Sugarcane jeans

[johnsayers]

I am absolutely desperate to buy some sugarcane jeans.

I live in London and the store I used to buy them from has stopped importing them and refuses to order them in for me. I have tried contacting shops in Japan but they will only deal with registered importers for some reason.

I own 5 pairs, the oldest of which is now 4 years old. They still look great but are definately on their last legs, even for my standards. I am willing to pay post and packaging + to get hold of some.

Can anyone help me please?

Thanks

Desperate of London

[ringring]

Dear Desperate of London,

Was it Liberty that stocked Sugarcanes in London?

Otherwise try Grandism.com in Zurich, Take5jeans.com in Hong Kong, historypreservation.com in the USA or direct from Japan eg.http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119706/256094/ using a shopping service like Rinkya/Celga.

The gentleman who owns Denimbar posts here and should also be stocking 'Canes soon.

Nice jeans

[teejayess]

I think The Grand (www.grandism.com) is currently out of stock of Sugarcane. If you're looking for a European stockist, there is another shop in Zurich (I couldn't believe it) with Sugarcane. It's called VMC - they have a higher mark-up than the Grand, but have a good range of styles and washes. The shop doesn't have a website, but should be able to do mailorder if you know the name of the style you're after. Ring them on: +41 44 2515696

Edited by teejayess on Sep 5, 2005 at 07:53 AM

[Biggow]

I'm pretty sure History Preservation will ship to the UK.....

http://historypreservation.com/hpassociates/sugarcane_2.php

[ddohnggo]

can someone tell me why sugarcanes are really good? any different than levi's 501's? thanks.

[rnrswitch]

Hey ring ring, how would one go about ordering denim from rakuten online? I use the google translator, but a lot of it is still indecipherable. The buttons don't get translated. Is there anyway to get past that? Do they ship to the US and how is their customer relations?

Thanks

[minya]

Quote:

Hey ring ring, how would one go about ordering denim from rakuten online? I use the google translator, but a lot of it is still indecipherable. The buttons don't get translated. Is there anyway to get past that? Do they ship to the US and how is their customer relations?

Thanks

--- Original message by rnrswitch on Sep 5, 2005 02:35 PM

http://www.celga.com/

[tyco]

I am considering ordering a pair of Sugarcane 14.25oz Hawaii denim through celga. I will post after the experience and report how it went--cost of shipping, time it took, etc.

I do have a question regarding Sugarcane sizing. Do the Canes shrink down to the size on the tag or do they come raw as the size on the tag and then shrink down a few inches smaller than what is marked on the tag?

In other words, I'm a size 32 waist. Should I order a 32 or should I order something like a 34?

I searched the archives for this information and there has been a difference of opinion in the past on whether Sugarcanes come as the size on the tag or whether they shrink down to that size after the first wash or dunk in the tub. Maybe someone can put the matter to rest--or maybe it varies depending on the different style of jean.

Thanks. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

[ringring]

On the Hawaii's buy your waist size (32 in your case, or depending how you like your jeans to fit, a 31 would also be OK - the waist can stretch out an inch). They will shrink to tag size. They don't shrink that much.

Very nice jeans BTW. The sweet sorghum denim is amazing (it actually smells faintly sweet - I didn't believe it at first - it develops whiskers real quick too), and the high density stitching is impressive (how the twin row of fly stitching merges to a point). Hand embroidered pocket logo's, hand felled seams, bound fly facing seams etc - top stuff. I'd snaffle up the Hawaii's whilst you can.

rnrswitch - try Celga, Rinya or Bid-Service. Something like that for Japan net-shopping.

[juxtaposed]

the pyhon patch ones were recently on ebay in 36 for 80 euros..

[takashi]

I'm pretty sure I've seen Sugarcane's in Liberty, but they may have been down in the basement where they have discontinued lines, odd sizes, and remainders.

Last time I was there they were stocking PRPS, Nudies, APC, a Japanese brand called Kato (not selvege, but interesting design), and some others I cant remember (probably the usual NY fashion lines like Rogan, etc). This autumn they said they will be stocking Julian Red.

The "History Preservation" people in the US only seem to import the 1947 Sugarcane models and not the full line including the more exotic items (Okinawa, Hawaii, Natural Indigo, Persimmon-dyed, etc)

best,

takashi

Edited by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:27 AM

[st199ml]

Liberty did stock Sugarcane. I was in there last week. Their importer can no longer supply them. No reason was given.

