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oni - devil jeans


xcoldricex

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been curious about these jeans for months now myself, especially after reading a report from that Denim Gallery guy with killer Eternal 811s (http://denim-gallery.heavy.jp/aooni.html). He calls it possibly the "ultimate craft denim." By craft denim, I think he means non-replica type jeans.

Apparently, this denim-maker (I only know his as Mr. BS) used to work at a huge Japanese jeans company (not mentioning the company name because I don't want to give them a negative pub). He disagreed with the way they were operating and started his own gig.

Specifically speaking of Oni Denims, I heard from a guy at a New York store today that out of the fifteen looms they have, only one of them is able to create these models. Thus not only do they have amazing texture not easily available, they're limited in productions. "Oni" pretty much means "the devil" in Japanese. Hinoya says they named it Oni because the denim feels like it's possessed by the devil.

Haven't confirmed this, but by looking at the Hinoya section of Rakuten, I'd imagine the Oni Denim is very similar to Burgus Plus Awashouai (I think that's how it's read) Denim (http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119698/257997/), which costs quite a bit more. I believe Burgus Plus and BS United (Oni) are produced by same people.

As a side note, when I used to live in Japan, I heard of vaguely recorded stories about Russian fishermen whose ship wrecked close to Japan hundreds of years ago. The Russians barely made it alive to the shores of Japan only to be met by Japanese people who had never seen any non-Asian people before in their lives. To them, the tall, hairy (probably not a lot of shaving when you sail some distance), sun-burnt Russians probably looked like the devils. This might be the origin of the whole oni myth. Poor fishermen, I imagine they didn't receive the best hospitality.

Sorry for rambling. But got to check out the Oni Denims myself for the first time in person today and was really exciting. I wonder how they age over time. Anybody with pics?

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Yuji at Blue In Green told me that the guy behind Oni used to be a designer at Levis Japan, but started Oni b/c he was dissatisfied with his former employer's methods/business practices/(lack of)vision. super rigid, tough denim, as cold as rice stated.

Using chain stitch, your train of jeans is fading wind.

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Quote:

Yuji also said that out of the fifteen looms they have, only one of them is able to create the denim for onis. Therefore not only are these denim qualities hard to match, they also can't be mass produced.

--- Original message by Chicken on May 27, 2006 10:12 PM

he said that to me, too. my brain hurts from NJT.

Using chain stitch, your train of jeans is fading wind.

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The Oni -Devil Jeans are from BS United right? If you look at Hinoya's website, Burgus Plus & BS United are in the same web-page. I understand that Burgus is made by Hinoya? Is this to assume that BS United is made by them as well?

By the way, I just bought the synthetic dyed Oni and I must say they make one of the best denim (not sure yet about fit). It's somewhat similar to the denim used in the SC Hawaii/Edo Ai. The vertical striations are very distinct. It looks very very promising. I'm currently soaking them and intend to hand dry.

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How's the shrinkage on these - should I be looking to get my waist size (34) or should I be looking to get a pair marked 36 - and they'll shrink down to a 34?

-Jake

As far as I'm concerned, I prefer silent vice to ostentatious virtue.

-Albert Einstein

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