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I've got another noob question:

So i've pretty much been using skids to stop and removed my break. I've noticed though, that once I start moving foward again, it feels like my cranks skip for a second. I've also noticed that my crank arms seem to be farther away from the frame then they were before i started this practice. Am I stripping the bottom bracket? Or perhaps my cranks? Maybe both?

I'll be upgrading this coming up week but Id like to know for future reference.

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Have a shop check it out.

It could be this, that or the other thing, but only your mechanic will know the exact problem.

Does anyone else have a "relationship" with their mechanics? I hate going in when they're not in, because:

1) the other dudes are awkward, thinking I'm a noob when I've been going to the shop for the last couple of years. On and off, but still. I don't really enjoy having the new dude look at my sweet fixie and think that I just have a sweet fixie. I GOT DEM SKIDZ TOO DU.

2) They're just easier to talk to, about the work you need done. Other guys are like "uhhhh, let me check with _____."

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Have a shop check it out.

It could be this, that or the other thing, but only your mechanic will know the exact problem.

Does anyone else have a "relationship" with their mechanics? I hate going in when they're not in, because:

1) the other dudes are awkward, thinking I'm a noob when I've been going to the shop for the last couple of years. On and off, but still. I don't really enjoy having the new dude look at my sweet fixie and think that I just have a sweet fixie. I GOT DEM SKIDZ TOO DU.

2) They're just easier to talk to, about the work you need done. Other guys are like "uhhhh, let me check with _____."

buy a tool kit and learn how to wrench your own bike

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I've got another noob question:

So i've pretty much been using skids to stop and removed my break. I've noticed though, that once I start moving foward again, it feels like my cranks skip for a second. I've also noticed that my crank arms seem to be farther away from the frame then they were before i started this practice. Am I stripping the bottom bracket? Or perhaps my cranks? Maybe both?

I'll be upgrading this coming up week but Id like to know for future reference.

Doubt it would be the bottom bracket...

This is most likely going to be a problem with the cog and the rear hub. Your cog might not be tightened properly OR is slipping/stripping the thread.

If it is a cheap wheelset/rear hub this is probably your problem.

In regards to the cranks, they might just need a bit of a tighten.

Best idea as stunt said is to take it into your LBS.

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Have a shop check it out.

It could be this, that or the other thing, but only your mechanic will know the exact problem.

Does anyone else have a "relationship" with their mechanics? I hate going in when they're not in, because:

1) the other dudes are awkward, thinking I'm a noob when I've been going to the shop for the last couple of years. On and off, but still. I don't really enjoy having the new dude look at my sweet fixie and think that I just have a sweet fixie. I GOT DEM SKIDZ TOO DU.

2) They're just easier to talk to, about the work you need done. Other guys are like "uhhhh, let me check with _____."

Absolutely with you on that one.. i've gotten so much free stuff and free labor just cos i made friends with the manager at this shop, i mean i didnt expect to get free shit, but he's just a rad person.

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So it was the lock ring on my shitty rear wheel. The guy at the shop tightened everything up for me but its already starting to happen again after about 50 miles.

Any recommendation for a rear wheel or combination of wheel, cog and lock ring?

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noob question: I picked up a 2010 Schwinn Madison over the weekend for 750AU (not the best deal I realise but wanted to support the LBS). Having slight regrets now that I can get this (http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Fixed-Gear-Bike-Cell-Cileto-2010) for the same price. Is it worth bothering to trade up for the specs (lugged frame, Sugino crank, hub)? No idea either on how the rims compares between the Alexrims G6000 on the Schwinn and what's on the Cell.

I also realised that on the Schwinn, I'll sometimes hit my feet against the front wheel as I'm turning, which makes me kinda sad. All things considered, should I bother doing a swap?

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Chucks. I've ridden mine through hell. The toe cap somewhat helps preventing the toe clips from hurting the instep of your foot.

Anyone know anyone or read anything about Mission Workshops Rondels? I really want a non bike shoe, looking shoe for clipless riding.

i read on a bikeforums thread about some DRZ! they work with SPD pedals

strasse-medium.jpg

http://dzrshoes.com/product/strasse/

theres a link to the DRZs, &...

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?680680-New-Clipless-shoes-for-everyday-wear-by-DRZ/page3

heres a link to the thread.

there was a feud about the rondels and the drzs, how rodels were/were not being overpriced or something. i suppose its just a matter of opinion

oh & this video is cool!

http://vimeo.com/10516263

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Had my first wipeout today and it was epic. I was going about 20mph down the path of the light rail and in a moment of lost concentration i drifted over to the side a bit and my front tire went right into the grove the light rail travels on and i got bucked about 5-10ft.

I got right up like a champ, dusted off the bike and rode about 45 minutes back home. I felt fine for about 20 minutes then my wrist started killing me. Turns out I broke it.

As i sit here on my couch high as fuck on vics (from the dr) and weed (from the other dr) all I can think about is how I'm going to bomb around town with 1 hand. Theres no way I'm going to stop riding, its just getting fun :)

edit: f what i said earlier this hurts soooo much now.

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So it was the lock ring on my shitty rear wheel. The guy at the shop tightened everything up for me but its already starting to happen again after about 50 miles.

Any recommendation for a rear wheel or combination of wheel, cog and lock ring?

You just need to get a new/decent quality hub.

It's the quality of the hub's cog thread and lockring thread.

The cog and lock ring dont have much to do

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I done been had tools. There's just some labor I trust a mechanic with. I've had bottom bracket/cog problems from bikes that other people thought they could work on. Shops have more bike tools and other equipment than I'd ever have or want to have.

every problem has a solution bro, don't be lazy

between

Park Tools and Sheldon Brown websites, there is nothing you can't fix

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Noshit.