I asked about other Japanese denim brands but was told they were paring down the denim to predominantly APC and Nudie (albeit a wider range). Rogan was being discontinued. Julian Red in there is news to me. Good news.

Takashi, I believe I've read on here that you buy denim from Mitsukoshi. Is this true? If so which brands do they hold?

[spitzbrg]

Quote:

I'm pretty sure I've seen Sugarcane's in Liberty, but they may have been down in the basement where they have discontinued lines, odd sizes, and remainders.

Last time I was there they were stocking PRPS, Nudies, APC, a Japanese brand called Kato (not selvege, but interesting design), and some others I cant remember (probably the usual NY fashion lines like Rogan, etc). This autumn they said they will be stocking Julian Red.

The "History Preservation" people in the US only seem to import the 1947 Sugarcane models and not the full line including the more exotic items (Okinawa, Hawaii, Natural Indigo, Persimmon-dyed, etc)

best,

takashi

Edited by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:27 AM

--- Original message by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 06:24 AM

Hi Takashi,

Do you own Persimmon-dyed? If so, I'm curious to hear your comments. Are they Kaki-Shibu coated? or yarn-dyed..

[takashi]

Mitsukoshi, mmm.. no, never set foot in there I'm afraid (the London one, anyway -- I've been in plenty in Japan, but never for denim).

[takashi]

Quote:

Quote:

I'm pretty sure I've seen Sugarcane's in Liberty, but they may have been down in the basement where they have discontinued lines, odd sizes, and remainders.

Last time I was there they were stocking PRPS, Nudies, APC, a Japanese brand called Kato (not selvege, but interesting design), and some others I cant remember (probably the usual NY fashion lines like Rogan, etc). This autumn they said they will be stocking Julian Red.

The "History Preservation" people in the US only seem to import the 1947 Sugarcane models and not the full line including the more exotic items (Okinawa, Hawaii, Natural Indigo, Persimmon-dyed, etc)

best,

takashi

Edited by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:27 AM

--- Original message by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 06:24 AM

Hi Takashi,

Do you own Persimmon-dyed? If so, I'm curious to hear your comments. Are they Kaki-Shibu coated? or yarn-dyed..

--- Original message by spitzbrg on Sep 6, 2005 08:22 AM

Hi spitzbrg.

I don't own the Sugarcane kaki-shibu jeans. They do look to be yarn-dyed, not overdyed, although it's not too distinct from the photos (you have probably seen these as well):

http://saddlemen.net/jeans/sckakisibu.htm

I am waiting for Samurai's selvedge kaki-shibu jeans to come out this December -- I think they will will be quite special.

best,

takashi

[spitzbrg]

Hi Takashi,

I think those Sugar Cane's are coated based on the pricing.

Only 300 meters of yarn-dyed Kaki-Shibu denim are made per year which makes it VERY expensive. See the below link. I'm pretty sure these are yarn-dyed considering the cost of these jeans.

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119698/303245/

[ringring]

Those Burgus jeans definitely look yarn dyed. You can see the white weft.

[Guest]

$550 too!!

[spitzbrg]

Quote:

Those Burgus jeans definitely look yarn dyed. You can see the white weft.

--- Original message by ringring on Sep 6, 2005 10:07 AM

$550 too!!

[minya]

those are pretty ugly in my opinion

[horriblyjollyjinx]

Quote:

Hi Takashi,

I think those Sugar Cane's are coated based on the pricing.

Only 300 meters of yarn-dyed Kaki-Shibu denim are made per year which makes it VERY expensive. See the below link. I'm pretty sure these are yarn-dyed considering the cost of these jeans.

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119698/303245/

--- Original message by spitzbrg on Sep 6, 2005 10:05 AM

those are rather nice, maybe not the backpockets but anyway. I've actually seen levises made of denim that look roughly the same, on rakuten or something like that.

tally-hoo

[Aotearoa]

MMM. Canes. On my current wish list!

[Geowu]

if I would buy Burgus I would cut off the selvage in the back pockets.

[minya]

Quote:

Hi spitzbrg.

I don't own the Sugarcane kaki-shibu jeans. They do look to be yarn-dyed, not overdyed, although it's not too distinct from the photos (you have probably seen these as well):

http://saddlemen.net/jeans/sckakisibu.htm

I am waiting for Samurai's selvedge kaki-shibu jeans to come out this December -- I think they will will be quite special.

best,

takashi

--- Original message by takashi on Sep 6, 2005 09:13 AM

Can someone tell me what material these persimmon Sugarcane jeans are? They're 50% cotton, 50% ... something else??

