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"21 Oz/" Selvedge Denim


Guest Guy H

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Guest Guy H

Sorry if this has been asked before etc...

With regards to the 'weight' when denim is quoted what exactly is it refering to? I presume it's the weight of the thread used? Is this the case?

also what is considered the best then? I've seen 14 Oz mentioned etc. What would be considered better 14 or 21? For what reasons? or what are the benefits of the weight?

thanks

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Denim is usually measured by "Ounce per square yard". So 21oz is how much a square yard of that particular fabric would weight unwashed.

After washing fabrics often get heavier, despite perhaps losing sizing and dye during wash, because the shrinkage causes the weave to become more dense and thus gain weight (per square yard/metre).

14oz versus 21oz - there is no better fabric per se. It all depends on your application. 21oz will be stronger, but also heavier, stiffer, harder to sew, possibly more expensive and depending on climate, less comfortable. In hot climates, 8-12oz may be preferable to 14oz. It just depends what you need.

I think the fact that 14oz is such a commonly used weight shows that it's been a proven jack-of-all-trades over decades of use.

Edited by ringring on Jul 20, 2005 at 07:01 AM

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I'm told by owners of 21oz jeans, that they 'feel like wearing leather trousers'. I've not yet seen the Iron Hearts first hand, but I have handled the 21oz's from Studio D'Artisan numerous times, and yes they are heavy, but not as intimidating as I'd imagined. Good, tough, cold weather jeans.

I like the Iron Hearts. Worth a punt I'd say. If you get some, keep us posted.

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Guest Guy H

emailed the guy who's bringing them to the Uk.

few links...

http://www.works-corp.com/iron/others/index.html

I like the jacket as well.

I'd go for the straight cut ones.

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.works-corp.com%2Firon%2Ftwenty_one%2Findex.html&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

Yeah they would be for wear in the winter over here.

I'll let you know how I go on icon_smile.gif

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Denim seems to be getting a reputation for being 'better' the heavier it is, but I can tell you that constuction matters more. The first Levis were 9oz ecru selvege, the Cone Levis shortly after were 10oz reds. When Levis was doing their famous 1947 501 silouette, Wrangler had their 13oz MWZ.

21 oz could be pretty amazing, but so could 10, 14,13 and so on...

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Just to add to the discussion about denim weights - 21oz is very much bucking the global trend, which in recent years has been a return* towards lighter weight denims (10-12oz). eg. 45rpm's 9.5oz BG4000 denim range.

Actually 'bucking' may be an understatement. More like giving it the bird lol. And that's what makes them interesting.

*early Levi's selvage denims were 9 & 10oz.

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when amoskeag milled levis denim they produced 9oz ecru selvage. cone came around and put out the 10oz redline that we all know. lee had some 13oz for their 'riders', the boken twill wranglers of the 'mw' generation were 13s too...

myself i've never actually seen a 21 oz denim, but now that its a topic i'd certainly like too..

i'll agree with blanco and everyone that said similar things, that mid-weights are the most popular - both now and before

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I would imagine 21 oz denim to be overkill. I guess they would be OK if I lived in Alaska, but in California you would probably be very uncomfortable in those jeans.

I agree that lighter denim is "drapier" and left hand twill"lee" is drapier. I like starchy and stiff jeans, 12-13 oz suit me just fine.

Carpe Denim!

1112885282366_selvage1_edited.JPG

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Guest Guy H

I've had a quote from the guy who can supply these jeans but he is waiting for them to come in. He is also going back to Japan soon so depending on the timing I may have to wait for them. He has quoted me a price for them so I think I'll get a pair to see what they are like. I'll report back if people are interested?

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If you want a drapier denim, but don't want to sacrifice weight, I would go with a LHT, like Serge said. A left hand twill is inherently softer and drapier than a RHT. Left Hands were really trending for a season or two (Gap's ad campaign in JP and Europe/UK was all about "left-hand, right-softness" or some bullshit like that), but have seemed to be waning now....

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I haven't ever heard of 21oz jean either. I thought they didn't make it heavyer up tp 15oz..

I would love the have a selvage jeans heavyer than 14oz, but I wouldn't know where to get those..

I looked at the link, those 21oz jeans sure look allright! Not very comfort but that will come with the years don't you think?

denim is a passion

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Guest Guy H

I'm waiting to hear from the guy who will sell me these. He's in Japan at the minute so I'll get mine when he gets back. once i do I'll post my opinion and can hook you up with his details if required.

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

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Guest Guy H

He should be back soon. final price to be sorted. will post info once I have it

I spent a lot of of money on booze, birds and

fast cars. The rest I just squandered - George Best

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