Rick Owens mens F/W 14 - Paris

[bill]

http://vimeo.com/84514387

 

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Photography by Lea Colombo for Dazed.
 

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[madame twerq]

Crust x Strutter x Lamy 88 with a really sophisticated color palette. And some testosterone-fueled drag queeniness. This is a huge step forward from men's Vicious.

[cheapmuthafukr]

Du-rags

[Gaspardd]

Great to see Footwork getting some love in the fashion world, especially one of the greatest producers in the game, RP Boo (buuuuu)

 

Edited January 17, 2014 by Gaspardd

[jamokes]

 

Crust x Strutter x Lamy 88 with a really sophisticated color palette. And some testosterone-fueled drag queeniness. This is a huge step forward from men's Vicious.

 

no one seems to be particularly thrilled by this show, but it scratched every itch vicious left me with

[madame twerq]

It's the best that I've seen so far and I don't expect anything coming up to change my mind. It's actually a lot more erotic than vicious was, even without any thigh werq.

 

[bill]

my initial reaction that was something around the lines of 'oh no not spring 11 again but in all brown' quickly changed for 'fuck yeah priest/egyptian headwear'
while scrolling through the pictures, i felt this collection was safe, but also that it was too soon for me to forge my opinion, so i gave it a bit of time.
the chosen colours are quite pleasing after his almost-all-black vicious one.
i see new designs and updates of previous ones, lots of accessories (bracelets and scarves) and lots of sleeves. does it feel like a fall/winter collection to me? yes. ice cold north american winters are not common in europe and you can easily deal with the coldest months by layering two or three pieces and a scarf.
this feels, to me, as the wardrobe of a nomad. many pockets and roomy clothes. it also screams protection to me, not only because of the vests (that would be the last thing on that list), but mostly because of the headwear, scarves and and space between clothes and the body who's inside of them.

this collection was described by many as a rap/hiphop/hood/gangster collection and i can see it, but Rick also knows his fanbase is composed by different people from different cultures and spheres. some aren't happy about the latest addition to his fanbase and this might be his way to laugh at the angry goths... i would not be surprised if the garments were styled one size bigger on the models...

it also follows his vicious proposal, but the headwear and scarves remind me of the nuns he sent down the catwalk a few years ago... and i'm deeply hoping for him to give me those nuns, again, next march.

[schmoses]

hmmm...does the initial ss11 comparison stem from the simplicity (a sweater, a short) of most looks? or specifically from the shorts/long boots proposal?
 

my initial reactions were three in total. the first was "wimple me this, rick?" i love a dorky pun. the second was "this all looks so comfy." more on that in a minute. the third was "rO-tang clan ain't nuthin to f*ck with." see first reaction's reason.
 

all of those quilted, double-faced woolen, and leather onesies had me thinking cozy, comfortable protection. protection from what? the wimples suggest sinners and project sanctity. the (sometimes) furry bulletproof gilets reinforce this proposal. the dichotomy of wimple and leather suggest an inner struggle with duality and subjugation. rick owens is a tough nut to crack so we can only know with show notes.
 

his silhouette seems a continuation from 'vicious' but with a/w fabrics instead. that bit was unsurprising. the colour palette was mildly shocking. the assault of chocolate browns on opulent wools and long boots had me thinking givenchy a/w 11 done correctly. a colour on textile that speaks loudly for itself...and thankfully, bark free. i do appreciate the colour selections he proposed. the white seems more austere than usual which reinforces the protection point home. do not ever come near me in cold weather. ever.
 

this might be completely off base so neg rep if you must. the owens label is growing rapidly. i'm not sure we've ever seen these fabrics rendered on his mens side. the gentleman-ly woolens, satin scarves, total wear leather, and stiff silks make me think about the italian dandies we see on streetstyle tumblrs. i wonder if rick was thinking about his version of the madison avenue "businessman," or his italian leather dandy.
 

was it the best owens mens since exploder? no. is it nice to see a designer propel himself further away from the hammered leathers and geobaskets of life? absolutely.

[bill]

it's the headwear  with the boxy top, wide® shorts and long boots that reminded me of it.

 

the remark about the fabrics, madison ave businessman and italian leather daddies makes sense to me. with his pop up drkshdw stores and the miami one, offering clothes for a wider range is the right thing to do (if you want to sell more).

