5EP goes the extra mile

[LeicaLad]

I'm not sure why 5EP, which has a strong following on the SF, is less beloved over here. BUT, I'll hope to contribute to a few people checking them out further.

My purpose here is to pass on a few extra good words about 5EP and Godmother, the CEO/Head designer, in particular.

About two months ago, I ordered a pair of the 5EP Straight Downs, taking advantage of the clearance price on the end of stock run. Please note that these generally always show up in the top 5 of nearly every Top Ten Denim lists.

Now, shipping to me is problematic, ‘cause it has to come via APO to reach me out here in the boondocks on the Afghan-Pakistan border. While I’d like to say that the APO system is good, I can’t! The package was stolen from the post. I'd like to say it was the only package stolen, but I can't: I've lost bunches -- including that cool Cone Mills "Found" book. It may well be that my Eternal 868s (the last pair of the Anniversary models) are also stolen... Grrrr.

Godmother, however, was not about to let me stay inadequately attired out here in Taliban Territory. She very quickly fired off a replacement pair. It was really fortunate that she had one last pair in my size. I will triple emphasize here that 5EP/she had ZERO obligation to do this. Normal postal systems offer tracking, but the APO is a black hole. On certain routes, it can be excellent, but to this neighborhood, it sucks. Even the replacement pair took an extra week over the two weeks I’d allotted in my head. Thus, I am really, really grateful to Godmother for her kindness. And I'm really happy to get them. These are fantastic!

Now, my review of the jeans will essentially repeat what most people who read the SF board already know: these are really, really nice jeans. The cut is perfect. Not skinny, but not baggy. These are NOT the anti-fit of my Sugar Canes, but are just as comfortable. The look good, but are not too skinny (which my body doesn't even allow).

Like everyone here, I love a new pair of jeans. I gotta put 'em on immediately. The day I got them (Tues), I wore them with a jacket to attend a Jirga of mullahs and ulemas in Peshawar. Of course, the entire gathering consisted of bearded men in turbans and traditional garb, no one particularly noticed my cool new jeans. As the only foreigner, they sure noticed me, tho! There should have been a couple other foreigners, but they all chickened out due to the huge bombing down the road earlier that afternoon. (Google News on Pakistan.)

Anyway, the Straight Down has a nice silhouette, but it is in the small details that it all comes together. The stitching, the deep and quality textile pocket bags, and, need I say it, the DENIM. This is not slubby stuff. (Frankly, while slubby has an interesting tactile appeal, it is also evidence of a lower quality thread and textile. It may be an interesting jean material, but it ain't high end.) No, this denim IS high end, and it has a dense, tight weave and a deep color. Yadda, yadda. I said I was preaching to the choir.

Now, in interest of fair disclosure, Godmother’s little boy & I share the same first name, and I have really enjoyed my communications with her. But, hey, that only adds to the wonderful sense of community that she and Hitman are supporting in this denim world.

SO, again, my incredibly gratitude to her generosity, and my vote for 5 EP to stay in your Top 5 (at the very least) of all Top 10 Denim Shortlists. These are fantastic jeans!

[Stratman]

Very cool post. I've been wanting to get a pair of 5EP's for awhile now. Everyone say's they are great jeans. I just can't decide between the straight downs or the Low down boot cuts. Your post really makes me want to get the straights. Be careful over there and keep your head down and your denim up! Peace.

[datasupa]

ok, i recently grabbed some 5ep low down boot one wash resins (courtesy of valgar). i wanted a bootcut to round out the collection, but after blowing out crotches in two nudie jeans (ralf and glenn), higher quality was a must. here are some initial impressions of the LDB:

-cut is great. very subtle bootcut, slim through the thigh, slightly higher rise than regular ralf, but very similar overall. basically a much better constructed version of the ralf.

-the denim is ultra smooth and dark. feels almost like chinos rather than jeans.

-the denim is slightly lighter in weight than sc47 or eternal 811. i suppose it might be good for the warmer months

-donut buttons on fly and detailing on top button is nice

-no-contrast stitching on the fly and back pocket is a little odd, but i understand these things stand out more after the denim starts to fade. +1 for subtlety i guess.

-front and back pockets are extra deep

-hidden coin pocket is unbelievably fucking annoying, especially if you wear a belt which covers it completely

-i understand the resins are pretty stubborn to fade but brian at the other SF has a pair that looks awesome after about 8 months

[dphi]

How much longer are you going to be stationed there? I think I'd hold off on ordering expensive pairs of jeans if shit keeps getting "lost" at the APO.

Anyway, I remember hearing some of the old RRLs were designed by some 5EP people (Godmother maybe?) Were they based on any of the current 5EP cuts or was it a one-off thing?

[LA Guy]

How much longer are you going to be stationed there? I think I'd hold off on ordering expensive pairs of jeans if shit keeps getting "lost" at the APO.

