Studio D'Artisan SD101 VS SD201 help...

[bobby alto]

I am thinking of ordering a pait of the Studio D'Artisan through bid-service and I was wondering if someone could tell me the differences between these two pairs? I think the SD202 is sanforized while the 101 is not. Are there any other major differences that make up the almost $40 difference? Thanks. Also these are similar to a 501 cut right?

Edited by bobby alto on Jan 13, 2006 at 09:42 PM

[Guest Berget__]

I compared the two here

http://translate.google.com/translate?sourceid=navclient-menuext&hl=en&u=http%3A//www.dartisan.co.jp/jeans/dt_sd201.html

http://translate.google.com/translate?sourceid=navclient-menuext&hl=en&u=http%3A//www.dartisan.co.jp/jeans/dt_sd101.html

And the differences i could see except that the 101s are sanforized was that the 101 is 15oz denim while the 201 is 14oz. Also the 201 doesnt have hidden rivets

I aint gotta get money man money get me

[bobby alto]

alright from those links and pictures, it looks like the 101's have a different color selvege, are 15oz instead of 14oz, are unsanforized while the 201's are, have four fly buttons compared to the 201's three, and have hidden rear rivets. Am I missing anything? Thanks for the help btw.

[frideswide]

The cut is somewhat different too.

See the comparison chart for the different types of fits and fabrics:

http://www.dartisan.co.jp/shilhouette/index.html

[horriblyjollyjinx]

I think he meant the 201's. The first digit specifies what denim is used and the last digit tells which cut they are, so 201s and 101s are the same cut.

I know that the 10X's fade beautifully, but I haven't seen the 20X's.

dontcaretoomuchforcrap CANT SKATE!!

[bobby alto]

Alright last question. Does anyone know if I order from the SD'A website, will the 201's come dry or one-wash?

[frideswide]

Going by what's on the website, the 100's are dry shrink-to-fit, the 200's are dry sanforized, and the 300's are one-wash.

[takashi]

It's sort of similar to the Evisu numbering system: No.1 : unsanforized; No.2 sanforized (or shrink-processed, as they call it). The No.1's will shrink 10%, the No.2's about 3%.

In the case of Evisu, however, the weight of No.1 and No.2 is the same, at 14,5oz; in the case of Studio D'Artisan, the 100's are 15oz, the 200's are 14oz.

There are also some other slight differences as to whether the starch/sizing (called 'nori' or 糊 in Japanese) is applied to the denim yarn before or after weaving, but I won't bore you with that.

.

Edited by takashi on Jan 16, 2006 at 11:14 AM

[bobby alto]

actually, I would like to hear it if you don't mind typing it out

[minya]

Quote:

actually, I would like to hear it if you don't mind typing it out

--- Original message by bobby alto on Jan 16, 2006 11:25 AM

me too. I always appreciate your knowledge, takashi.

[takashi]

Well... at the risk of sounding like a complete nerd (I do have a normal social life you know ... drinking and girls and all the rest of it ... ) :

As you know, sanforization (which was originally called Âecompressive shrinkageÂf by Cluett) and other similar non-patented methods of shrink-proofing, are purely mechanical processes by which the already-woven denim fabric is laterally compressed between large rubber rollers. Loosely speaking, the fabric is Âescrunched upÂf on a micro level so it has not much further to contract when washed. Starch/sizing/nori is typically applied after such shrink-proofing has been carried out to fill in irregularities and give the woven material a stiffness which is useful in the cutting and sewing stage. This is the way, for example, that Japanese Evisu No. 2 denim is made, and it produces fabric which shrinks less than 3% on average.

Non-sanforized fabric can also be starched this way after weaving, but an older and more traditional approach is to apply the starch to the thread before weaving. This produces a rougher, less regular, and more pliable fabric, with somewhat less of a flat sheen to it. This is the way, for example, Japanese Evisu No. 1 denim is made. It will shrink 10% or even more.

I should add that there are other methods of shrink-proofing as well. One common one is treating the woven fabric with ammonia, which permanently swells the cotton; (sometimes this is carried out in conjunction with mechanical sanforization to produce fabric of very high stability: less than 1% shrinkage). Silicone is also sometimes used.

.

Edited by takashi on Jan 17, 2006 at 08:17 AM

[bobby alto]

very interesting read. Thanks for typing it out

[Roland]

Check these out too ....

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/more-net/376332/472300/

Happy Year of the Dog!

[frideswide]

^

Woof!

[kumo]

thats some trippy jeans...

