Designer of the Week 5/26: Raf Simons

[Servo2000]

Raf Simons

Designer of the Week for 5/20 - 5/27

Raf Simons remains, with a few others relatively close behind, my personal favorite designer. So, I imagined it fitting to feature him as our first "Designer of the Week." I won't be

editorializing too much on this one, the man's work speaks for itself.

(A Brief and Torrid) Biography:

Raf Simons (1968) is a fashion designer from Belgium. He came from an apparently modest background, referring to his family as "white trash" in an interview, the son of a "career soldier and a housecleaner."

He entered into schooling as an Industrial Design major at the Royal Academy of Fine Art, and his interest in fashion only began to develop in the fourth or fifth year, when, given the opportunity to apply for an "internship," he sent his industrial design

work to Walter van Beirendonck, along with some faked-up "fashion" pieces. Raf was attracted to Beirendonck, along with the rest of the Antwerp Six, but Beirendonck especially for his

strong visual presence and because"He did a lot of things with furniture or masks -- things you cannot use -- just for the idea."

He helped Beirendonck design these pieces: imaginary perfume bottles, masks for the models, and so on... and became more and more exposed to the world of fashion as the other Belgian

designers began showing. In 1995, he started his own label under his own name.

"Simons is probably the most influential men's-wear designer of the last decade. ''He did everything before anyone else, and everybody has copied him,'' Marie-Amelie Sauve, the stylist for Balenciaga, said ... his effect on the way young men dress cannot be overstated ... a handful of designers been able to change the shape of clothes. Simons, without any of these advantages, has done it three times. The first time was in the mid-1990's, at the beginning of his career, when he came out with suits that were cut unusually small in the shoulders. The skinny black suit was not a new idea; it had been in existence since the late 50's, pleasing playboys and punks until Helmut Lang picked it up. But by putting his suits on sapling-thin Belgian boys who were not agency models, Simons introduced the idea that a young man's physical size was not at variance with his sense of isolation, a feeling that would have been ordinary to anyone who had grown up in Antwerp -- or Rotterdam or Manchester -- in isolated apartment towers built since the war. They became the dominant silhouette of the late 90's. I once asked him what made him think of that shape. As usual, he had a straightforward explanation. ''It was just because we were so small,'' he said.

The second time was in 2001, with two collections that played host to the layered, hooded, sinister image of the urban guerrilla. Although these shows were later seen as eerily anticipating the reality of 9/11, and were meant, according to Peter De Potter, a writer who collaborates with Simons, to express more mundane concerns like a fear of globalization, their chief effect was to start the trend for oversize layers. The third time was last January, when Simons brought out wide, high-waisted trousers with Eisenhower jackets. He felt that the basic element of men's design, proportion, had become secondary to postmodern abstractions. ''I was so fed up with how all these people were tweaking the silhouette,'' he said. ''Very few were working on shape. It was all about two pleats, then three, then six. And in the end you get 250,000 pleats. And embroidery. I thought, No, we have to strip it off.''

Most recently he has been recrutied to design for Jil Sanders' house. He has so far released several collections for both men and women, generally recieving critical acclaim. "The most important thing for me is that I wanted to show how much respect I have for the house," raf said on accepting the position. "Jil was always so interesting because she was off to the side of this whole fashion thing—nonreferential, stripped down to the essentials. I couldn't get to the archives until I'd signed the contract, so I went back through the look books and videos of those early Jil men's collections—1997, '98, '99—and I found them in their time much more contemporary and modern than what I've seen lately in the men's. But when I got to see and feel and fit, I was disappointed because it was so specific and so good in its time, but I found it totally dated for now…. I didn't even look at the archives after the first couple of days. But I kept the original way I perceived the clothes in my head."

For more, and better, information, I can only suggest taking a look at the interviews / articles collected here.

Interviews / Articles:

Fantastic Interview, Scroll Down

JC Report Retrospective

Men.Style Fashion Notes

NY Times Profile

New York Times "Timeline"

Please PM me if you have any you would like added.

Websites / Useful Links:

Raf Simons

Raf by Raf Simons

Jil Sander (Company)

Raf Simons Collections at Style

Jil Sander Collections at Style

Everything Else

Sorry that this is going up on Saturday and not Friday, I never got home last night to post this.

As the first designer thread, let's see how this pans out. Your job here is to post your thoughts, experiences, and favorite moments from Raf Simons. Favorite Collections, Favorite Images, Favorites pieces, or, perhaps, your least favorite of any of the above.

Perhaps it's more important to discuss the work, you say? Consider your views on his obsession with repetition and futurism or interest in youth, perhaps, or anything else that might take your fancy. Let's just run with it any see how it goes. I'll be back later this evening to post some of my favorites, if I have time.

