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thinkfilm28

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those look great, thank you for the link. interesting sugarcane releases some stuff much quicker. love the cut on the 1944s. cant wait for the ranch blouse and the shipyar chinos. great stuff this fall. just ordered the mulholand master.

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I really like the blue and the black chambray. Sizing for the blue chambray is pretty crazy though; im a size small in MF but with this shirt i'll need a medium or even a llarge might still work out. It'll need to wait anyway because im completely broke from purchasing the road champs

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每年的這個季節最適合開始準備冬季的服裝,騎車時幾乎必備的皮衣絕對是需要事先處理的要項

家裡的溼度偏高,即使去年已經妥善的用不織布防塵套,外加乾燥劑收妥皮衣

今年一拿出來仍然在皮衣外表出現輕微的霉斑(圖一)

(即使沒有發霉這個時間點也是保養皮衣的最佳時刻)

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像圖二這個程度的霉斑程度是最經常出現在皮衣、皮件上的現象

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圖三的五項物品是基本保養皮衣使用的利器

乾棉布

用於擦拭霉斑、髒污、多餘的油脂、乾燥後的蠟質

水蠟

用於清除皮革表面的霉斑,並且水蠟本身帶有研磨效果可以在擦拭皮革表面後讓皮面更容易吸收稍後擦拭於皮面的保養油

並且可以將氧化的五金回覆光澤

獸毛刷

用於皮革上油的前後,上油前獸毛刷可以將皮面作最後清潔並增加皮革吸收油脂的速度

上油後(當多餘的油脂以乾布擦拭乾淨並風乾一段時間後使用)使用獸毛刷將皮面刷過一次

可以利用獸毛本身的鱗狀組織將皮革表面打亮

保養油

可以依照皮革材質、乾燥程度,自行選擇液狀或者油膏狀保養油

主要功能在補充皮革水分,特別是曾經發霉的皮革會很需要適度吸收保養油

但不建議使用於麂皮、反皮面

潤滑油

用於皮衣、皮件上的五金潤滑

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保養程序,首先如圖四先使用乾布(或者半乾棉布)將皮面的髒污、霉斑擦除

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如圖五配合水蠟的使用可以加強清潔與去霉斑的效果

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(圖六、七、八)這種有安裝拉鍊部位的周圍縫隙和車縫線的位置是特別容易發霉並且被忽略的位置

在做清潔工作時必須特別注意

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等到皮面可見的霉斑都已經擦拭乾淨並且整個皮衣表面都擦拭過後

再使用毛刷仔細將皮面刷過一次(圖九)

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接下來可以直接用手將保養油塗抹於皮面上並且均勻將保養油推開

方式就如同平時身體擦拭乳液一般(如圖十、十一)

直接用手塗抹保養油的好處是手掌本身不易吸油因此不易浪費保養油,且細節部位不易疏忽

並且可以叫平均的將保養油擦拭於皮面上

接著同樣用手掌將油脂推開,手掌的體溫也會加速皮面對於保養油的吸收

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皮面均勻擦拭保養油後建議靜置至少30分鐘讓皮革充分吸收油脂,接著再使用乾布經皮面無法攜手的多餘油脂擦拭乾淨

然後再將皮衣靜置30 分鐘以上

再使用毛刷將皮面均勻的刷過一次

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如圖十二就是皮面充分吸收保養油並且使用毛刷刷過後的質感

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上圖十三以皮衣中央接縫線作分隔,上半部是沒有經過上油及毛刷處理而下半部是經過上油及毛刷處理的比較

可以看出光澤感的差異性

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最後可以在各處皮衣上五金部份的活動關節處或者需要彈性作動的部份(如四合釦內側彈簧)

少許噴上一點點潤滑油(圖十四)讓穿著使用時更方便

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最後完成保養(圖十五)建議在通風陰涼處吊掛一週後就可以穿了

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Chambray shirts in blue and red and Paletot Diable in Black or Off-White just got shipped to stores, these were standout items from the collection when i saw it all in Tokyo in the spring. He killed it on the Paletot.

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The waiting for Road Champs is kinda killing me. Anyone know of anywhere in the USofA that has them in a size 7 currently in stock?

I hope you can get a pair soon; mine should be arriving in the next week or two...

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was that after the allnighter markus. actually we should go dancing next time i am in hamburg. did you see the movie souldboy?

and farhad i know i am superlate to that but just saw the pics of the selfedge party in june, love em, specially the ones with christophe and larry from hellers cafe talking!

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almostnice, how do I get my rider's to look like that? Outside of taking up welding... What kind of wear/(non-river) wash?

Just buy a second-hand pair like almostnice. That way all the hard work's done for you but you can still lap up all the credit! :)

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almostnice, how do I get my rider's to look like that? Outside of taking up welding... What kind of wear/(non-river) wash?

easy one. just have some beers from, lets say 15.00 - 19.00, walk relaxed along the pier, take a little sidestep and there you go. little hint: look out for a ladder next to you before you fiddle around with a useless drunken Mancunian for 10 minutes,

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Hmmm, more of a 20's 30's French worker look, but if you say so....

I was referring more to the style of the shot and not the time frame of the clothing... hence the "Film Noir" which would refer to a visual style.

Either way, I like the picture.

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Watched How to Make It in America last night for the first time in ages. The main character was wearing a black breezer. I couldn't tell if it was the Midnight version. I noticed the red buttons and plaid detailing on the collar. Based on the wardrobe for the show I having a feeling this was purchased from J Crew. Nice to see that jacket getting some love.

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