Anyway, I remember hearing some of the old RRLs were designed by some 5EP people (Godmother maybe?) Were they based on any of the current 5EP cuts or was it a one-off thing?

Godmother was the designer for RRL (incarnation one, not the current, resurrected RRL). A few years ago, she left RRL to start 5EP. This explains the similarities between the older RRLs and the 5EP jeans. As I understand, the 5EPs are not based on any RRL cuts per se, nor vice versa.

[cheep]

i think my cmf homme are godmother rrl.... made in use pre- japan fucked up sizing.

[jaspar]

Your endorsement is so educated and impassioned, I'll definitely now pay them more mind. Do they have a website?

But frankly, I was more interested to hear about your residence in 'taliban country' and all its tribulations. What do you do? Do you have a blog?

[bapelolol]

is the smallest size a 29 in the straights?

[LA Guy]

is the smallest size a 29 in the straights?

5EP sizes go from 28 to 38, for all their models except for the 5EP for Styleforum jean, which will have sizes 28-36. I believe that some size 27 were also produced, but I don't know if any are still available, nor if any stockist picked up that size.

[theetruscan]

Your endorsement is so educated and impassioned, I'll definitely now pay them more mind. Do they have a website?

But frankly, I was more interested to hear about your residence in 'taliban country' and all its tribulations. What do you do? Do you have a blog?

The military passed new restrictions on military blogging, effectively killing it, last week. All leaks are now through giraldo rivera if troop locations are secret, and Karl Rove if the subject is undercover for national security.

[LA Guy]

YDo they have a website?

The 5EP website is www.denimafia.com . It is sort of barebones. You can see the jeans at www.revolveclothing.com . Remarkably, they don't mess up the fits completely (unlike, say, KMW (oi), but my LDBs fit considerably slimmer than do theirs. The rigids should be sized down one unless you wash them in hot and do a machine dry immediately; the other washes should be purchased true to size (Godmother's recommendation and my experience.)

[wild_whiskey]

I love my 5EPs. They're about a year old now and by far my best pair that I've owned. BTW I'm Brian SD on Styleforum for those who didn't know. The color is great - a blend of natural and synthetic indigo is what creates the awesome variation in color hue between the dark and faded areas.

Anyway, just felt I should answer to this:

This is not slubby stuff. (Frankly, while slubby has an interesting tactile appeal, it is also evidence of a lower quality thread and textile. It may be an interesting jean material, but it ain't high end.)

I agree that the 5EP denim is beautiful stuff, but it's not necessarily true that slubby = lower quality. Slubby just indicates variation in the thickness of the warp thread, and is unrelated to the quality of the cotton.

Not sure if it's un-kosher to drop this down here, but for you guys interested in 5EP, we're doing a collabo with them at SF and the jeans will be out this summer. They'll be sold in several stores in the USA as well as on our website, thus they'll be available to everyone and not just SF members.

The cut will be similar to the low down boot, slightly slimmer in the seat and thighs, a lower rise, and a slightly tapered leg. The front pockets will be a bit more shallow and the back pockets slightly smaller.

So anyone interested in picking up some 5EPs might want to wait around just a couple more months here and pick up the SFx5EP jeans. They will not have any branding for Styleforum on them, just a stamp in the inside front pocket.

[aubrgene]

Count me in as a 5EP fan. I have both the bootleg and the straight leg resin. Awesome jeans. The color is also unique as it has almost a greenish cast to it.

[wild_whiskey]

Count me in as a 5EP fan. I have both the bootleg and the straight leg resin. Awesome jeans. The color is also unique as it has almost a greenish cast to it.

The straight down zips do have a green cast to the dye. Look at the fading on the inside pockets and you should see a distinct green color. The Low Down Boots are their standard indigo mix. Both are awesome.

[tangerine]

I will always put in my +1 for 5EP; I have the straight down zip/greencast and they are beautiful, comfortable jeans. Dense, soft denim with amazingly deep and rich color.

[cheep]

i wonder what godmother would think of a 5ep denim contest...

[LA Guy]

i wonder what godmother would think of a 5ep denim contest...

Actually, she has sort of suggested one to me, in passing. If there is enough interest, it could probably be arranged. We could do a Sufu/Steez I'm okay, you're okay, thing.

[LeicaLad]

Hmm. How about a SuFu / SF contest based on the collab jeans? The timing is good. There is already a fair amount of overlap between players on these two boards. The SuFu squad could be invited to examine the prototype / plans for the new jean and, if interest is there, we have a contest between the boards. (Of course some people would have to declare a loyalty to one board or the other for purposes of the “teamsâ€.) Not only is this cool, but it could be up and running within a month or so!

