perusal. all that is needed is for you to immerse yourself in them & make your own personal choice/s.

This is technically true, but not very useful. Yes, I could spend many hours and days reading denim forums and blogs to develop a deep and personal understanding of denim. But why should that be necessary? This kind of response will drive away the vast majority of people. All I'm asking for is a basic guide or comparison of some high quality raw denim fabrics, even if it's as simple as:

- A, great texture, not as durable.

- B, solid all around, best bang for your buck

- C, often considered the best but very overpriced.

- D, overhyped, don't bother.

Your signature reads, "to a denimhead, the journey is the destination." I began this thread by saying I am NOT a denim head (yet!). I'm asking for some collective denimhead wisdom, so that I can enjoy some kick-ass jeans.

Edited December 31, 2012 by knite

[Maynard Friedman]

There is no simple answer. Either take the plunge on something and learn via experience or do some reading around the forum (as brownmetallic has already suggested) and learn from others. There's plenty of useful information about there, just don't expect to be spoonfed.

You need to understand basic concepts such as:

- availability of denim (where do you expect to purchase it?) - this is probably key

- sanforized or shrink-to/fit

- denim weight

- slubby or smooth

Many of these are personal preferences and you're likely to get a range of opinions, none of which may suit you.

EDIT: If you're just trying to source a very small amount of raw denim for 1-2 pairs, then you pretty much have to take what you can get as the choice will be very limited.

Edited December 31, 2012 by Maynard Friedman

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[big truck]

I am most interested in how the tailor can competently produce a pair of jeans. Now, I am no expert at all but surely cutting a pair of jeans is quite different from cutting a pair of (literally tailored) trousers?

And if it is custom made jeans you are after, why not order from people who will do just that and are experts, in addition to having access to different denim fabrics. I'm thinking ooe yofuketen as one example or rising sun as another. Seems easier to me and also meets your brief (save that it is not your tailor doing it?). The only real difference of course is the lack of true tailoring experience in that unless you make your way to japan or LA, you arent going to get measured up.

Also. how much would a tailor charge for a pair of jeans? Is is cost effective?

[BrownMetallic]

This is technically true, but not very useful. Yes, I could spend many hours and days reading denim forums and blogs to develop a deep and personal understanding of denim. But why should that be necessary? This kind of response will drive away the vast majority of people. All I'm asking for is a basic guide or comparison of some high quality raw denim fabrics, even if it's as simple as:

- A, great texture, not as durable.

- B, solid all around, best bang for your buck

- C, often considered the best but very overpriced.

- D, overhyped, don't bother.

Your signature reads, "to a denimhead, the journey is the destination." I began this thread by saying I am NOT a denim head (yet!). I'm asking for some collective denimhead wisdom, so that I can enjoy some kick-ass jeans.

exactly. it's a journey that we take to get [a denim] experience, individually.

'seems you want to take a taxi straight to a conclusion.

my post was not intended to derail your thread from the getgo, but was actually given as an advice on what to do 1st. . then you can ask here at the forum [for particulars] once you narrowed your selction down to specifics & made your decision on what kind of denim interests you.

your question was too vague to answer properly ... like asking for the meaning of life.

btw, your [objective] checklist goes out the window once you realize it's NOT so "cut & dry", so to speak.

eg, to add to pointers given above by members:

_ want it to fade fast or slow

_ on fades, high contrast or vintage

_ w/c indigo dye you prefer, natural, synthetic, combination

_ in what indigo hue, lighter or darker

_ over-dyed, dyed or not dyed weft,

_ in what weave? left hand twill, right hand twill, ringspun, etc

_ etc, etc, etc.

Edited January 1, 2013 by BrownMetallic

[grooveholmes]

This kind of response will drive away the vast majority of people.

This is probably a good thing. In the context of your question, bm's response was apt. Also, the vast majority of people are not looking to make custom jeans and/or quality clothing. Small questions thread. Or start in the denim encyclopedia thread.

[arkoah]

Hey there I founded denim factory here in LA and when I get new clients they ask me all the time what kind of denim do I choose. It is all about what you like and what properties one wants in their jeans. Color, indigo, grey brown, country of origin, etc. Personally I love japanese fabrics, they have a huge range of fashion forward materials and colors. Cone is great for your standard indigo. Also you have to realize where you can get the denim. Selvage is also an amazing material and you can get really creative on where to put the selvage line detail. Here is my one tip when having a tailor make your jeans, make sure they have the proper threat weight, for denim top stitching should be no less than a tex-80. Also ideally they should have a flat felled seam machine and a key hole buttonhole for authentic denim. As well as a kick press to apply the rivets and buttons, if they are hammered in they will have a high fail rate.

