Raleigh Denim

[erk]

cool. So you just waltzed up in there and you chatted ut up?

well, my friend Mike knows them and he took me over there to check it out, but I think if you were to call them they wouldn't mind a visit.

[ghettokids]

well, my friend Mike knows them and he took me over there to check it out, but I think if you were to call them they wouldn't mind a visit.

awesome! would love to visit the place.

[poly800rock]

back pockets looks terrible and the red hem is to weird for my taste

you realize this is the same hem idea that 45rpm does right? is that weird too?

[grooveholmes]

Posted this on SF but I figure a small company like RD deserves some good word-of-mouth PR. I finally copped a pair from Barneys. The denim feels like butter. I e-mailed Victor (via their website) and he was very enthusiastic and invited me down to the shop. I had to work until 5pm pretty much this entire week, and fortunately he was willing and able to accommodate (very cool of him). Anyway, it was very refreshing to meet someone who is very passionate about what they do, and is committed to making a quality garment. He showed me the different rolls of denim and told me about a special fabric they're working on exclusively with Cone Mill. Out of necessity (because newer machines are $$$), but also his own admitted nerdiness, they make everything by hand and old machines. It was interesting to see how some of the older machines weave tighter button holes or create more interesting patterns. I know some people hate the back pockets, but he showed me how the stitching is evidence to the fact that they're handcrafted and sowed on by an individual behind the machine. (Still, you either like or hate the look, which is cool.) Apparently, they've "grown" from just 2 people to about a 10-person outfit. He also showed me a old, old Union Special that was in almost pristine condition, which was very cool. I can definitely vouch for the quality, though I'm sure the opinions about the aesthetics will continue. After the tour, Victor finally got around to hemming the jeans which took all of 2 minutes. He used a red thread for the hem which I think is a nice detail. He even offered to fix up my Simon Miller jeans (the button flap is effed up- manufacturer defect) if I brought them in. All in all, it was a great visit, and Victor was very generous in giving his time and energy-- just a cool guy who feels very lucky and thankful to be doing what he loves. Sarah was there too, and she was just as nice. It was definitely educational for me, as I'd never witnessed the jeans-making process before. I'm sure if any of you are in the area and have some time, they'd love to have you swing by. Drop them an email sometime.

[schild]

So. Any word from you all that have visited on the nerd-pants? I hit up Barneys earlier this week to get a pair of N&F and was surprised to find the Raleigh stuff there (in f'ing Austin, TX no less). I wasn't feeling the pair they had in stock (heavier than expected) but am looking forward to this new stuff. Should I just email them or do any of you all have some sort of update on them?

[erk]

I'm gonna try to swing by when I get back from tour next week. I'll have some new pics and maybe some good news.

[grooveholmes]

sorry, schild-- been busy with other things. I know about 2 weeks ago they were in the middle of preparing to go to NYC to present their next line or something along those lines. i haven't been by, though i'll probably swing by there in the next few weeks. i was going to buy another pair, but i caved in and bought a pair of rogue territory workpants recently.

i'd shoot them an email-- it may take a few days, but they'll surely answer your questions.

[grooveholmes]

Pics of the "Elliot" jeans. 3 months, no soaks or washes. The black seed cotton feels fantastic and I love the plain copper buttons and subtle details.

[rnrswitch]

That denim looks nuts. Nice lookin jeans. Not really my bag, but they look well put together.

[mpcec]

Yeah the denim looks nice, I like the patch too. Wish the stitching and back pockets were a little more standard though.

[erk]

I was able to visit last week and there is something cool comin around the corner for sufu. I'll have more details next week, I'm not sure how much victor wants me to talk about yet.

[grooveholmes]

I was able to visit last week and there is something cool comin around the corner for sufu. I'll have more details next week, I'm not sure how much victor wants me to talk about yet.

what a tease.

[grooveholmes]

Yeah the denim looks nice, I like the patch too. Wish the stitching and back pockets were a little more standard though.

Yea, it might be one of those weird things that grows on you. I wasn't sure about them when I first saw them, but I really dig them now. I actually think they look better with the contrast stitch (as on other models), but hey, I love the one I'm with.

[erk]

what a tease.

ok here it is.

Victor and Sarah have put together a new cut based off of a 1966 501. complete with deadstock unsanforized cone denim from 15 years ago intended for LVC or capital E use. the denim is fantastic. it looks great.

the details are still being hammered out, but here are some things to look for on the final product.

