Raleigh Denim

[erk]

this apparently is still going to happen. just hang in there.

[Noodle36]

I'm hanging in.

[Noodle36]

With the Ande Whall contest on hold, the 66's are my only jeans to look forward to. My bday is in March and I really wanted to treat myself to two pairs of special jeans. I'm keeping hope alive!!

[grit]

Didn't expect to buy any clothes today, but I'm visiting SF and stopped into Unionmade. Came home with a pair of Raleigh Original Fit. I'm 5'10", 140 lbs. These are tagged 31. They do smell a little special, I kinda like it though.

[grooveholmes]

Nice pickup and good fit!

[Noodle36]

So I recently picked up a pair of Iron Hearts through SESF. A friend of mine is heading to Japan and I have asked him to look for a pair of Samurai's...problem is, Jeans budget is getting low and I really would like the 66's. Any word on when this is going to happen? If in the next little while, I can wait and cancel the Samurai's. If not for some time should have enough back in the jeans budget for the 66's.

Quite the dilemna?

[erk]

So I recently picked up a pair of Iron Hearts through SESF. A friend of mine is heading to Japan and I have asked him to look for a pair of Samurai's...problem is, Jeans budget is getting low and I really would like the 66's. Any word on when this is going to happen? If in the next little while, I can wait and cancel the Samurai's. If not for some time should have enough back in the jeans budget for the 66's.

Quite the dilemna?

man, I wouldn't be waiting around on this. I haven't heard anything from victor about it in a while. I'd say go for the samurais.

[grooveholmes]

+1. I wouldn't wait around for speculative jeans. I'm sure these'll happen someday, but sounds to me they're too busy. Good for them, but sucks for us.

[Noodle36]

Thanks Erk & Groove. I just met with my friend (or denim dealer) and gave him my particulars for the Samurai's.

On a Raleigh note. I will be posting some evo pics of my Raleighs in the next couple of days. Will need some opinions on the crotch as I think if i leave them any longer without at least a soak it will develop into a blowout.

[robbie]

That denim looks nuts. Nice lookin jeans. Not really my bag, but they look well put together.

Pretty much this.

I really admire their operation, and their objectives. The notion of a product made completely in NC of NC goods is very much up my alley. The cuts and detailing aren't my cuppa, but again what they are doing and how they are doing it is awesome.

[grooveholmes]

Robbie, was there a particular model you tried on that you didn't like? Just curious. If you can get over the details you dont like, I'd give em another chance. They've got several cuts available. I really dig the regular straight cut, but I shoulda sized down 1. Since they're well worn and I had no plans to sell em, I had them tapered a bit by Schaeffers. It's a bit more of a carrot-shape. I lost some weight, too, so now I've got a slightly looser fit with a slight taper + black seed cotton = super comfortable pair to mess around town with.

When I visited RD way back in the day, I was introduced to a small, older lady on their staff who was one of the first Levis patternmakers. A bold claim, to be sure, but Im also sure there's little reason for them to doubt. Judging from what I've seen, and I'm no expert, they have a wealth of experience at their disposal-- there's were all kinds of patterns and such all strewn over the place.

With regard to details, almost 100% of the materials are sourced in state. I can't quite remember, but I think some of the hardware is sometimes shipped in from Georgia? I like the plain buttons and the red chainstitch. The back pockets are something to get used to, for sure.

[robotbox]

I've been thinking about pulling the trigger on the original fit with dyed weft, but those back pockets are definitely something I'd have to get used to. If they were more traditional, I wouldn't even have to think about it. Being raised in NC, I really want to support them... but those pockets!

I still may do it though. It's either that or wait for new Roys or 3Sixteens, but I'm fairly impatient.

Can anyone comment on the rise of the original fit? I've seen them described as "Mid Rise" but the back rise measurements I've seen are more in line with Ande Whall Grifters, which I would definitely consider low-rise.

[chubby]

I went into their store in raleigh while I was back home. Was thoroughly unimpressed. Which sucks because I was rooting for them. The store was "open" but no one was there, no clerk, nothing. Just people in the back factory/design portion of the building. Also the denim was pretty weak sauce. WAY too many varieties, cuts, and washes, usually w/tacky details like exposed selvedge coin pockets. All the denim was very lightweight, and maybe 20% of the stock was actually raw. Honestly the only things that held my attention in the store were from other companies they stocked like Farm Tactics.

They really seem to be an 'experimental' company doing anything and everything w/college design students in the back trying to be 'different' by creating weird washes, cuts, creases, etc. I'm sure the majority of their employees in the back were young NC state students.

overall, a big "Meh."

