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Patrik Ervell S/S 09


larssss

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Don't know if i'm skinny enough for those navy trousers, but i want to try anyways.

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Like I've always said about Ervell, to me it feels like he's bordering somewhere between Jil Sander and dangerously looking like Uniqlo. I personally have never been 100% impressed with his fabrication (which is what makes Jil Sander's minimalism work). But it's very hard to stand out, especially as an american menswear designer, when you basically possess the same american menswear sillouhette as nearly every other menswear designer. As well as using almost the same color pallette as them.

Strange that you call his fabrics unimpressive. What qualification do you have for that? His fabrics are oftentimes quite unique and his wools and cashmeres are extremely luxurious. Go take a look at the F/W collection that has just started hitting stores; if you think those fabrics are still unimpressive I will be quite shocked.

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Strange that you call his fabrics unimpressive. What qualification do you have for that? His fabrics are oftentimes quite unique and his wools and cashmeres are extremely luxurious. Go take a look at the F/W collection that has just started hitting stores; if you think those fabrics are still unimpressive I will be quite shocked.

Yeah, I agree. I go fabric hunting all over with a pal and we never find anything remotely like what Ervell gets. The construction details are precise and fastidiously engineered too. Not like traditional high-end tailoring or sewing, a little flimsier admittedly for that price point, but the approach is mathematical. His adherence to the regulating concept goes all the way down.

But it's very hard to stand out, especially as an american menswear designer, when you basically possess the same american menswear sillouhette as nearly every other menswear designer.

I dunno about this either. I find his silhouette fairly unusual in a landscape dominated by the Thom Browne effect and its backlash. Ervell's tops are almost all squared off without being exactly boxy and set off against a variety of trouser shapes. I can't pretend to really understand why this is, especially since it doesn't flatter many bodies (even those in his shows) but I am intrigued by the rigor and consistency with which he approaches this. His hangup with repeating seasons I think he tends to justify by routinely attacking the seasonal system in fashion.

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