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bill

Gosha Rubchinkiy S/S 15 - Paris

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Don't see the appeal with Gosha at all, if any of these pieces were by themselves at tj maxx or marshalls they wouldn't sell. The cutting is not intricate, the materials are ho-hum. I get that it lends itself to the russian youth aesthetic that everybody is after right now but honestly why not just wear mismatched thrift if you want to emulate that style. I guess to say something good about gosha, the alien knit is pretty dope.

Edited by Fycus

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i guess yeah, you could draw parallels from this to raf circa. 99-00 and you could criticise gosha for pushing a collection that could be said to be lacking in new ideas.

 

not a fan of the heavy reliance on the sweatpants in much of the looks. and in between realising gosha was gonna' show and seeing it, i was hoping to see him make some knitwear, which to me, he is good at.  but even in such a collection (where you might push the words bland/stale/normal), the shape on the suit jackets, outerwear and those straight leg pants are things i'm taking a strong liking too.

 

rather this bland than the blandness jil's new team is pushing.

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It's probably really stupid of me to criticize this, because it's such a staple of fashion design (especially Raf whom he gets compared to the most), but it feels incredibly lazy to basically rip off how certain Russians youth cultures dress and then sell it for hundreds of dollars. I wonder if anyone would care about him at all if it wasn't for the general attention Russian culture has been getting in the past few years(Pussy Riot, homophobia etc.) Of course Rubchinskiy is not just a fashion designer and I can appreciate what he's doing from a conceptual point of view, but the clothes themselves are simply boring. I'm really excited to see how much the prices will skyrocket due to the hype surrounding him right now, though.

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I'm honestly loathe to say that he's doing a bad thing by bringing, in this case, post-Soviet Russian youth into a fashion spotlight. It's a pretty good rendition of it as far as I can see, and besides that it looks alright. I don't necessarily know that it's lazy either because to me fashion is, in a lot of cases, and especially here, an aspirational take on a culture. I know for a fact that those truly into grimy, anti-establishment punk would not be buying Raf or the scores of other designers who have given their take on those people. It's not to say that no rocker would buy designer-tagged pieces aimed at their culture, but more to say that fashion in a lot of cases is pandering to people who want to emulate that culture. 

 

Also, I hope they don't, and don't know that they will become all that much more, because paying a lot for something that most people who are the inspiration for this style don't is a really weird dilution of fashion.

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Definitely not his strongest collection, and arguably his weakest, but I am slightly curious to see if the cyrillic text shirt of gosha isn't incredibly expensive. I have a weird thing going for that shirt in blue. 

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