- Leather backed rivets

- hand hammered rivets

- hidden rivets

- levi's style back pockets

- single stitched inseams (wont unravel)

- sneaky cool triple felling on seat and yoke

- and i'm sure there is something i'm forgetting.

the idea for these is to do a very limited run of these (we're talking 25 pairs) specifically for superdenim. you don't have to be a member to get them or anyting, but this is something Victor has been wanting to do for a long time now : a really nerdy kinda reproduction thing.

these photos are of the sample pair Victor made for me to test drive the new pattern. and let me say, this cut is fantastic. some things are being tweaked right now, but the final pattern should be ready at the end of may and Raleigh Denim will be taking orders in the month of June.

I would compare the cut to a higher-rise s5000. I can't compare it to a 66 501 cause I don't have one. regardless, they look great.

I'll have more pictures for you when Victor makes the final pair. I'll be doing a photo documentation of the jeans from beginning to end.

other news at Raleigh Denim :

1. they are now developing custom denims with Cone. They look AWESOME. the fabric for the barney's CoOp anniversary thing is AWESOME.

2. Indigo Canvas - this stuff is super cool. I dont know how much cone is going to make of it from what Victor told me, its going to be very limited. anyways, its a super dark selvage indigo canvas. I suggested they make a pair of patch pocket pants from it, apparently I wasn't the only one who suggested that. I'm not sure where/when any Raleigh Denim Indigo Canvas items will be available, but when they are they will be cool.

[lance]

^^ the indigo canvas sounds like a great idea -I'm in for a pair no question.

[erk]

^^ the indigo canvas sounds like a great idea -I'm in for a pair no question.

a pair of the indigo canvas?

and yes, it is really cool. its made of the same rope dyed threads used for denim, so they're irregular and white on the inside; which means - they're gonna look super cool worn.

[lance]

^ Yup, the indigo canvas - I'm in for sure.

[grooveholmes]

erk thanks for that post-- that is some great info and your pics are fantastic, dude. I went by earlier this week to have a little more hemming done and I couldn't resist the Warren cotton canvas pants. They occasionally have stock that they will mark down "just because". They're the only ones who sell their denim in the area, and I think it's great that people can swing by and see firsthand how their jeans were made before they buy them. I'll post pics this weekend.

I also couldn't resist asking him about your post and Victor told me about the "uber-denim-nerd" jeans he wanted to throw out for the sufu crowd. The unsanforized deadstock is amazing and these jeans will be incredible, no doubt. Sarah was totally chill as well and she told me of a few other projects and possible collaboration proposals (some interesting and others... laughable) that have come their way.

That fabric for the silver anniversary denim for the CoOp is SICK. It has a silver cast and will be absolutely beautiful in its final form. They've got so many great ideas and projects in the works it's friggin' hard to keep up. I told him I have to save up for the anniversary jeans and then he rolled out the denim they developed especially with Cone (with a yellowish cast) and I was sweating those, too. It reminded me of the PRPS Rambler (Zimbabwe) fabric-- perhaps not as soft, but they will break in ridiculously well.

erk, let me know when you're swinging by RD again-- I'm planning to swing by in about 2 weeks, after Victor gets back into town.

[erk]

erk, let me know when you're swinging by RD again-- I'm planning to swing by in about 2 weeks, after Victor gets back into town.

I'll be there around that time. Sarah and Victor said the pattern for the 66 inspired jeans will be ready around then.

[grooveholmes]

Hey guys-- nice video about Raleigh Denim on Vimeo via A-B Fits.

[HoustonChris]

Thanks for the heads up on the video; Victor and Sarah are seriously cool and the jeans they're going to be putting out this fall are going to be fantastic. I can't wait to pick up another pair.

[undcvrsm]

ok here it is.

Victor and Sarah have put together a new cut based off of a 1966 501. complete with deadstock unsanforized cone denim from 15 years ago intended for LVC or capital E use. the denim is fantastic. it looks great.

the details are still being hammered out, but here are some things to look for on the final product.

