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waywt? saved my life


sycamore no more

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(by the way, can someone tell me what's the difference between accordion pleats and fortuny pleats if any? i tried reading up but was confused. what would the pleats on this scarf be?)

Soepom,

I've owned and handled a couple of delphos gowns and some of fortuny's other work. the distinguishing characteristic to a fortuny pleat is that it is very fine pleating done in silk and permanently holds crisp shape. the way permanent silk pleating was done has unfortunately been lost with mariano fortuny's death - the only patent he left as a clue to the method were a series of clay rollers, but exact way they were used hasn't been discovered to date, though if you look at the background and his other inventions, it was most likely a process by which the fabric was stressed through treatments enough to separate the threads in the folds. He also did crazy shit like overdye something two dozen times to achieve some of his colours. Anyway, its kind of a fun subject.

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