Lynn Downey and Archive garments in NY this Saturday

[pacioli]

Lynn Downey in New York

East coasters will at long last get a chance to see some important Levi's archive pieces in person. This Saturday, October 11th, Lynn Downey herself will be present to show rare garments like the oldest 501 jeans in the world, pictured above. This pair of "XX" is dated to be from circa 1879. You will have the opportunity to ask all the burning questions and get the official word from Levi's in-house historian who has dedicated a large part of her life to understanding and documenting the company's history.

The event will be held from 2-6PM at Barney's CO-OP in the Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan and is meant to unveil the new Premium 501. You can expect to geek out on denim history, check out some archive pieces, and score some free t-shirts.

Barneys CO-OP Chelsea

236 West 18th Street

New York, NY 10011

[fre-co]

It's times like this when I REALLY wish I lived in NYC....

[aho]

I trust that you will attend and document this for your blog?

[pacioli]

Now that we have your trust we shall.

[pacioli]

I hope you didn't miss out on this opportunity to check out these archive pieces.

From loomchatter.com:

XX: The World's Oldest Known Pair of Levi's 501 Jeans

The Levi's archive garments are something to behold. The oldest known pair of 501's are dubbed "XX" and exude an aura that is difficult to describe. Dated to be from 1879 its denim is full of loom chatter, vertical striations of both shade and yarn character. Careful observation of areas where the indigo did not chip off (behind the buckle and inside the back pocket) reveals how rich and red the cast of the original shade must have been.

Besides the XX several other 501's were on display (1920's, 1937, 1950's). A careful enthusiast can study the differences in details among 501's from different periods. After all the event is to showcase the new Premium 501. The pair I tried on was a dark washed, whisker crunched, redline selvage jean with an updated, slim, low rise, fit. A raw version will apparently be available. Word is Barneys on Madison Avenue in New York already has them. Unlike the vintage 501's of yesteryear these modern jeans do not have workwear details like hidden back pocket rivets and back buckles. But the LVC line (Levi's Vintage Clothing) can give you that fix if it's your cup of tea. It is probably Levi's most researched, well-informed line in terms of understanding its own heritage and history.

Looking at archive pieces with Lynn Downey, Levi's in-house historian, is a unique experience one should not pass on. In fact it should be on every denimhead's list of things to do before you die.

So rare is the XX that it is stored in a safe and is guarded by a sentry when taken on the road. Here is Lynn showing off the oldest surviving pair of 501's as Evan from Meyerson Security stands guard. I was tempted to warn him about the suspicious-looking Blue Man Group peering over their shoulders.

Studying a fill yarn defect with Lynn. Is it defect or character?

Confirming it is not a mispick by looking at the underside. I was honored to have been offered the white gloves to handle this precious relic.

[Paul T]

Great story! Thanks for this, do post more photos if you can

I was lucky enough to fondle the Nevada pair, which were produced around the same time, and would love to get my hands on these. Incredible, isn't it, that you can look at these Victorian-era jeans then walk out into the street and see kids wearing something essentially similar.

For those interested in early Levi's, the 'XX' was the model that became the 501. The Nevada was a more workwear-oriented pair that disappeared by the mid 1880s; its design could predate or postdate the XX, no one knows for sure due to Levi's limited pre-fire records.

It's disappointing, though, that while LVC produce some excellent other replicas, they don't do a decent version of these jeans. For some bizarre reason (with the proviso I've only looked at samples) the LVC version of this jean has the patch in the middle.

[crownzip]

It was great meeting Lynn and having the chance to see some beautiful denim. I also had the chance to speak with the marketing guy from Levi's who was there promoting the new Levi's. He told me the only LVC that are currently being made in the US are the '47 501's and soon those will be sent off-shore for manufacture. He said it was simply too expensive to make them in the US anymore. It was sad to hear the the last of the true American workwear brand will no longer even be made here anymore.

[Paul T]

hmmm, while my pessimistic self tells me that might be true, the new range were certainly made in another US factory - all the jeans, not just the 47, as the factory codes reveal. Fingers crossed that if they do move offshore, it's to Japan. Otherwise they might as well shut up the LVC shop.

[pacioli]

hi Paul and Crown- It is unfortunate to hear there is movement in LVC sourcing. But we must keep the faith that designers and merchandisers recognize the importance of made-in-America to a company like Levi's in general and to a line like LVC in particular.

They may dabble in sourcing overseas for a season or two but the LVC line is a connoisseur's brand. If its target audience recognizes a difference in construction details then LVC will be challenged to reconsider.

Otherwise American sewing factories are challenged to step it up.

[weirdnjfan1]

Damn, out of all the rotten luck that I have. Again I live so close to something cool and miss it. Oh well, I guess that I might luck out and catch the next event.

[erk]

to outsource the LVC line is such a terribly bad Idea. i really hope that guy was wrong (It really seems that he IS wrong since the EU LVCs are made in usa). one of the coolest things about LVC is the fact that it is made in the US, just like it should be.

cool exhibition though, I would have loved to have seen that stuff. thanks for the information.

[crownzip]

It really is too bad such an icon of American work wear may not even be made in the USA, but all is not lost. My '37 501 LVC Japan repros are better than most of the LVC stuff I've seen lately made here! I wish Americans cared enough about our own work wear heritage but at least the Japanese appreciate it and carry on the tradition.