Need help id these Lee's (early 90's repro?)

[lilldavid]

Got these ones at Beyond Retro a while ago, all they could tell me was that they are an early ninties repro of some 101Z. they didnt know what period they are supposed to replicate, or where they are made (doesnt say in the jeans either) maybe some of you guys can help?

Of course they are left hand...

thanks guys!

[Paul T]

They look like what Beyond Retro told you, ie they're the Lee European reissues. Made with fabric from Nisshinbo, I think. The earliest repros were sanforized, made in Eired - but, from memory, it would say Sanforized on the black tag. Yours have the pocket lining, though? The slightly later ones from the mid 90s were made in Malta but lacked the back pocket lining. I would guess yours are a transition between the two. The Euro repros were available up to about three years ago, and cost around £55 new. They are a generic repro of a 1951 jean; a fairly good cut, and they were definitely better than the first Levi's repros, but the best thing about them was definitely the fabric.

Below, apologies to these who've seen them a million times, are a few of the Eire and Malta-made ones for comparison.

[tweeds]

Below, apologies to these who've seen them a million times, are a few of the Eire and Malta-made ones for comparison.

happy to see them another million

so prior to the edwin repros, there was already a reissue line being made? was this in association, or directly by Lee?

[lilldavid]

Yes these ones have pocket lining in the back pockets.

Thanks a bunch Paul, always looking out for his not-so-educated fellow denim nerds

Btw your ones are really intense, it never gets dull seeing them!

[GregNYC]

Yes these ones have pocket lining in the back pockets.

Thanks a bunch Paul, always looking out for his not-so-educated fellow denim nerds

Btw your ones are really intense, it never gets dull seeing them!

Can you show a pic of the pocket lining? Fabric does look nice!

[Heartworm]

I actually picked up a pair of these and I wanted to make a post like this... Mine were new with tags though. Hope they'll turn out like Paul T's .

[Paul T]

so prior to the edwin repros, there was already a reissue line being made? was this in association, or directly by Lee?

they were made directly, by Lee Europe, overseen by the Brussels office. Pretty early on, same time or even before those first Levi's Capital E reissues. I was told by ttheir European head of design that those early repros were exprted to Japan, too, so my guess would be they might have predated the Edwin repros.

BTW, I checked my notes, FWIW that early, sanforized fabric came from Kaihara, not Nisshinbo - Kaihara still supply the Sanforized denim for the Levi's 505 and Lady Levi's repros.

[tweeds]

they were made directly, by Lee Europe, overseen by the Brussels office. Pretty early on, same time or even before those first Levi's Capital E reissues. I was told by ttheir European head of design that those early repros were exprted to Japan, too, so my guess would be they might have predated the Edwin repros.

BTW, I checked my notes, FWIW that early, sanforized fabric came from Kaihara, not Nisshinbo - Kaihara still supply the Sanforized denim for the Levi's 505 and Lady Levi's repros.

good to know!

is there a specific reason why Kaihara (and not Cone, esp. with levi's) supplies sanforised denim to two of the big three jeansmakers?

[lilldavid]

Can you show a pic of the pocket lining? Fabric does look nice!

there you go

[Paul T]

good to know!

is there a specific reason why Kaihara (and not Cone, esp. with levi's) supplies sanforised denim to two of the big three jeansmakers?

Well, Cone did scrap or sell some of their old looms, so I wonder if they sold some of the Sanforization equipment? That's if they had any, for it was Erwin Mills, who supplied Wrangler, who were best-known for Sanforized denim.

Cone's prime customers, Levi's, sold very few Sanforized jeans, and when washed jeans become more popular, Sanforization became less common.

Sanforization involves huge rollers, which stretch and stabilise the fabric, and I would guess the machinery is bulky, and that Kaihara are one of the few people who produce Sanforized, ring-ring narrow loom selvage denim. I don't know how much Sanforization is used for other cotton clothing and products though, I imagine it's more common for shirts and other items, but I'd be interested to know for sure.

[ang_kangkong]

Paul T!

Will there be any updates on your Lee? Have you been wearing any of these after the pics were taken?

[Paul T]

Paul T!

Will there be any updates on your Lee? Have you been wearing any of these after the pics were taken?

Well, I sold a few of the nicer ones, and kept one great pair of the early, Sanforized jeans, which is under the bed and worn every now and then. I have one unwashed pair, which I'm waiting on 'til I hit denim hard times. Then I have one pair a little bit newer than the ones shown, which I use for work around the house and scrubbing the bathroom floor, absolutely filthy with one little hole from when I stabbed my leg with an electric drill, but they look TERRIFIC, just like the ones you see itinerant farmers wearing in the FSA photos from the 30s....

[Charlie Delta]

absolutely filthy with one little hole from when I stabbed my leg with an electric drill, but they look TERRIFIC, just like the ones you see itinerant farmers wearing in the FSA photos from the 30s....

^After that discriptioin you can't not post pics of that pair Paul, you know that!

[deadpan]

Posted these in the evolution thread before I knew this one existed, so appologies if you've seen them already. I didn't do the fade, but picked them up in a charity shop as they kinda fit ( short inseam so I have to wear 'em low) and the fade was nice.