If there's anything you think I should edit into this post, let me know. This thread will remain pinned until the next Designer of the Week post.

[onemancult]

I often wonder how Raf's obsession with adolescence and youth will pan out as he matures.

[Servo2000]

I often wonder how Raf's obsession with adolescence and youth will pan out as he matures.

I think it's panning out already, although I think he's been struggling a bit with the past season or two, I think. I think the Raf Simons label will always (well, probably) exemplify that abstract idea of youth he's latched onto, the isolation and the culture, what be it... so I think that he's going to continue supplying a manner of dress to those youth who are willing to accept it. However, I do think he's started branching out somewhat. I think between the Jil Sanders collection and some elements of the most recent Raf collections you can see him starting to work on the next logical step of his work, which to me, is just that: "maturing."

Personally, I find his Jil Sanders for men collection rather weak, although I think it gives a really obvious outlet for that juxtaposition of his ideas of youth with the far more adult and mature Jil Sanders. I think it's going to be a blending of these ideas that may start to appear more and more in his work.

I think it'll pan out just fine.

(then again, I'm a complete whore for Raf Simons so I'm probably biased)

[alterion]

I'm a fashion noob can you explain the differences between RAF simons and the RAF by raf simmons collection. is it just one is a more "traditional" line or are they different pricepoints? (other than the fact that i need a pair of those silver raf by raf AW07/08 jeabs )

[designersheep]

Raf Simons is the main line, and Raf by Raf Simons is his second line that began only about two or three seasons ago with lower quality (but still pretty good from what I've seen), and lower price point (not cheap by any means ). Raf by Raf line has lots of sweatshirts, hoodies, jeans, and other casual items that are often spinoffs of earlier Raf Simons design.

[mike lowrey]

fixed a typo for you Servo (birthdate)

this is a cool idea, and I can't say that I'd be surprised by your first pick

overall I like Raf Simons a lot, some of his stuff is a bit over the top for me, but others I really like. some are stuff that I feel are not really for me, and some things I'd love to wear. definately one of my "most watched" designers meaning that I like to follow his collections. what I like mosty about his style is the simplicity of the designs, however thats also why I'm more keen on individual pieces from his collection rather then full looks or outfits.

[seksu!]

fixed a typo for you Servo (birthdate)

this is a cool idea, and I can't say that I'd be surprised by your first pick

overall I like Raf Simons a lot, some of his stuff is a bit over the top for me, but others I really like. some are stuff that I feel are not really for me, and some things I'd love to wear. definately one of my "most watched" designers meaning that I like to follow his collections. what I like mosty about his style is the simplicity of the designs, however thats also why I'm more keen on individual pieces from his collection rather then full looks or outfits.

very well said.

i love the simplicity of individual pieces, but when strung together, it all looks weary, for lack of a better word.

[onemancult]

i love the simplicity of individual pieces, but when strung together, it all looks weary, for lack of a better word.

Raf is definitely selling a vision, and it is a comprehensive one. There's really no way around it, unless, that is, you separate out the elements- top, bottom, shoes. Together, though, I'd say that everything Raf produces contributes perfectly to his overall perspective. I think most designers today lack the ability to release fully realized collections.

[Servo2000]

I think that's one of the things I like most about Raf, is that he's not only selling a collection, but more than that a "lifestyle," and even more than that an attitude and a vision. That's what puts it on a higher level than typical "lifestyle" brands: the lifestyle he's selling is one that makes a statement in itself, rather than catering to an already existing demographic and merely convincing them that this is something they need.

I'm not sure I would say that many of his pieces stand as artistic on their own like Hussein Chalayan, for instance, but the vision and statement is just as much one.

[ProfMonnitoff]

Raf Simons was definitely a good choice for the first designer of the week. I just bought my first piece by him yesterday (SS07 Laceups). Unfortunately I haven't really been following him for very long, so I can't say much about his previous collections. However, I am already amazed by the very different ideal of beauty that he seems to believe in, it's much more along the lines of what I am partial to than the general western ideal.

I can also associate very much with his taste in art. Park, the only place in Vienna that sells his clothes (I think) has a frequently changing selection of books recommended by Raf, and they are all great. If I was in a financial position where 150 Euros for a book is feasible, I would buy all of them.

[Tiranis]

I've been contemplating writing something elaborate for this thread, seeing as Raf Simons is one of my favourite designers, but I never got around to it.

What I'm wondering though is, why the huge differences between sizing in each season? I mean, it's all over the place... even worse than Rick Owens/Drkshdw and he has some crazy sizing issues. And I realize some pieces are meant to be worn oversized, it's more a question of some of the pieces being labeled say 52 but fitting like 46... Anyone has any info on how this stuff happens—I mean is it just some factory screw-up, or is it some deliberate plan to confuse customers, prevent on-line ordering or what?

