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Evisu is still loved!


benzak

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Depends on what kind of belt you're after Barty - there are some reduced belts on the Evisu International website that might float your boat...I just use an old Goldschmied that I picked up at TK Maxx a while ago, and sometimes a fabric adidas belt that I've had for years...

Cheers for the comments and rep as well, lads... :)

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hey ctb, did u size up, down or true to waist on ur 2001s?

I've slimmed down since I got those...they're tagged 36 but an actual 33-34, depending on how recently they've been washed.

When I started wearing them, they were true to my actual size and the fit was like this (taken at around three or four months, I think):

copyofdsc01100fv7.jpg

copyofdsc01100fv7.jpg

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I tend to wear the 2001s and whatever is flavour of the week at that particular time...

The Lazy S get worn when I've been eating heavily haha, and the 2101s on slimmer weeks...Canes and 2000s are worn when the occasion suits.

I'm the same with trainers, too...I'll wear a pair to death for a while then go and rediscover an old pair that I've not worn for a while and switch to them...

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the vegetable indigo denim

this pair of evisu deluxe jeans is constructed using a unique japanese selvage denim woven for evisu deluxe in okayama prefecture, japan, by artisan denim weavers kuroki. the long staple cotten yarn has been rope-dyed with natural vegetable indigo( rather than standard synthetic indigo dye). Vegetable indigo, besides being extra-authentic (natural indigo has hardly been used since the development of synthetic indigo in 1897!) gives an even more unique patina with wear, as the dye is easily lost from the cotton fibres. dying with vegetable indigo requires more dips of the rope of cotten into the dye vat, but the result is a depth of colour and richness of worn patina which cannot be reproduced with standard industrial dying, evisu deluxe natural vegetable indigo dyed denim is woven with a discreet white selvage.

so they will fade fast?

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part 2

evisu deluxe jeans are not made on a production line, but each pair is made from start to finish by a single machinist. There is no overlocking, twin-needle stitching, fell stitching or chain-stitching anywhere on these jeans (even the beltloops are handmade using three folds and three stitch lines, and fully lined with deluxe purple cotten drill!). instead, every seam is constructed from serveral single-needle stitch lines requiring many folds and extreme skill and concentration. the hip pockets are constructed in a bluff seam- this means each pocket is sewn from the inside, before being topstitched. bluff pockets are one of the most difficult sewing procedures to perform neatly, and require many years experience, but they give the cleanest, most elegantly finished jeans pocket in the world, look for the extra line of real indigo thread visible inside the jeans behind the hip pocket.

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intriguing, cause i though veggie/natural indigo makes for slower fading, but this says the opposite. it mentions the many dips it takes for natural indigo, but i thought this was the factor that made nat.indigo jeans fade(usually) so slow. i still don't know what to make from this...i also wonder why evisu mentions ''long-staple'' cotton, but they never mention the origin(memphis/texas/egypt/zimbabwe,etc.). i'm wondering how well the seams will hold up, being that there is no chain-stitching...

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intriguing, cause i though veggie/natural indigo makes for slower fading, but this says the opposite. it mentions the many dips it takes for natural indigo, but i thought this was the factor that made nat.indigo jeans fade(usually) so slow. i still don't know what to make from this...i also wonder why evisu mentions ''long-staple'' cotton, but they never mention the origin(memphis/texas/egypt/zimbabwe,etc.). i'm wondering how well the seams will hold up, being that there is no chain-stitching...

Yeah, my understanding was/is that natural indigo only seems to fade slower because it tends to be used in 'top drawer' jeans, i.e. deluxe and flagship styles.

These styles tend to take the artisanal process to extremes, including (normally) more dips than usual. I remember reading somewhere (on here, probably) that there are only so many times that the denim can be dipped though; any dips beyond that are just so the manufacturer can try and prove that their cock is biggest etc.

Natural indigo tends to have more impurities in it than manufactured, 'pure' indigo, hence the "even more unique patina" claimed by Evisu, am I right?

I've only ever seen one pair of well-worn Deluxe jeans (Rodeo Bill's on here and the blog) so can't comment on the patina, and I'm not even sure if his were natural indigo...

I'm not sure that the lack of chainstitching would be a problem, as I doubt that anyone who's spent the full price on a pair of Ikeda (or any other Deluxe jeans) would be inclined to wear them as hard as some of us would wear ours. They're more like 'dress jeans' to me.

As for the cotton, well, I know fuck all so can't comment. :)

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anyone know where the post that explained the evisu cuts and #'s is?

this one?

i retain too much useless knowledge, just searched 'the yucks' and blaow got it.

2001 - evisu basic cut, button fly, hidden rivet, gull back pocket

2002 - same as 2001, but with zipper fly

2000 - a little more straight silhouette compared to 2001

2000Z - 2000 cut with zipper fly

2004 - buckleback, slightly looser than 2001

2005 - slim straight, even slimmer than 2000, zipper fly

2017 - boot-cut, zipper fly

2101 - lee styled back pocket, but with white paint mark. left hand twill (!)

yamane deluxe - wrangler styled back pocket, very slubby denim with lots of neps.

the paris line

epc1459 - the reversible one

epc1468 - snake and gull back pockets

es04ew - low rise, white gull back pocket, buckle

epc1535 - 3 or 4 kinds of denim materials in one pair of jeans

epc1458 - the so-called spiral cut

epc1544 - the classic pants

epc1461 - large daikoku (daicock?) paint at the back, side pockets on both knees

epc1460 - patched daikoku at the back

epc1457 - the 21 pockets (yucks)

epc1447 - plain back pockets, slight flared bootcut

epc1463 - crane and gull back pockets

So are the 2005 the slimmest japanese evisu jeans ? I have a pair of no.2 lot 2000 size 31. They are good in the waist but I would like them to be thinner overall in the legs and thighs. Are the 2005 significantly slimmer, or should I just get my current pair tailored ?

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well i will put these at the top of the rotation, also got blue ankles from these its hard to take them off! I have to use two hands for one leg as they taper so much but they should be fun, water wasn't blue really, well keep you updated....

how much has yours shrunk? I dread soaking or washing mine.

I need to stay away from the beers n kebabs!

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