On the other stuff, I'll reply when I get a chance. I’ve been out here for a year and am sufficiently bored/fed up to be ready to split. I wanna go back to SE Asia, which is a much more pleasant place to live. I’ve posted chopper photos and longer threads about playing Taliban Target Practice in the “shoes†thread. For those so inclined.

[bapelolol]

whoa totally didn't know revolve picked up 5EP

[LA Guy]

whoa totally didn't know revolve picked up 5EP

Revolve is picking everything up, actually. Watch for Acne and Fillipa K come fall. There may be more of that ilk as well. It is becoming a giant, and already has amazing purchasing power.

[Dick Danger]

5EP sizes go from 28 to 38, for all their models except for the 5EP for Styleforum jean, which will have sizes 28-36. I believe that some size 27 were also produced, but I don't know if any are still available, nor if any stockist picked up that size.

I've never seen a 38 anywhere, but then I haven't really looked.

[shinobi2000]

i should take a picture of my bootcut pair. I now have 3 major pairs that have significant wear and tear -- Okinawas, 5EP, RRLs -- and the 5EPs are the deepest blue. It is indeed a very unique indigo blend they've got going there -- fades well, yet keeps it color well. They are light like my RRLs but they've held up better. My RRLs are already starting to rip at the crotch. I second every positive point made on this brand so far. My only gripe is I wish I had sized down, my 31 pair is now fitting like a 33 almost.

[RustyRyan]

I got a pair of 38's in both of the Straight and Low Boot Dark Worn when Leo of Miami had them on sale for $99. I wear my jeans a bit on the loose side, the quality and details on these jeans are amazing, but the cuts aren't my favorite. If I could get a pair cut like helmut lang's bootcut and 5ep's material, details and quality, it would be the the perfect pair of jeans...

[prima]

i wonder what godmother would think of a 5ep denim contest...

just started breaking in a new pair of jeans, but i would love a styleforum or superfuture 5EP denim contest. i've been a big fan of the company for awhile but the right opportunity has not yet come up to buy a pair.

[calatrava]

have a pair of the straight resins, and they are lovely. thing is that i havent noticed the green cast fading just yet, and i have been wearing them for 6 months already.

[Ispy]

Well, there ya have it. Another denim company enters my radar... Thanks for the post LeicaLad.

This is the best quote I've read all week:

I wore them with a jacket to attend a Jirga of mullahs and ulemas in Peshawar. Of course, the entire gathering consisted of bearded men in turbans and traditional garb, no one particularly noticed my cool new jeans.

[LA Guy]

have a pair of the straight resins, and they are lovely. thing is that i havent noticed the green cast fading just yet, and i have been wearing them for 6 months already.

You will , and the greencast will be more apparent after a wash. But the resins are pretty colorfast.

[LeicaLad]

Well, there ya have it. Another denim company enters my radar... Thanks for the post LeicaLad.

This is the best quote I've read all week:

Something about the power of context to make one’s fashion choices insignificant...

I’m intrigued by the mention of the Helmut Lang cut. There’s no way I’ll ever get my hands of a pair of these, but they are often mentioned as nearly perfect, both in cut and understated-ness. I think the 5EP are perfect in their attention to detail, the denim (the Denim!!!) and understated approach to markings. While I like the cut, I am curious if those who know could do a direct contrast in how the cut differs from the HL? I know Godmother is always open to suggestions on refinement.

As can see, I’m merely the newest member of this denim mafia fan club. The 5EP are clearly mandatory items in one’s denim collection. Perhaps the name IS right (Five easy pieces). Of course, for most of us, all five are jeans!

[aubrgene]

Something about the power of context to make one’s fashion choices insignificant...

I’m intrigued by the mention of the Helmut Lang cut. There’s no way I’ll ever get my hands of a pair of these, but they are often mentioned as nearly perfect, both in cut and understated-ness. I think the 5EP are perfect in their attention to detail, the denim (the Denim!!!) and understated approach to markings. While I like the cut, I am curious if those who know could do a direct contrast in how the cut differs from the HL? I know Godmother is always open to suggestions on refinement.

As can see, I’m merely the newest member of this denim mafia fan club. The 5EP are clearly mandatory items in one’s denim collection. Perhaps the name IS right (Five easy pieces). Of course, for most of us, all five are jeans!

I did a measurement comparison of my Helmut Lang Classic Denim/Classic Cut and 5EP.

Both are W 30 and this is what I got.

Rise on HL is 10 and 5ep is 11.

Back Rise on HL is 16, and 5ep is also 16.

Thigh on HL is 11.5 and 5ep is 11.5

Other than an inch difference on the rise of 5EP, other measurements are the same.

[champagne_bubblebath]

I've been wearing a pair of 5EP straight for about a year and a half. One wash. Color remains awesome, contrasting is coming on nicely. I should post pics, but I'm lazy.