[Fuuma]

the lifestyle he's selling is one that makes a statement in itself, rather than catering to an already existing demographic and merely convincing them that this is something they need.

But wouldn’t this preclude him from having an actual audience or at least of marketing himself as a “lifestyle†brand, or do you think he’s creating a market for his product by showing customers something new? (Dior Homme kinda did that, in a sense).

[keagan]

oh no, it is the end of the week!!!!

Do Tom Ford or someone now.

[mike lowrey]

overall I like Raf Simons a lot, some of his stuff is a bit over the top for me, but others I really like. some are stuff that I feel are not really for me, and some things I'd love to wear. definately one of my "most watched" designers meaning that I like to follow his collections. what I like mosty about his style is the simplicity of the designs, however thats also why I'm more keen on individual pieces from his collection rather then full looks or outfits.

after buying an assload of Raf items in the last couple of months and especially in the last couple of weeks, I realized I sort of misphrased what I said, so I'll try again.

from the items I've seen at stores, I've liked pretty much everything. its more the runway collections that are a bit over the top for me, but individual items I like a lot. everything from suits and shirts to jeans and tees are awesome and can be used to make some really cool outfits.

I tried on a suit today actually, but only ended up buying the blazer cause they didn't have pants in my size. last week while in Milan I grabbed a shirt, sweater and jeans which are one of my favorite pairs right now. same goes for the t-shirt and shorts I bought in the spring, some of my most used and favorite ones

[wEstSidE]

Is it cool to like Raf Simons? Where can I get his stuff?

I think some of his stuff is way cool. Blazers are sweet...I really like the techno fabric stuff.

[Fuuma]

'Raf by Raf Simons' City Shorts are really doing it for me and my hella sick buddies at the moment........' Raf' is the most awesome dude in the world imo, i love her and all of her work..many thanks to someone from here called rivvary or something for the 'headz up' and inspiration in the 'waywt' thread.

Look Michael, there are about 5000 retarded threads (they can be fun!) and maybe 3 serious ones a month, how about keeping your stupid jokes where they belong; in the retarded threads...

Sometimes it's intellectually stimulating to have a place where fashion can be discussed in a more analytical manner and I think that's what Servo is trying to do, so if you don't want to contribute, the rest of the forum is your oyster, but please keep out of here.

For the record I did not like Rirawin's fit with the Raf shorts; the black cap + black glasses and huge black sandals divided by white brought attention to his head and feet, making them look huge in relation to the rest of his body, the way his shorts were worn made his legs look stumpy (keep in mind the pic might also be to blame, although I doubt it, and that a lot of his fits are interesting and appreciated here).

[Analog]

I think that's one of the things I like most about Raf, is that he's not only selling a collection, but more than that a "lifestyle," and even more than that an attitude and a vision. That's what puts it on a higher level than typical "lifestyle" brands: the lifestyle he's selling is one that makes a statement in itself, rather than catering to an already existing demographic and merely convincing them that this is something they need.

Servo (or anyone else for that matter) can you please elaborate re: lifestyle? I agree/understand your statement re: attitude and vision, but I'd be interested in hearing what you mean by lifestyle.

For example, in your opinion is Raf asking questions about how we live and subsequently putting forth a vision of how we should live? Or are we talking about a designer's vision of how we should furnish our lives?

[Servo2000]

Servo (or anyone else for that matter) can you please elaborate re: lifestyle? I agree/understand your statement re: attitude and vision, but I'd be interested in hearing what you mean by lifestyle.

For example, in your opinion is Raf asking questions about how we live and subsequently putting forth a vision of how we should live? Or are we talking about a designer's vision of how we should furnish our lives?

First off, thanks to Mike for getting rid of that fellow's posts whilst I was away.

(note: I have literally twenty secvond to type this too much work right now so I'll try and clarify later)

Second off, I was using lifestyle as a 'culmination' of attitude and vision: in the same sense that Supreme is a 'lifestyle' brand. They aren't literally telling their customers how to live their lives, but they're catering to an idea. Raf Simons 'idea' represents a commentary and a suggestions: at its most basic it often seems to be an examination of youth, and youths place and effect in society: upon advertisers and marketers, adults, and so on. "The Fourth Sex" is a great example of this.

"... this exhibityion reflected on the universe of the teenger as seen, interpreted and defined by the world of fashion and contemporary art. Exploring the transitory and complex stage of adolescence and its influence on today's (visual) culture..."

So in one sense, he is reflecting on the nature of youth. As a designer, he caters to these, as I believe Thomas put it "young freaks" and outsiders who offers up as a rolemodel to youth and society, (more so in older collections). As he states, his "references to youth movements ... are not meant to be retrol instead Simons tries to translate their energy and determination into modern statements about independence."

