Slash Overalls

[Broark]

Slash Overalls is a one man brand operating in Shizuoka Japan, and has been operating since around ~2021.
Originally he started offering custom jeans, allowing his customers to pick various details: denim, pocket and yoke shape, pocket bag fabrics, cut, etc.
Most of these jeans were loosely based on different historical eras that we all know and love. However they were not always marketed as strict reproductions, but more creative interpretations.
Many of these had (quite distinct) arcs, which he has since moved away from. Below are a few examples of his earlier offerings ('37, '40s, late 1890s Miner Jeans).

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram)

He also ran a series of "grunge models", which had more irregular sewing features. These might seem haphazard, but as mentioned in his blog post the irregular sewing details are intentional and quite difficult to reproduce.

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

In his pursuit of creating a more accurate repro, he graduated to working directly with denim mills on developing his own fabrics to use.
With this change in production mentality, he stopped offering custom made jeans and began releasing products in batches. 
I can't quite figure out the exact rhyme or reason to how each different batch aligns which the denim used, but they are all slight variations.
One of the first offerings was the LF44, then NP01, SO02 (aka NP02,), and SL01 (developed in collaboration with Okamoto Textile Co.).
LF44: 
LF44, aged: 
NP01: 
NP01, 1 year of wear: 
SO02: 
SL01: 
(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog and Instagram)
The last two are more recent releases (late '24), and thus I don't think I've seen any faded photos yet.

As seen above, he also makes a few variations of denim jackets, mostly inspired by WWII models and late 40's type I's.
One interesting aspect of the way he sizes and grades the patterns for his denim jackets is that he does not adjust the body or sleeve length for larger sizes.
He doesn't list the body or sleeve length on product pages, and says that one should be able to size his jackets based on chest and shoulder measurements.
I've seen an Instagram post where he states this is how Levi's used to pattern and size their jackets, but I personally am not sure if this is 100% accurate.
I haven't gotten one of the jackets yet, but I'm hoping to add one in the future.



(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram and IG user oto_ten)

Alongside his mainline jeans, his most recent undertaking is the XX Grade project.
Focusing on reproducing jeans in the most accurate way possible, down to the materials used. These have only just started to be released, but my understanding is that he has been working with different machinists to recreate the machinery used in creating vintage two prong buttons. This line carries a steep price tag, but I haven't been able to track down a pair myself...yet. 


(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

He also has been working on a line of "vintage aged" denim, assuming this is a similar oxidation process that we've seen from some other makers previously.
This line has yet to be released, but I'm interested in the results once he is ready to release the finished product.

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

[Broark]

Been meaning to get this thread started for a little while, was just waiting for my second pair to arrive.
The first pair (which was previously posted in the Unknown JP brands thead), was produced in the later half of '23 using the LF44 denim.
This second pair (which I just received over the weekend) are made using the SO02 denim and are similarly based on a '47.

The one thing that I find very interesting and hard to describe with this jeans is the "three-dimensionality" that you can feel in all the folds where different layers of fabric intersect.
He mentions it often on his blog and Instagram, but there's something about it in person that is very unique.








And here's some comparison shots, I haven't washed the SO02 yet and I've been wearing the LF44 a bit.

[Lorcan]

Awesome. Nice to see the comparison between the different denims.  I have a pair of the jeans on the way that I found on Mercari - I'm hoping they're the same denim as my S06 jacket (which I think is LF44) but I'm not sure.

[Broark]

11 minutes ago, Lorcan said:

Awesome. Nice to see the comparison between the different denims.  I have a pair of the jeans on the way that I found on Mercari - I'm hoping they're the same denim as my S06 jacket (which I think is LF44) but I'm not sure.

Looking forward to seeing them once you get them in. Post some photos and I might be able to help!
Honestly it's pretty hard to track down specific details on each denim since he doesn't directly sell to us international folks.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks for posting!

How are his patterns? What are the measurements?

[Broark]

28 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

How are his patterns? What are the measurements?

Posted the pre and post wash measurements for the LF44 model previously, reposting them below.

LF44
Unwashed
Waist: 38 in.
Front rise: 14 in.
Back rise: 17.75 in. 
Thigh: 14.5 in.
Knee: 11 in.
Hem: 10 in.
Inseam: 32 in. 

Warm soaked for an hour and then a quick trip through the washing machine on cold / gentle cycle.
Waist: 36 in.
Front rise: 13.25 in.
Back rise: 17 in.
Thigh: 14 in.
Knee: 10.5 in.
Hem: 9.5 in.
Inseam: 30 in.

I haven't washed the SO02 yet, but I'll likely get around to it this weekend and will post pre and post wash measurements.
I'll also get around to some fit pics, been recovering from a bug the last few days so I haven't been wearing jeans at all lately. 
I find that I really like the fit of the LF44 pair: ample rise, plenty of room in the legs, accessible front pocket openings. They just feel like a solid pair of jeans.
The LF44 denim feels much more dense and fluffy, while the SO02 feels more irregular (pre-wash, at least) and has a bit more nep (especially on the weft).