You wanna gimme cash for a bottom bracket tool? Ima need a spanner wrench as well. How about a that fork tool that they use to remove stripped cranks? Oh you ain't hurdadat? Oh yeah, Ima need leverage so I need that thangamajang to extend on an oversized torque wrench. Wait, I need one of dem too.

Oh, I also need a headset pull and a headset press. A thread chaser as well. Also lemme get some compressed air.

I probably have more tools than you do. I patch tubes, cuz those who don't are lazy. No matter how much people want to deny it. I thoroughly inspect, degrease, grease, and re-install parts on my bike, to keep them in good shape.

But guess what, there are still things I trust mechanics with, and don't have the tools for.

You're just a dumbass, kid.

And cogs and lockrings DO make a difference.

Cheaper cogs and lockrings threadings are cheaper and can strip the hub. Hubs don't strip on their own, it takes two. Not one or the other. Also, some cogs and lockrings threads are closer/further apart than the threads on the hubs. Making them thread incorrectly.

Someone neg this kid.

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Noshit.

You wanna gimme cash for a bottom bracket tool? Ima need a spanner wrench as well. How about a that fork tool that they use to remove stripped cranks? Oh you ain't hurdadat? Oh yeah, Ima need leverage so I need that thangamajang to extend on an oversized torque wrench. Wait, I need one of dem too.

Oh, I also need a headset pull and a headset press. A thread chaser as well. Also lemme get some compressed air.

I probably have more tools than you do. I patch tubes, cuz those who don't are lazy. No matter how much people want to deny it. I thoroughly inspect, degrease, grease, and re-install parts on my bike, to keep them in good shape.

But guess what, there are still things I trust mechanics with, and don't have the tools for.

You're just a dumbass, kid.

And cogs and lockrings DO make a difference.

Cheaper cogs and lockrings threadings are cheaper and can strip the hub. Hubs don't strip on their own, it takes two. Not one or the other. Also, some cogs and lockrings threads are closer/further apart than the threads on the hubs. Making them thread incorrectly.

Someone neg this kid.

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Noshit.

You wanna gimme cash for a bottom bracket tool? Ima need a spanner wrench as well. How about a that fork tool that they use to remove stripped cranks? Oh you ain't hurdadat? Oh yeah, Ima need leverage so I need that thangamajang to extend on an oversized torque wrench. Wait, I need one of dem too.

Oh, I also need a headset pull and a headset press. A thread chaser as well. Also lemme get some compressed air.

I probably have more tools than you do. I patch tubes, cuz those who don't are lazy. No matter how much people want to deny it. I thoroughly inspect, degrease, grease, and re-install parts on my bike, to keep them in good shape.

But guess what, there are still things I trust mechanics with, and don't have the tools for.

You're just a dumbass, kid.

And cogs and lockrings DO make a difference.

Cheaper cogs and lockrings threadings are cheaper and can strip the hub. Hubs don't strip on their own, it takes two. Not one or the other. Also, some cogs and lockrings threads are closer/further apart than the threads on the hubs. Making them thread incorrectly.

Someone neg this kid.

you fix your own tooooobz? Congratulations, kid.

add up all the cash you've spent on labour, and i'm sure this is cheaper

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SBTOKNNBT/title/super-b-33pc-bike-tool-box

that will cover all your bike needs. need to install a headset? get a piece of wood and a hammer. torque wrench is overkill if you aren't retarded.

I think you will find that if the cheaper cog or lock rings threads were 'cheaper' aka poor quality, then they would most likely strip before the hub's threads. You are however correct in saying that they can seat incorrectly but this is usually down to user error.

'somebody neg this kid'

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Noshit.

You wanna gimme cash for a bottom bracket tool? Ima need a spanner wrench as well. How about a that fork tool that they use to remove stripped cranks? Oh you ain't hurdadat? Oh yeah, Ima need leverage so I need that thangamajang to extend on an oversized torque wrench. Wait, I need one of dem too.

Oh, I also need a headset pull and a headset press. A thread chaser as well. Also lemme get some compressed air.

I probably have more tools than you do. I patch tubes, cuz those who don't are lazy. No matter how much people want to deny it. I thoroughly inspect, degrease, grease, and re-install parts on my bike, to keep them in good shape.

But guess what, there are still things I trust mechanics with, and don't have the tools for.

You're just a dumbass, kid.

And cogs and lockrings DO make a difference.

Cheaper cogs and lockrings threadings are cheaper and can strip the hub. Hubs don't strip on their own, it takes two. Not one or the other. Also, some cogs and lockrings threads are closer/further apart than the threads on the hubs. Making them thread incorrectly.

Someone neg this kid.

you fix your own tooooobz? Congratulations, kid.

add up all the cash you've spent on labour, and i'm sure this is cheaper

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SBTOKNNBT/title/super-b-33pc-bike-tool-box

that will cover all your bike needs. need to install a headset? get a piece of wood and a hammer. torque wrench is overkill if you aren't retarded.

I think you will find that if the cheaper cog or lock rings threads were 'cheaper' aka poor quality, then they would most likely strip before the hub's threads. You are however correct in saying that they can seat incorrectly but this is usually down to user error.

'somebody neg this kid'

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No, I think you have a better bike. Those Modolo stems suck, rims are heavy, and threadless headsets are far better than threaded.

What you've got also is called toe-overlap, and even occurs on the highest end of bikes and depends on sizing and how the manufacturer defined the steering. The cure is riding faster and learning how to avoid it when going slow, it is not a problem once you become accustomed to it.

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