HELP: Suit connoisseurs and/or experts

[HermitEdge]

Dear SUFU,

I procured this suit as a birthday gift and am debating on what I should do. My body is probably built a little retarded, so the problem lies in a broader upper region and slim waste… waste is 29-30, chest is usually around 36, height is 5’7”, weight about 142ish.

The Suit is a size 36 Regular in somewhat of a Euro cut. However, as you can see, there’re some minor complications: the shoulders, and upper back. Now, I’m not big on suits, but am trying to get into the game bc I’ll be needing some new ones… but I wanted to know if my problems are fixable if I went to the tailor, or should I just return the suit? I’m open to any advice, as long as its not flaming.

Only reason this is a dilemma is bc 38’s usually run huge, and I like this fit minus the problems mentioned. And I dont wanna get jipped by a tailor.

PICS:

Thanks

[sungrak]

too small. you can only do so much with that. the back rolls can be accomodated, but the padding in the shoulders and general armpit and waist tightness is a non-negotiable.

i feel you in the sense that i used to try to get them too tight, cuz i felt that was better than swimming in one, but i think you should go return for a 38 and get it taken in properly. a good tailor will make it work, especially if the suits cut slimmer.

[geekbonchic]

The puckering is a dead give-away. When fitting for a jacket, fit for the chest and have a tailor take it in on the waist for a proper fit. Most people use the one fist in the jacket rule, but that's only a general estimate of what looks.

Where did you get this suit from anyway?

[kunk75]

i just went through this with a raf simons suit bought on auction.

there is very little that can be done with the upper back or shoulders.

sometimes easing the armholes helps a bit with the upper back, but returning/selling is probably your best bet.

[MiniW]

from the pictures it seems like the suit will not work due to the ill-fitting of the shoulders. Now whether it is attributed to a poorly made suit OR the wrong sizing I can't tell, but I would say not to keep this one.

I think the best advice when buying a suit/blazer is to have it FIT PERFECTLY AT THE SHOULDERS, not chest. Chest can be made a little smaller by taking in the center back seam (though this can be expensive), waist can be tailored too. The shoulders though, ususally can not be tailored without messing up the jacket completely, and I've made this mistake 2-3 times before learning my lesson. Hope this helps.

[HermitEdge]

Thanks to the above posters. I may take it back and get a 38 instead, we'll see.

Any further suggestions on the fit are appreciated.

[fade to black2]

ripples in the back are never a good sign.

[HermitEdge]

ripples in the back are never a good sign.

Yea, I asked a tailor about that, and he said the ripples can be subdued by lowering the collar... but the main problem was the shoulder padding area.

[fade to black2]

yeah if you're like me and a have a body type that's hard to fit, off the rack suits are usually not a great option. The only off the rack suit maker I've ever found to really fit me perfectly was Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, and looks like I have to wait till next winter before I can find another one.

Made to measure/bespoke is of course the go to choice, but to find a tailor that can give you a good experience for a reasonable price may be a bit hard. Here in Hong Kong, where everyone comes to get suits made, most of the tailors are pretty crap.

[Thorns]

Where do you live? We can recommend good MTM depending on where you are. Even NYC has a couple great quality options for a (relatively) small investment.

Oh and NEVER despite what anyone tells you buy a suit that has shoulders that aren't perfect. Theres nothing that can be done.

[m1sterko]

any options for so cal ppl?

[sungrak]

google "thick as thieves"

you take a whole bunch of measurements, email them in, and pick fabrics,

and in about 3 weeks you get your MTM suit back.

its only about $475 too(maybe cheaper if you tell him you got referred off sufu or styleforum)

theyre actually in LA i think so you could probably even arrange a meetup

[m1sterko]

thick as thievse it hink is the best bang for your buck.

and its helpful if you can do a meet up in LA where they are based off of.

i saw their site and the suits they produce are pretty good on fit.

[Thorns]

I'll echo thick as thieves. GetSmart knows what he's doin.