Denim repair in Tokyo?

[yhama]

I will be in Tokyo in November and was wondering if there are any places that can repair the left front pocket of my Kojima jeans. The pocket lining is ripped right where it is attached so everything falls through my pant leg. I live in Shanghai, and nobody here will even attempt to repair this.

Thanks.

[Warakia]

You asked the guys at Take 5? They directed me to a tailor in the neighborhood for an alteration job a while ago. They have a business card with his address at the shop. And else I'm positive they'll know something to help you.

[coleslawyum]

Used to be Denim Works in Shibuya, but I think he's moving to Hiroshima.

[coleslawyum]

I remember this old post from chicken who translated an interview from Lightning Magazine.

Tips on Maintenance

Denim Works, located in Shibuya, is a shop that’s trusted by serious denim collectors. They do everything from repairs and hemming with chain stitches, customizations such as downsizing the waist size and modifying the silhouette, production of original jeans and made-to-order jeans. It’s an incredible shop for denim lovers looking for highly skilled help and practical advice.

The owner of Denim Works, Takashi Fukuda, who has done countless numbers of denim repairs shares his maintenance knowledge here.

1. Is it true that you shouldn’t wash your jeans to get beautiful contrasts?

t is true if you are looking just for contrasts. But as you wear your jeans, sweat and grease gets inside the fabric, making it soggier and weaker against abrasion. In other words, your denim becomes prone to rip apart. So if you want your denim to last you should wash your denim often. During winter, wash your denim when it starts feeling a little damp.

2. Is it true that it’s better to turn your jeans inside-out when you wash them?

If you read fashion magazines and stuff, they’ll say things like, “Dry your jeans inside-out. If not your denim will get sunburned and will lose its color.†But when it comes to vintage denim, it’s a different story. Quite often, vintage jeans will have threads that have weakened over time. If you turn the jeans inside-out, the thread can get caught in the washing machine, causing it to tear apart. If possible, put your jeans, without turning it inside-out, inside a net before throwing it into a washing machine, then wash softly. Because it’s a precious article, one might think of washing it slowly with hand… but that’s going a bit too overboard. When you’re drying it, don’t worry about things like sunburns. For example, if you’re wearing your jeans during summer, you’re exposing it in the sun the whole time, yet it’s never a problem. However, if you have just purchased a new denim, you would want to wash your jeans two to three times inside-out to get rid of starch.

3. Will your fabric tighten up and become more durable if you dry your denim in a dryer?

It’s not like it’s absolutely bad, but if you use a dryer, your fabric will shrink radically and the denim’s surface will become soft. If you prefer your denim to be somewhat rigid, it’s much better to dry it naturally in the sun. It will dry crisply and it also feels good to wear something that has been sitting in the sun. Drying naturally is the best.

4. Is it better to avoid detergent with bleach?

Bleach, not only will turn your whole jeans white, but will also hurt its fabric. You probably don’t have to worry about detergents with just tiny amount of bleach in it. But for those who really care, it’s probably better to use denim detergents specifically designed to effectively remove grease and stains. I’ve actually heard of people who use spring water to wash their denims to avoid small amount of chlorine that’s inside tap water, but I wouldn’t worry about such a small amount of chlorine.

5. I’ve heard I shouldn’t use any detergent, but is it okay to use it when I feel like my jeans are getting too dirty?

While ago during vintage denim craze, it was said that it’s cool to not wash your jeans. There was a time when people celebrated the idea of not washing and respected people who claimed “I haven’t washed my jeans for one whole year.†But that’s just a myth and it’s better to wash your jeans often. Cellulose inside sweat and grease damages the fabric. If you let your jeans go dirty for a while, it could cause your denim to tear suddenly. If you wash often, your fabric can stay in a good shape and will result in longevity.

6. If my denim rips, can I repair it myself?

If you don’t screw up basic procedures, you can repair simple tears in places like the knee and the crotch. I even recommend this to customers who visit my shop. For patching, you can buy the denim from fabric stores or get them from jeans you’ve stopped wearing. Then all you need to do is just carefully sew using a sewing machine. If you sew along the direction of your denim’s weave pattern, it’ll be hard to notice the patch. Another way to do it is to use a fabric from your favorite shirt you can’t wear anymore and patch your jeans up in a trendy fashion. Things like that could deepen your affection toward your jeans.

7. Take preventative measures before damage worsens. (Extra)

I’ll never say things like “Store it in the drawers because it’s vintage!†Vintage jeans are cool when they are worn. But of course, jeans that have been worn for years have denim fabric and threads that have become fragile. Especially cotton yarns are very prone to tears. Although you can’t change this fact, it’s better to take preventative measures like patching your denim early before they start to rip apart. Other than that, you can maintain your denim by washing and drying in ways that won’t harm the fabric as explained in this page.To summarise, if you want high contrast fades, wash as little as possible. At the end of the day, jeans are meant to be thrashed and wear and wash them as you deemed fit.