I thought they were ugly, but the brown's kind of growing on me.

Plus they're only $155...

Edited by minya on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:31 PM

[Geowu]

not sure, I think it says 50% cotton, and 50% sugar cane fibre (from the plant)

Edited by Geowu on Sep 6, 2005 at 06:51 PM

[jdavis]

Quote:

On the Hawaii's buy your waist size (32 in your case, or depending how you like your jeans to fit, a 31 would also be OK - the waist can stretch out an inch). They will shrink to tag size. They don't shrink that much.

Very nice jeans BTW. The sweet sorghum denim is amazing (it actually smells faintly sweet - I didn't believe it at first - it develops whiskers real quick too), and the high density stitching is impressive (how the twin row of fly stitching merges to a point). Hand embroidered pocket logo's, hand felled seams, bound fly facing seams etc - top stuff. I'd snaffle up the Hawaii's whilst you can.

rnrswitch - try Celga, Rinya or Bid-Service. Something like that for Japan net-shopping.

--- Original message by ringring on Sep 6, 2005 04:37 AM

ringring,

what would you say are some reasons that some denims (ie the hawaii cane) develop whiskers quicker than others? why do some denims take longer to fade?

does acceleated fading equate any way to weaker cotton or indigo? does natural indigo fade faster?

and doesn't it all depend on how the denim is worn?

[Geowu]

that's a pretty interesting question. I will not answer since I don't know and I lack of experience...

I would <u>guess</u> that the rigidity of the denim has to do with it, as well as the weight, the consistency, the cotton, the variations in weight inside the same denim, the processes applyed in the production, the starch and other substances added or not. I think all of these interact but I have no clue to exactly how.

[aitsuka]

wow, this thread is amazing

-don't hate, appreciate-

[ringring]

Minya: "Can someone tell me what material these persimmon Sugarcane jeans are? They're 50% cotton, 50% ... something else??"

It's Sweet Sorghum, otherwise known as Sweet Millet or Sugar Millet. It's a type of grass grown all over the world for making a molasses like syrup and animal feed. The Sugarcane jeans that feature this fibre have a faint sweet smell and may have occaisional fibrous-woody tuffs poking out of the fabric. I think Sugarcane also claim that it's good for your skin!

jdavis :"what would you say are some reasons that some denims (ie the hawaii cane) develop whiskers quicker than others? "

I believe in the case of the Hawaii 'Cane's the whiskers develop quickly due to the combination of the texture of fabric and the dyeing. The Hawaii's are highly textured, almost ribbed like a pique, so any abrasion hits this ridges and dye rubs off. The varied colouring of the warp yarns from an almost black to a mid-blue, also accentuates whiskering. (it's like rubbing an eraser across some coloured stripes - not so easy to describe in words). The other factors would be dye, dyeing process and I assume that Sorghum will take indigo dyeing in a different way to cotton.

Why do some denims take longer to fade? - Again a combination of factors, eg. the dyeing (how many dye baths have been taken, oxidation times, whether any sulphur dye has been added etc), finishing (mercerised or not, washed or not) and wear. Remember that indigo will naturally darken with time as it continues to oxidise or be bleached by the sun, so storage will have some effect on your jeans.

Does acceleated fading equate any way to weaker cotton or indigo? - It may mean it's had less dye baths & oxidation times. It maybe that it's a mix of indigo and sulphur dyes (sulphurs dyes are cheaper and fade quicker). A mix of things.

does natural indigo fade faster? - that's quite a complicated question. In theory, no. Natural Indigo and Synthetic indigo are chemically identical so their fading properties on paper are the same. But this comparison can be blurred as some natural indigo denims may not be 100% plant dye, as I believe you only need 60% natural indigo to qualify labelling the denim as natural. The indigo plants themselves will also effect the shade - I'm reliably told that indigo grown the europe is does not produce as dark blues as indigo cultivated in India, China & Japan. (Europe vs Asia use different plants. Although I suspect the regional dyeing process will have an effect here).

Doesn't it all depend on how the denim is worn? - Yes. The wear is a major factor in how a pair of jeans will look, whether it be factory induced wear or 'natural' wear.

[spitzbrg]