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Blue in Green N-01 jeans


cheapmuthafukr

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jeans look to be A-1 spec as we could all naturally assume would be the case with gordon (aka da man). i must say i really love the extra thick inseam chainstitch. maybe that'll keep you candyasses from complaining about the cotton thread;). makes it hard to choose between these and a pair of roys. gordon is VA's finest, so it's a tough call...

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Salaam- i laid my own two eyes and ten fingers on these jeans yesterday. you already know that these are top-notch! some interesting tidbits. . .

Gordon told me that he didn't really have much input in the cut or style of the jeans. he did choose the color of the stitching. basically, he likes the factory (didn't say which one) but they're very popular factory used in a few popular domestic Japanese brands. they are know for very precise high quality sewing or stitching. i've always assumed that the popular Japanese brands aim for perfection in stitching details. NOT true. for example, look at the back pocket stitching. are they perfectly aligned? does the space between the bottom layer stitch and the top layer stitch around the pocket remain the same or does it vary a little? or does it look a little uneven?

he showed me that some companies like Eternal and WH actually like to have variances in the eveness of the stitching. they actually like the organic look of a uneven line in the stitching. BIG n-01 is VERY straight and even. the space between the stitching is extremely even.

i guess pic's would be a better way of showing what i'm talking about. you prob already know this stuff. but it's still good stuff to know. get up wit me later.. i gotta go...

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k. im back. . . with a few good German beers in me! went to http://www.zeppelinhall.com/ but didn't have a camera. . .

Gordon let the factory chose the cut. that was their demand. He said the next batch from them (the factory) will be COMPLETELY designed from him and his shop. BUT and this is a very BIG BUT. . .he was (as it seemed to me) VERY HAPPY with the way things turned out. . .except the patch. (which has already been stated)

MY opinion. . . NOBODY really see's the patch. it's cool for us denimnerds, but fact is, average joe doesn't see it AND def doesn't care. So, in conclusion, IF I hadn't just bought the Eternal Contest jeans and Sarah (the ex-FH girl) new PBJ's!!! I mos def would have copped a pair of these. ( i not gonna bring ROY's into this cause as of now you can't buy) so. . .

go and buy now.

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damn so if what you're saying is true, it would mean that the next run could possibly feature a better patch but COULD be a totally different cut. true that nobody actually really sees the patch but damn we're no average joes and im pretty sure that the customers who shop with BiG aren't your typical dudes either.

having said that, i would really love to own a pair of these if i also didn't bought the eternal contest jeans. but you never know what can happen a few months down the road. it all really depends on how the next batch looks like.. for me at least.

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yeah i couldnt resist any longer, just bought a pair! decided that a fucking patch wont stand in the way of my happiness, haha. the eternal patch is pretty ugly as well, and it hasnt stopped me from enjoying the shit out of em. went with a size 30 (=31" after soak) which is tts.

im psyched!

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What's the consensus on a good patch?? 2 moving objects pulling apart a pair of jeans? 2 samurais holding swords against each other?

I'm confused.....

yeah i couldnt resist any longer, just bought a pair! decided that a fucking patch wont stand in the way of my happiness, haha. the eternal patch is pretty ugly as well, and it hasnt stopped me from enjoying the shit out of em. went with a size 30 (=31" after soak) which is tts.

im psyched!

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Gordon told me that he didn't really have much input in the cut or style of the jeans. he did choose the color of the stitching. basically, he likes the factory (didn't say which one) but they're very popular factory used in a few popular domestic Japanese brands. they are know for very precise high quality sewing or stitching. i've always assumed that the popular Japanese brands aim for perfection in stitching details. NOT true. for example, look at the back pocket stitching. are they perfectly aligned? does the space between the bottom layer stitch and the top layer stitch around the pocket remain the same or does it vary a little? or does it look a little uneven?

he showed me that some companies like Eternal and WH actually like to have variances in the eveness of the stitching. they actually like the organic look of a uneven line in the stitching. BIG n-01 is VERY straight and even. the space between the stitching is extremely even.