What I question sometimes is that if it would make more sense to offer his more outlandish items at cheaper prices, because it seems that for his obsession with youth I know of next to none, that even if they desired to, would be able to afford his work. Personally, I'd wear nothing but Raf Simons if I could, and that would seem to go along with his goal, but alas I don't have that kind of money, so perhaps we youth aren't generally his market... or perhaps just a wealthier youth.

I think I got some of my point in there...

What do you think, Analog (or anyone else)? Am I way off base here? Am I giving him too much credit?

[still]

thought i'd contribute to this thread.

some photos from the book raf simons redux.

http://picasaweb.google.com/youngteams/RafSimons

and an archive of his collections and works.

http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/none/none/182/uk/works.html

[tweeds]

i have a question about the Raf Simons Redux book--what is its aim? is it just a photographic look at the world of Raf? the ideas of the man? because as a form of visual communication (i haven't bought the book, only flipped through it briefly at the bookshop, so please correct me, whoever has actually gotten the book) i find it a little disappointing, perhaps a result of its self-indulgent air...this was my initial and very superficial impression.

thoughts? i would love to find out more about Raf, to be honest, i don't know enough about the man himself nor his work.

[Servo2000]

Didn't see your question there, Tweedles.

I haven't seen the book in person, but I think its aim is literally just photographs and images from Raf Simons works / advertisements / etc. I think there's a few articles from people he respects, but I don't believe he was intending for it to be anything more than pleasing imagery and a brief glimpse into the world of Raf Simons.

The difficult aspect of his work for me is that it often seems fairly conceptual in that he's basing his work on ideas or art or music from others or from certain 'scenes,' but it's often not very obvious where the ideas are coming from.

For instance, I was recently looking through some of his shirts, which often are about as esoteric as can be as far as references go, and a friend of mine who happens to be a huge John Cage fan was sitting over my shoulder, noticed that one of them was a reference to a certain John Cage composition. As it was, it just looked completely random, and since there's often little-to-no explanation of his pieces, it can seem quite self-indulgent.

Again, I haven't seen the thing in person, but reading the summary of it and from personal experience that's what I would assume might be the problem.

[Analog]

...his "references to youth movements ... are not meant to be retrol instead Simons tries to translate their energy and determination into modern statements about independence."

I'm often skeptical about statements like these. For example, how are the "statements about independence" communicated? Is it through styling (runway shows, print ads, media collateral), or is it actually extant in the products? Or is it enough to assume that these ideas informed the designer's process?

At the root of this, for me, is the question of whether or not Fashion Design is capable of bearing the weight of a Big Idea; of sustaining it at a scale sufficient enough to have a transformative effect on our lives (lifestyles?).

---------------

In the case of Supreme, I don't see it as a Lifestyle Brand. I see it as an agglomeration of media signs recontextualized and severed from their original purpose/meaning. Fitting, perhaps, for our times, and understandably appealing to youth [sub-]cultures. However it seems to posit no ideas of its own.

.

[Servo2000]

I have similiar questions, Analog. I have my own views and for a few, perhaps, answers, but they've been quite thoroughly shared so far. I'd be interested to see if anyone else feels they have answers, because they seem like the sort of questions that aren't easily answered. It seems you're using them, perhaps, to point out some sort of fallacy, and logically so. Anybody?

[goldengloves]

Okay, so what happened. I thought this was designer of the week, not year....slackin' big time.

[Analog]

Zing !

[Servo2000]

Zing, indeed!

Finals, my friend. I have a couple started, so once I have some free time this weekend we shouldn't have this rather heinous glut. I'm tempted to wait until the next seasons shows start as well, to make it sort of a "grand superfashion re-opening."

[fade to black2]

conceptually, i think Raf is one of the most innovative and interesting designers...however in person I have a hard time with the actual fit off the rack. I've long accepted the conclusion that maybe Raf just doesn't design for my body type.

[goldengloves]

Ah yes, the good ol' finals time, gotta love it. Waiting for the new Spring collections might be a good idea seeing as they're gonna be here before you know it.

Your doing a find job though Servo.

[nairb49]

conceptually, i think Raf is one of the most innovative and interesting designers...however in person I have a hard time with the actual fit off the rack. I've long accepted the conclusion that maybe Raf just doesn't design for my body type.

I"m with you 100% fade. I've bought a number of blazers/pants, which all end up being sold due to fit. However, I love his ideas, and his concept.

And Servo, good luck on finals, keep up the great work.

[mike lowrey]

hmm, something I hadn't thought of before; is raf dutch or french speaking? just wondering how his name is pronounced correctly, would be a bit different if its french.

this popped up cause a friend asked what blazer I had and then asked where the designer is from. I've always pronounced his name close to how its written, which would probably be right if the name is dutch.