[kimhwan92]

I live about 15 mins away from RD factory/store.u They are the reason why I started to wear denims. Im wearing their Alexander work fit right now and they are very comfortable, and thats probably the reason why I decided to disregard the shape of its back pockets. I have huge thighs and even though ive lost some mass around them over the last 4 months of wears they are still very comfortable. Im glad i went into their store to try them on.

[grooveholmes]

Can't speak for their distressed stuff but I have no problem with their raw stuff. They have an incredible relationship with Cone; they use denim from the White Oak Plant. Too bad you don't like their stuff, man.

[lance]

Spoke to the folks at Raleigh Denim today. They have made a pair of pants using the indigo dyed canvas from Cone with slash pockets rather than the previous 5 pocket style. Same cut, just pockets are different. Looking nice, ordered a pair, will post pics.

[lance]

Here's a pic of the indigo dyed canvas pant with on seam pockets - not jeans, but incredible cloth and nice cut.

[grooveholmes]

Must spread, lance, but they look like a good fit. Gonna cuff em? Are they selvedge?

[lance]

^ Thanks, grooveholmes, not mine, a Raleigh Denim pic. Mine are wallowing in JAX at the moment; will arrive Monday. More then....

[HoustonChris]

Those do look nice. I suspect they'll be cut too thin for me, but that's my problem, not theirs. Looking forward to more pics when you get them.

[Noodle36]

Just saw the indigo canvas at my Local Raleigh dealer. Love the slash and coin pocket. Have him checking on a 38w for me. Thin fit sized down with a fat ass does not work.

[Noodle36]

So yah think Raleigh will release a Scotty wash??? Can't believe my wife had me watch that!!!

[killerb3ar]

^ Thanks, grooveholmes, not mine, a Raleigh Denim pic. Mine are wallowing in JAX at the moment; will arrive Monday. More then....

Lance, any updates on your pair? Would def. like to see some pics, etc.

[lance]

Hey killerb3ar,

I have not yet started to wear them. Summer in FL and they are tight jeans. I'll post pics when I do. If you are thinking about buying a pair, do not hesitate, the canvas is beautiful and one detail in particular is really cool. They added a fifth pocket but at a slant inside the right front pocket; you can see just the rivet. It's a really interesting detail that doesn't jump out at you; something that 45RPM does so well.

[grooveholmes]

Barneys has a few models on sale. the thin indigo canvas on sale for a steal at $169 plus free shipping. I debated myself for 20 minutes to splurge and then looked at the 15 pairs in my closet. I had to pass...

f*ck me.

http://www.barneys.com/Denim/DENIM09,default,sc.html?prefn1=designer&prefv1=Raleigh%20Denim

[Noodle36]

What's with Raleigh not making a 38 w in the thin indigo canvas? I just found out from my local store! Why????? Whhhhhhyyyyyy?

They were going to be my clandestine work pant. "jeans?...nooooo, these have slash pockets, there like a chino". Now I won't ever be in a position to say any of this

[lance]

Noodle36, good excuse to loose a few pounds:)

[dkatz]

Here's a pic of the indigo dyed canvas pant with on seam pockets - not jeans, but incredible cloth and nice cut.

I'd love some more info on these...

[grooveholmes]

@noodle: have you tried emailing Victor or Sarah directly? You may not get a response quickly (fair warning), but it's worth a shot. Some of the nicest people you'll ever meet.

When reading about the Tenue de Nimes indigo canvas collab jean a few months back, I chanced upon this video. Cool to see the process-- I think they've added staff since I visited at their old, smaller space in early 2010.

http://vimeo.com/18283217

Aside from the slash pockets, I believe they went with a heavier weight canvas- from 11.5 oz to 13.5 oz. For fit differences, I think lance has both the jeans and the pants?

http://needsupply.com/mens/jones-indigo-canvas-raw.html

[lance]

Hey grooveholmes, I have both and much prefer the second go around with slash pockets and semi-hidden fifth pocket. I am reasonably certain that the cloth is the same for both, 11.5 oz canvas but I will check this evening. Also, I'll take some pics of the canvas and fifth pocket for dkatz. Given a choice, I would definitely go with the slash pocket model but if you can grab a pair of the jean type five pocket from Barneys for $179, get em. The cuts are the same, slimmmm. Oh, also, the first run was O/W while the second (slash pockets) are raw; the difference (until you wash them) is significant. That may be why you think the second run is heavier canvas.