[Paul T]

I'll start by being honest - I'm not a denim head. But what I am is obsessed with quality clothing. I've recently begun working on a new order with one of my tailors, for a pair of custom jeans. I'm super excited, as there aren't many tailors who can do jeans well.

After a bit of research, I'm obviously going selvedge and raw. But here's where I'm stuck? How do I choose a denim fabric? I've done a ton of searching and can't find a comprehensive ranking or comparison of the best available fabrics or mills.

Your help appreciated!

browmetallic's post is probably the most helpful you could ask for.

IN particular, you've asked for a "ranking"of denim. THere is no such thing. It's like having a "ranking" of drum kits, or a "ranking" of watches. Some people might say that "ROlex is the best watch" but that statement is as much a product of marketing as anything else. So are many of the other comments. You can't talk about Nihon Menpu fabrics as a whole, or Cone fabrics as a whole, because there is so much variation in all of their output.

If you're getting a pair of jeans made, you must presumably have worn many pairs of jeans already. Which were your favourite? Look through all the threads here on, say, Evis, Full COunt, LVC, Sugar Cane, Denime, and work out the style of denim you find attractive. From there, it will be a question of what is available that's nearest your preference.

Personally, I find statements like "I like Japanese denim" completely meaningless. There are huge similarities between, say, some Nihon Menpu fabric for SDA and Cone (both with subtle slubs and slow crocking). And there are huge differences between, say, most Samurai and most Full Count (lots of slubs and fast crocking, vs fine slubs and slow crocking).

Then, of course, there's the problem that it will be hard to source a specific fabric that's similar to any of these.

[grav.itas]

I'm actually going to make jeans but need to buy selvedge denim first. I want to see nihon menpu denim but can't/don't have access to it, so I'm going to use cone denim.

[oranswell]

This is technically true, but not very useful. Yes, I could spend many hours and days reading denim forums and blogs to develop a deep and personal understanding of denim. But why should that be necessary? This kind of response will drive away the vast majority of people. All I'm asking for is a basic guide or comparison of some high quality raw denim fabrics, even if it's as simple as:

- A, great texture, not as durable.

- B, solid all around, best bang for your buck

- C, often considered the best but very overpriced.

- D, overhyped, don't bother.

Your signature reads, "to a denimhead, the journey is the destination." I began this thread by saying I am NOT a denim head (yet!). I'm asking for some collective denimhead wisdom, so that I can enjoy some kick-ass jeans.

No more than any other forum, it is considered impolite to wade in and ask for the accumulated knowledge of the mebers without contributing. However as someone with an interest in bespoke menswear and some experience of it and sourcing denim I will try to help you as best I can.

Firstly although it is likely your tailor will have an industrial machine capable of sewing through layers of denim, s/he is unlikely to have a chainstitch machine that produces the type of stitch as factory made machines. A chainstitch is actually inferior in terms of strength compared to a lockstitch machine but it is associated with denim very strongly.

Secondly although jeans and selvedge denim jeans are different to tailored trousers in terms of pocket placing and finishing the differences are not that radical. The major departure to a tailor will be that the outseam will have to be straight in order to keep the selvedge, this means all the shaping has to be done on the inseam and the last few inches towards the top (pocket bags).

Thirdly as you're working on a cut make and trim basis I presume, you will want only a small amount of cloth i.e. 3metres is a standard length for mens trousers in a narrow width cloth (i.e. selvedge denim). Your best bet will be cloth jobbers such as Premium Denim Outlet in LA http://www.premiumdenimoutlet.com/ as well as Pacific Blue Denim http://pacificbluedenims.com/index.php, and you will likely pay an invoice charge for a small order (under 50 metres).

I'm actually going to make jeans but need to buy selvedge denim first. I want to see nihon menpu denim but can't/don't have access to it, so I'm going to use cone denim.

Pacific Blue Denim have denim from Nihon Menpu listed.

[viapiana]

Hope I don't sound obnoxious here.... But tailoring raw selvage denim is exactly what I do. If I can help in any way please let me know.

Basically I have a selection of material, buttons, rivets, leather patches, and thread that you can choose from to make your jeans.

www.viapiana.ca