- Leather backed rivets

- hand hammered rivets

- hidden rivets

- levi's style back pockets

- single stitched inseams (wont unravel)

- sneaky cool triple felling on seat and yoke

- and i'm sure there is something i'm forgetting.

the idea for these is to do a very limited run of these (we're talking 25 pairs) specifically for superdenim. you don't have to be a member to get them or anyting, but this is something Victor has been wanting to do for a long time now : a really nerdy kinda reproduction thing.

these photos are of the sample pair Victor made for me to test drive the new pattern. and let me say, this cut is fantastic. some things are being tweaked right now, but the final pattern should be ready at the end of may and Raleigh Denim will be taking orders in the month of June.

I would compare the cut to a higher-rise s5000. I can't compare it to a 66 501 cause I don't have one. regardless, they look great.

I'll have more pictures for you when Victor makes the final pair. I'll be doing a photo documentation of the jeans from beginning to end.

Hey erk, any update on this? I was looking for something made from Cone denim, but Roy has went on hiatus. The Raleighs documented on denimdebate.com look good, and a 66 cut made from deadstock Cone sounds delishh

[grooveholmes]

I shot Victor and email two weeks ago and he said it's still going to happen and to remain patient. Sorry I don't have any more info, but I assume they're pretty busy in general. I also know they're doing some special stuff for Barney's 25th anniversary this fall. If you're looking for Cone denim, have you looked into Tellason?

[HoustonChris]

Yeah, I think things are a bit crazy for them these days. When Victor and Sarah were in town a few months ago, he mentioned that they were trying to relocate to a larger space, plus they've got multiple denims they're designing with Cone for their fall releases. As for the Barney's 25th, well here's what Victor told me:

"we made one with Pima cotton for the Barneys COOP 25th year anniversary....should be out September or October and some of them will have real silver buttons and rivets. The head guy at the Cone mill said it was the most beautiful fabric they have ever made."

If you want to buy some Cone denim, I say wait for this, cause it's gonna be NICE.

[Noodle36]

Just picked up a pair from a local shop. Really nice. 14.4oz? Like the red chain stitch at the cuff, and the Cone denim is thick and full of character. I own telleson's and Roys and would not say these are better or worse. I love my Roys because you can't beat em. The Tellasons are cool to. Can't understand the detractors!. One thing I have noticed and maybe someone with more knowledge of Cone denim can answer this. I have noticed that the Tellasons & the Raleighs have a smoke smell. Has the denim been singed? Anyways puttin it out there, someone has got to have an answer.

[grooveholmes]

Interesting... I never noticed it with mine. What model are they? Are yours made with the black seed pima cotton?

[Noodle36]

I looked at the Pima Cotton. They have a darker weft and seem to be a little thinner (oz). They had a nice almost over dyed color. Went with the 14.5oz standard (change from my previous post "14.4"). I don't know the model I want to say Edmund? Straight leg slightly thinned out? Is that the Edmund? Anyways. The denim reminds me of my Roy's pre soak (that is for rnr, I saw that he was on an earlier post). rnr check em out. Groove - you did not notice a smoke smell?

[HoustonChris]

Interesting; I haven't noticed a smoke smell with mine and i have a couple of pairs. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that manufacturers will sometimes singe the excess hairs off of denim during the sanforization process to make the fabric more smooth and shiny, but I could be wrong about that. And I have no idea if Raleigh does that if it is right.

14.5oz is a nice weight- I think anything from 14oz to 16oz is about perfect. Seems like most of Raleigh's models are lighter. I think Victor prefers denim closer to 13oz.

[grooveholmes]

Groove - you did not notice a smoke smell?

Sorry for the delayed response, Noodle-- I was out of town for Labor Day. I haven't noticed a smoky smell, but I'm not going to doubt your word, either. I've been to visit the RD workshop a few times and I think I would have noticed the distinct smell you describe, though. However, I'd be interested in whatever results you find!

[Noodle36]

Groove - no worries! The smell is not particularly offensive, I sort of associated it with Cone Selvage. Figured it was one of the idiosyncracies of it as the Tellasons and Raleighs have the same smell. I did not notice it on my Roys, but they were soaked shortly after I received them.

Groove - have you soaked or washed your Raleighs yet? Or for that matter do you have other Cone Selvage that you have washed?

Oh and what are your thoughts on Cone Selvage? I got the impression that some of the Superfuturites dislike Cone (Ande Whall used to use Cone). I made a query on when he would use it again and was told by more than a few that they hoped never.

Anyways, I will keep looking into the smoke smell...maybe it is the indigo, or maybe it is Canada Customs, who knows?