 

givenchy fw11? i can see it. it wouldn't surprise me if rick, knowing that his and riccardo's clothes are the coolest shits in the mind of a certain part of his fanbase, decided to do that just as a joke, because... you know... doing the same thing for 15 years gets tiring and if you can do whatever you want on the runway, then do whatever you want.

[madame twerq]

 

 

my initial reaction that was something around the lines of 'oh no not spring 11 again but in all brown' quickly changed for 'fuck yeah priest/egyptian headwear'

while scrolling through the pictures, i felt this collection was safe, but also that it was too soon for me to forge my opinion, so i gave it a bit of time.
the chosen colours are quite pleasing after his almost-all-black vicious one.
i see new designs and updates of previous ones, lots of accessories (bracelets and scarves) and lots of sleeves. does it feel like a fall/winter collection to me? yes. ice cold north american winters are not common in europe and you can easily deal with the coldest months by layering two or three pieces and a scarf.
this feels, to me, as the wardrobe of a nomad. many pockets and roomy clothes. it also screams protection to me, not only because of the vests (that would be the last thing on that list), but mostly because of the headwear, scarves and and space between clothes and the body who's inside of them.

this collection was described by many as a rap/hiphop/hood/gangster collection and i can see it, but Rick also knows his fanbase is composed by different people from different cultures and spheres. some aren't happy about the latest addition to his fanbase and this might be his way to laugh at the angry goths... i would not be surprised if the garments were styled one size bigger on the models...

it also follows his vicious proposal, but the headwear and scarves remind me of the nuns he sent down the catwalk a few years ago... and i'm deeply hoping for him to give me those nuns, again, next march.

 

 

Commercially safe, maybe, but only because he did a really good job disguising the play with the knees and the nape. There's a type of male eroticism here that is subversive enough to escape a lot of people, which is pretty much SOP for Rick's menswear.

 

The hip hop influences have been a part of Rick for so long, probably stretching back into the 90s when he was surrounded with it in LA. There's several interviews where he mentions this deference towards the exaggerated, extravagant sizing of the clothing worn by hip hop and skateboard culture.

 

http://www.rickowens.eu/en/interviews/neapolis-a-book-by-ill-studio-september-2012

 

 

I'm not the type of person to say that, oh, these clothes that I had nothing to do with the creation of, only I know how to wear them right; but, that person we're discussing who is acting like the hip hop influence is some new, commercial element to the Rick universe hasn't been paying enough attention.

 

The habits, they stretch at least as far back as a now-deleted promotional video from Lamy's menswear line dating to the late 1980s that reappeared in Rick's early shows as shirts on heads a la Laibach.

 

 

 

i'm not sure we've ever seen these fabrics rendered on his mens side. the gentleman-ly woolens, satin scarves, total wear leather, and stiff silks make me think about the italian dandies we see on streetstyle tumblrs. i wonder if rick was thinking about his version of the madison avenue "businessman," or his italian leather dandy.

 

 

Plinth's snow-cam-leopord-print is actually this woven, almost upholestery like fabric and really dense textural shangtungs rear their head almost every winter.

 

[bill]

Commercially safe, maybe, but only because he did a really good job disguising the play with the knees and the nape. There's a type of male eroticism here that is subversive enough to escape a lot of people, which is pretty much SOP for Rick's menswear.

this type of male eroticism is quite present. denying it wouldn't be right. mentionning 'rick is a wild homo' and talking about male eroticism is something schmoses and i decided to not do because we know. anything, i prefer his foil gold blistered lamb leather halter tops to his piss-on-me/shiny-bin-bags leather boxy garments, but that just me.

I'm not the type of person to say that, oh, these clothes that I had nothing to do with the creation of, only I know how to wear them right; but, that person we're discussing who is acting like the hip hop influence is some new, commercial element to the Rick universe hasn't been paying enough attention.

The hiphop/streetwear/LA/etc side of Rick has always been there. I was just saying, for fun, I was hoping it was a tongue-in-cheek move from his part, because some goths are not happy about the asap rockies and co. Because Rick knows...

[madame twerq]

GANG SIGNS AT 8:56

[ken shinoda]

The nun head thingy is shit.

Other than that, its pretty much the same stuff RO have been showing over the past few collection with the knee high boots etc.

[madame twerq]

[vannmel0n]

I absolutely loved this one, it was full soft but masculine fabrics, and it was sort of sexy in a way, something that has been missing from the brand in quite a long time.