Funny that you should mention the stitching. Although i haven't handled a pair like you have, when I saw cheap;s photo of the back pocket my first thought was "that stitching looks a little sloppy".

some detail shots.

dscf6700.jpg

Look at the bottom corners. The stitching isn't continuous around the corner, and doesn't look symmetrical at the top around the hidden rivets. Maybe that's a stylistic thing to give the back pockets "character", but that's a turnoff for me.

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The Japanese term "wabi-sabi" comes to mind. I see the appeal of having jeans look more like they're made by a human rather than a machine, especially in the price range that we're all used to paying. Personal preference, I guess. I'd be hard pressed to call that stitching sloppy. It's just less than perfect, which to my eyes adds the handmade look.

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Cheep's round ass must have stretched the pockets. Pocket stretching is pretty normal imo and the pockets lose their symmetry after stretching

strange. . .that's not what I saw at the shop. stitching was very symmetrical and clean. but- like everyinch said, it's a man made garment, it's not going to be perfect every time. all in all, really nice denim and features. my thumbs up again.
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Look at the bottom corners. The stitching isn't continuous around the corner, and doesn't look symmetrical at the top around the hidden rivets. Maybe that's a stylistic thing to give the back pockets "character", but that's a turnoff for me.

I don't think so. They look pretty similar to the detail pictures on the BiG website. I can't recall the details from my experience seeing them in person (didn't check to see symmetry etc) but I think it's a safe bet that the un-symmetry is not due to pocket stretch.

It's still a fantastic pair though.

Also dawei, to elaborate on your patch comment since I sensed from [edit: some] sarcasm:

It's just consumerist thinking to point out a detail that you may or may not like. For example, a simple criteria many members here look at is weight of denim. (light 12oz vs heavy 24oz, for one) It's natural that some people might look at the leather patch as a point of detail. In this case, I'm guessing people are put off by a) thickness of patch, and B) lack of detail on patch. Please keep in mind that when I'm stating my assumption for people's displeasure for the patch, I am not speaking for myself. After seeing the jeans in person I think it's a very legit sell at that price point.

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Hm.... I think i'm on to it!!

I know for one, that hinoya owns the Oni line of denim.... as well as their own in house burgus plus line.... Both are extremely similar to the N-01... in terms of construction. I cant spot a difference in terms of the denim between hinoya's 770 and the N-01

i'm pretty certain it's same factory. But, dont take my word for it.... I just like to play detective

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What's the consensus on a good patch?? 2 moving objects pulling apart a pair of jeans? 2 samurais holding swords against each other?

I'm betting that there's no consensus on what makes a patch good, but for me, 2 moving objects pulling apart a pair of jeans is the worst possible choice. I want a patch that shows some willingness to deviate from the Levis standard. With that said, it's probably no surprise that I like patches like the ones from Skull (unquestionably the best), Eternal, Momotaro and Oni. I also dig the minimalism of the patches from Raleigh Denim.

Functionally, I like heavier leather patches that are sewn down only at the top and bottom, so that they can operate as additional belt loops, and Iron Heart sets the standard on this score. I don't really care for specialty leather, like deer, goat, horse, python, baby unicorn, whatever.

The N-01 patches are just kinda dull, but I'm sure that Gordon will fix that for the next batch. He knows what he's doing. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a pair, if I weren't completely tapped out at the moment.

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ive never owned a pair of jeans made from pima cotton before and im not really "in" to cotton either, so i dont know what other jeans are made from the same cotton. what kind of fading characteristics comes from pima cotton ? do they fade fast, slow, regular, irregular and so on.

still havent received my jeans, getting impatient!

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  • 2 weeks later...

the jeans arrived two days ago and today they were finally ready after two hot soaks. the fit is indeed great and i can imagine these would look good on a lot of ppl; flattering cut. the waist might end up just a little bit too big in the future though, or im just trying to wear em too high..

sry for not having any awesome pics or measurements, but at least im very happy with them!

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