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Neutral Jeans


LFC4ever

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And now to the details shots :) You will see it is a "real" repro. Although it is a '66  cut is has none of the typical '60s details

 

 

leather patch

9153184340_eb0b8d62c1_z.jpg

 

The red tab

9150958919_67dbd99837_z.jpg

 

"Levi's" arcs. a mix of Fullcount and Flathead

9153183846_381462387b_z.jpg

 

Offset belt loop

9153183768_22328fabd8_z.jpg

 

Laurel leaf donut button

9150957997_54da41366a_z.jpg

 

And more donut buttons

9153183012_e29fb72696_z.jpg

 

9150957877_871c1f1fe0_z.jpg

 

Pink/red selvage

9150957385_09f6764aa2_z.jpg

 

Mood in the USA :D

9150957141_1c10d2501c_z.jpg

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I just quickly measured the waist and inseam. waist was a bit under 33" (so over 1,5" shrinkage just from the agitated soak) and inseam shrank 1". that surprised me a bit to see less shrinkage in the inseam than on the waist. they will surely shrink a good amount more next time they hit water

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And now to the details shots :) You will see it is a "real" repro. Although it is a '66  cut is has none of the typical '60s details

 

 

leather patch

9153184340_eb0b8d62c1_z.jpg

 

The red tab

9150958919_67dbd99837_z.jpg

 

"Levi's" arcs. a mix of Fullcount and Flathead

9153183846_381462387b_z.jpg

 

Offset belt loop

9153183768_22328fabd8_z.jpg

 

Laurel leaf donut button

9150957997_54da41366a_z.jpg

 

And more donut buttons

9153183012_e29fb72696_z.jpg

 

9150957877_871c1f1fe0_z.jpg

 

Pink/red selvage

9150957385_09f6764aa2_z.jpg

 

Mood in the USA :D

9150957141_1c10d2501c_z.jpg

 

 

Damn! These look seriously good! :)

 

How does the denim feel like? Are they stif and crunchy for "just" being 13 oz? Or smoother?

 

Great purchase at a great price. I´ve been on my way purchasing a pair of Neutral for a long time but never got around to it. These pics and your experience with these might just get me there :)

 

Superb!

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Well, I think the denim feels like 13oz should. Like my Fullcount the denim was rather soft and pliable from the get go so that you could wear it right away without discomfort.

When it was dry again after the soak it had that typical “raw denim stiffness†but not very brutal.

 

If you want a cut with a decent medium/high rise, some room in the thighs and a noticeable taper, this cut is golden.

 

Only thing that didn’t overwhelm me was the construction. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not bad. It’s solid but with some minor flaws here and there. Reminded me of my Red Cloud. So I would say an average Japanese construction ;)

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^ of course, but my clean-living, pious lifestyle affords me a moralistic, disapproving stance and only my generous, nay charitable, nature prevents me from hitting the red square on that utterly debaucherous post.

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Since the Neutral jeans have such a strong purple hue, I just said to myself there has to be a redcast to the denim. (blue + reed = purple, ya know). That made me wondering what causes the redcast and what is the effect of it (other than give me purple pants right now). Quick google search lead me to Nudie Jean. Here is what they wrote about it:

 

 

 

What is redcast and greencast?

It’s a dying process and depending on the method of dying will result in different shades or casts: yellow, black, brown, red or green cast. You usually don´t see what cast it is on prewashed denim as the effect gets more apparent when the denim have been worn and washed. The picture above is from our concept store in Sydney and shows how the dry, unworn redcast fabric, that is almost a bit purple in the tint turns out to this clear and bright blue color and how the greencast fabric, dyed with green sulfur gives a deeper green/blue-ish fade. The more the fabric has been dipped in the indigo, the more apparent deep in the fade, after wearing and washing.

These two casts is one of the most common casts. In the picture below shows how they look from the start.

 

 

http://www.nudiejeans.com/blog/44139829507/

 

 

and an old thread on Sufu about both

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/16140-examples-of-greencastredcast-denim/

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The caste system was invented by Indian denim manufacturers (under political pressure) to help preserve and make clear the stratification of society in the sartorially democratic 'blue jeans' world. With each colour/shade representing a particular social hierarchy and strict criteria relating to the sale of cast to caste, this antiquated form of discrimination has been allowed to continue.

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^^ besides nudie I saw an old (standard) Levi's retailer's catalogue featuring the different cast types. You could really tell the differences between green and recast, for example. Still, I can't recall any japanese brand pointing the casts out (besides coloured wefts on PBJ, Samurai Element etc.).

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From my experience at 3x1, I learned that plant-derived indigo is naturally a red caste blue and synthetic indigo is meant to reproduce that shade of blue. Classic Levi's from Cone were all red caste denim. I visited the White Oak Mill two years ago and Bud, featured in Farhad's video, explained that green caste was developed when a denim brand brought dead stock Cone fabric in and asked for it to be replicated. The natural oxidization of the fabric yellowed the cotton. Blue + yellow = green. Green caste began there to replicate dead stock colors that brands wanted to run in their new lines.

 

That's the story I was told at Cone. As far as other castes, as more fabrics were brought in to be replicated, different sulfur dyes were used to achieve the look of the desired fabric. Originally, they were doing a "sulfur bottom," dying with the sulfur dye first and then running it through indigo baths. That contaminated the indigo baths with the sulfur dye and made quality control very challenging.

 

Thus, they adopted the "sulfur top," a sulfur dye added after the indigo baths. This way they could add the color that changed the caste without affecting the indigo achieved before the added sulfur dye.

 

As far as weft yarn dying, I read on BiG's site that the company was trying to achieve the color of wild cotton as cotton bred for textiles was much lighter in color.

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