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Julius leather coat, Helmut Lang 2003-2004, Rick Aircuts

michael_kard

By michael_kard
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michael_kard

michael_kard

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A beautiful Julius coat from A/W 2009-2010. Size 3, best for a 48 or big 46. Perfect condition. Realised in a unique black reversed leather (with veins showing, see close-up) that has been treated for a subtly waxed/aged appearance. The leather is heavy, substantial and has a pronounced patina. This coat was the most expensive leather piece of the season, and retailed for almost $4,000. You can find some runway photos in the album but the fit is pretty weird, and not at all representative of the retail version for sale here.

As far as the style is concerned, I would say this is a garment for those that want the unique slim fit of Julius outerwear while maintaining a more sober aesthetic. Still, this is by no means an ordinary coat: from very sharp cut to the extremely high quality of the construction, it is quite edgy and characteristically Julius. You know how most leather coats have that ugly horizontal seam on the waist, joining two leather pieces? This one doesn't, as a single piece of hide has been used. This is much more expensive, and in fact when Julius reissued this in the next season they used smaller pieces of leather for the front. So, the long vertical lines on both sides of the coat are actually badass elongated darts. This construction is fully echoed on the interior cupro lining, in a beautiful bronze/grey shade on the body and black on the sleeves.

Other details include: a stand-up collar with narrow topstitching on its back, handsome slim lapels with a slight curve, buttonless cuffs with minimalist slits, chunky horn buttons for the front, a long back vent and one of my favourite shoulder shapes: padded, yet subtle enough to pass off as an unstructured shoulder. The sleeve cap is roped, giving them a very subtle dent. As the shoulders are very narrow, the result is a tailored version of Julius' shrink-wrapped fit that we all know and love. The waist is cut a bit like BBS: snug but somehow straight, resulting in a form-fitting shape that exaggerates the torso without producing the effeminate curve of Rick's tailoring.

Overall, this is a beautiful coat from a solid Julius season. When I bought it I thought my search for the black coat was over, but I'm going more for a period costume thing these days. Still, writing this description made me a bit sad for selling; a designer item that is so well made is really quite rare even in this supposedly quality-oriented market. £750.

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More photos 12
all photos taken from raymondchiu.com.

DRKSDHW Aircut poplin jeans. New with tags, never worn. size 33 (TTS) - black colour, with a retail of over $650. This is the slimmest version available (18 cm hem) from Strutter. £265 -> £240 or best offer.



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More photos here

Helmut Lang SS04 Bondage Biker Vest. Size 48, best for a 48 or slim 50. New with tags, retailed for 99750 JPY ($1075). An incredible piece that looks amazing when worn over a longer coat. Awesome detailing on the lower back, chunky tonal black zips, heavy hardware. Generally awesome. £350 or best offer


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Edited by michael_kard
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