[crisis]

I've heard the SD-101's have a similar fit to the SD-1177 (21oz) . These are me in the SD-1177. The fit is classic, with a higher rise. A little big in the hips and thighs and slightly tapers to the bottom. Pretty baggy, they look even more baggy since the shape of the pants doesn't change too much when i move since they're so heavyweight. The girlfriend says it looks like i'm wearing sweats underneath.

Edited by crisis on Jan 18, 2006 at 02:55 PM

Edited by crisis on Jan 18, 2006 at 03:00 PM

[frideswide]

Very nice, crisis. How about some close-ups?

[crisis]

here's just a tiny comparison between the SD-1177 (similar to SD101) and some APC New Standards

[docdoom]

wow that looks seriously heavy denim!

[Neilfuji]

Hi

I know I'm a little late on this one, but i needed to say, been a BIG fan of this range for the longest time

one of the best ranges out there

thank you!!!!

[Dex_star]

why are the 10x much more expensive than 20x?

is is just because of the weight?

rivets?

(sorry for reviving a semi-old thread)

[Chicken]

i believe it's in the quality of the denim. the 10x's are the most vintage-like denim out of the bunch, non-sanforized so they'll twist and shrink as you wash them. the 20x's are lighter, softer sanforized denim and the 30x's are even lighter in weight and they are sanforized one-wash denim -- more pedestrian denim, so to speak.

on the side, the 00x's are lefty twills and they fade very vertically. the D0x's use natual indigo. and the 1002s are lefty bootcut, but i have no idea what it means to be in the 100x's.

[Dex_star]

thanks for the info chicken

one more question, am i right to presume that these arent exactly a repro shape?

and that the x03 would be more similar to the shape of skulls?

thanks again

[Dick Danger]

Well... at the risk of sounding like a complete nerd (I do have a normal social life you know ... drinking and girls and all the rest of it ... ) :

As you know, sanforization (which was originally called Âecompressive shrinkageÂf by Cluett) and other similar non-patented methods of shrink-proofing, are purely mechanical processes by which the already-woven denim fabric is laterally compressed between large rubber rollers. Loosely speaking, the fabric is Âescrunched upÂf on a micro level so it has not much further to contract when washed. Starch/sizing/nori is typically applied after such shrink-proofing has been carried out to fill in irregularities and give the woven material a stiffness which is useful in the cutting and sewing stage. This is the way, for example, that Japanese Evisu No. 2 denim is made, and it produces fabric which shrinks less than 3% on average.

Non-sanforized fabric can also be starched this way after weaving, but an older and more traditional approach is to apply the starch to the thread before weaving. This produces a rougher, less regular, and more pliable fabric, with somewhat less of a flat sheen to it. This is the way, for example, Japanese Evisu No. 1 denim is made. It will shrink 10% or even more.

I should add that there are other methods of shrink-proofing as well. One common one is treating the woven fabric with ammonia, which permanently swells the cotton; (sometimes this is carried out in conjunction with mechanical sanforization to produce fabric of very high stability: less than 1% shrinkage). Silicone is also sometimes used.

.

Edited by takashi on Jan 17, 2006 at 08:17 AM

good read

I really miss stuff like this.

[Chicken]

one more question, am i right to presume that these arent exactly a repro shape?

and that the x03 would be more similar to the shape of skulls?

thanks again

you're right. many of these japanese companies abandoned the idea of doing the exact repros so that they can release cuts that are little more taylored to modern needs. (i think sugarcanes are one of the few who's still doing repros, therefore their models are numbers 45, 47, 55, etc.)

however, i think the x03s are loosely based on the 66 cuts and are not as slim as the skulls i assume you're talking about, like the 5010xx's. but do you know that skull jeans also make jeans in more conventional cuts, like their 5000s?

[Dex_star]

yea i saw all of their cuts

but i own a pair of 5010xx 6x6 and want to try a different brand

im also looking for a sanforized pair because i love the sheen of raw, hence my interest in the 20x

[Chicken]

then the 203s might be a good option for you, like you said. a little cost-effective, too. but you might want to size down so that it'll be closer to your skulls, if i'm not misreading you.

[Dex_star]

well i wouldnt mind a looser fit

ive grown to like the fit of my stf 501's actually but im not ready to jump to that loose of a fit just yet as i still love slim jeans

but thanks for all the great info

203s are gonna be my next purchase

[reydogg23]

What is the hem measurement on the 201s?

[khaltire]

depends on the size of the waist.. check www.dartisan.co.jp for sizing charts