dry selvage - need advice on sizing, fit

[plat_overcast]

Hello all-

First, let me thank all of you for making this an amazing resource. People like wild_whiskey, ringring and serge have a rediculous amout of knowledge, class acts all around.

I'm about to take the plunge into high-end denim and could really use some recommendations on fit and size. First of all, the basics:

I'm 6'3", 180 lbs. I typically buy jeans 33x34. For example, a favorite pair of Levi's 529s (straight, low rise), 33x34. However, when I measure the waist (buttoned, across the back, letting the front sag) it's 18 x 2 =36. They're actually a little too big, will fall off my ass without a belt. Other measurements off this pair: front rise = 10.5, leg opening = 9.75 x2 = 19.5...... A pic for reference.

Here's another pair of favorite jeans, very much worn out. Levi's Engineered, 34x34. Same measurment across the waist, 36.

So I want a pair of project jeans. Dry selvage. I've narrowed it down to APC Rescues or English, or Nudie Reg. Ralfs or Straight Svens. They'll go mostly unrecognized in my Midwest city, brand cachet means nothing (not that it should.)

Can somebody give me some insight on what might sway my decision one way or the other? Any significant difference in quality or weight? What might be closest to the 529s? How true is the sizing? I've read the APCs run largish, should I size them down at all bearing in mind that my 33s now really measure closer to 36? What about sizing on the Nudies?

Thanks in advance, I'm sure you all will come through for me.

[minya]

I'm in a boat very similar to yours. I am 6' even, about 170 - 180 lbs (probably more like 185 now since I've been building muscle over the summer) and have always been a size 34.

I take it those two pairs of jeans you posted pictures of are "cheap" jeans? i.e. you purchased them for about $40ish per pair? If so, they'll probably tend to run a little larger than advertised. Although they could just be stretched out from so much use, too.

I started with Nudie Regular Ralf and I am very glad I did. They're perfect for me. I got a size 36, because the 34 didn't really fit me at all when I tried them on (then again, I was more like 185-190 when I tried them on, and the extra pounds were fat, not muscle). I would probably fit into a 34 now. Anyway, the 36 are great, and although they are quite loose on me now (because they have stretched out, too), they still look great and they don't look huge. Depending on how you like your jeans -- i.e. if you like a little baggier, I would go 36, or for a tighter fit, I would go 34.

I tried on a pair of APC Rescues and straight up, completely unstretched, the size 34 was too big for me. If I were to get Rescues I would get 33 or possibly even 32, given that they are going to stretch.

I just got a pair of Edwin EV-47 today (regular fit) in a size 34, and although they fit, they're a lot tighter than I am used to. Waist is snug but my thighs really fill them almost completely. Definitely a different fit than I'm used to, but I like it.

I would go with the Regular Ralf if I were you.

[ringring]

I'll go with Minya's advice. The dry Nudie Regular Ralph is a very nice pair of jeans. Beautiful denim. Nice fit and no 'size lottery'.

Have fun.

[heinous]

i bought some reg ralphs a few months now and hardly leave home without them..

if you want a tighter fit, go 1 size down, as with all denim, they will stretch.

[jo3 b]

are there any brands thats specify an inseam or am i stuck buying my waist sz and hemming them up?

i use a 30 if thats any good

[eastcoastrider27]

Most times, the inseam is either 34 or 36.

Rogan, I believe, is 34, and APC is 36. Not sure about Nudie.

Just cuff them though.

They look better cuffed anyways.

Plus, you can show off that selvedge line.

NyM...

Edited by eastcoastrider27 on Aug 10, 2005 at 08:05 AM

[jo3 b]

eastcoast cuffing is always the option but thats 6 (inches? centimeters? i assume inches) difference!

thats like cuffing them all the way to my knee!

[eastcoastrider27]

I would just fold them over twice.

A 2.5 inch cuff folded twice would be 5 inches off the 36" length, so you're really only 1" longer than your normal length.

But I guess you could get them hemmed.

NyM...

[wild_whiskey]

Nudie Regular Ralfs come with an inseam that's longer than the tagged size to accomodate for shrinking. My 29x32s measured 31 x 34 when I first got them. Now they measure 31 x 32.