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First wash after roughly 2 months. I admit I have neglected them after getting the Denime 101

Ok, so here they are, washed a time or 2, the one on the right has been worn more by me. Labeled CR07, paper tag. The fit is just perfect, and it’s my favorite type 2 I have. I believe it’s the xx2 denim, but correct me if I’m wrong.

At Last 147 and 677J / Big Yank by Anatomica / Duke Mantee / Viberg

On the topic of scams, here’s a story in case it’s useful to anyone. This happened in 2019 in the US and I meant to post about it, but when I finally found time the scammer was already banned from grailed. I ordered a J43A from this dude and everything seemed above board, until USPS delivered the package… and it didn’t arrive. I’ll spare the details, but I ultimately figured out he’d shipped it to a different apartment building in the same zip code, and then picked it up from that apartment himself (or maybe he had a helper idk). First I went to Grailed. These guys are beyond useless. They basically just link you to the PayPal page where you can open a dispute, and then act as cheerleaders the rest of the time. There is no way in hell they would have made me whole if PayPal fell through. PayPal refused to refund me initially because the zip code was right, and a tracking number only shows the zip code, so as far as they knew it was delivered just fine. They said if I got proof from USPS they’d refund me. They told me I could also dispute the charge with my credit card company. When I called USPS, they were able to verify that the shipping address was the wrong place, the one I suspected, but they can only confirm it when prompted. They can never say “this is where it was sent,” only “yes” and “no” when you make guesses, lol. I tried but I couldn’t get PayPal to phone them. Finally after a lot of persuasion and headache, I managed to get a physical printout of the shipping label at the origin from USPS. (To be clear, they are not supposed to give you this.) I gave it to PayPal and they initially rejected it, but then I was like “what the fuck this is exactly the proof you asked for” and they were like oh okay fine. Lessons: I deeply suspect Grailed purchase protection is never helpful. If you read their documentation you can see they never promise to reimburse you, only “work with you and the seller to make it right.” PayPal seems to not be interested in resolving fraud claims. By about 2/3 of the way through this process it was clear that they wanted me to open a credit card dispute, because I guess credit card companies have properly staffed fraud departments. If you complain enough to USPS they will actually confirm shipping destinations for you.

Photos of 1942 501XX from Hellers Cafe. Just a random comparison post as l don't have these photos to hand and it takes me ages to fire up the old laptop, and l can't be arsed to keep going back through these pages to find the images. 1937 1st pocket flasher, used between 1937 and March 1942 vs 1942 pocket flasher, used between April and December 1942.

Thanks to @Bratwurst, legit seller and buyer. Got everything as advertised.

Denime N-1 size 38, very lightly worn

👍 Beat me to it

Received a full refund after several attempts exactly from Grailed after my package was lost or delivered to a different address. I used a mail forwarding company address, the one and only proof was an email from them, stating that they hadn't received my package. Meanwhile Paypal refused to refund.

@Dr_Heech yea. I never get rivets to pop through but these are getting close!!

In thinking about this, I also consider the brands’ sewing machine operators.. I know that many brands here focus on extremely accurate reproductions, but perhaps this late trend to amplify stitching ‘errors’ is an emergence of the latent artistry of the sewers themselves. I know for myself as an artist, if you put me down in front of a flower and ask me to draw it, I’ll tend to over-emphasize the curviness of the leaves and the shading of the petals over all else. That’s my own deviance from realism that I’ve found emerged subconsciously from my own artistic practice over the years, and it’ll surely be different from that of the next artist who comes in to draw the same scene. I think you can make a strong case that the sewing work done for these brands is more like factory work than like art, but I do wonder if in designing these repros whether the people assigned to come up with the sewing pattern don’t relish the chance for a little extra wonkiness, their creative touch in an industry that for the most part seemed quite a bit more rigid in its techniques. Totally not basing this off anything, just a speculation!

It was FW choice. Sushi doesn’t agree with the ‘wonky’ stitching for much the same reason I do. It did exist, it always had, albeit new factories and therefore new operatives (as Doc rightly says) caused some issues which subsequently settled as those operatives gained experience. Control standards were certainly lower because Levi’s were coining it in with increased output but as with every process a level of equilibrium is established. I just think brands are looking for extreme examples to make their mark. In any event FW didn’t see any reason to ask a high quality factory to produce low quality work so there was only a nod to the ‘wonkiness’ … that from the factory owner.

^^^^Also don't forget only one factory going into WW2 (1942) and at least 3 factories coming out so alot of new and untrained machine operators and a change in the new, more simplified design of the 501xx for skilled/trained levis employees to have to rush through for service industries.

I’m not sure I agree with this. The cinch/suspender buttons/number of pockets, etc were functional/design features of the jeans in certain eras and would have been standard across all pairs produced by a company (such as Levi’s). Obviously there may have been slight variations where one factory may have made still added a crotch rivet or cinch after others had stopped, etc. Wonky stitching wasn’t a functional/design feature, it was an accidental quirk simply due to untrained/inexperienced machinists and possibly poor QC. I’m sure there were thousands of WW2 pairs made with perfectly good, straight stitching and conversely quite likely a number of pairs from other eras with bad stitching, loose threads, etc (although these may have been more likely to have been picked up by QC). The wonkiness is simply a feature of some pairs that repro manufacturers have chosen to focus on, which, even if commonplace was not standard or deliberate at the time.

Must say the denim looks a very nice rich indigo colour... and nice drop shoulder on the jacket... and of course there will be all the fun with sizing we can expect from TCB... generating interest for the observers and cortisol for the participants!

I wouldn't want this thread to unravel... but it's like going into a 30s repro thread (if one existed) and saying what's the point of adding a cinch and suspender buttons to the jeans, or a 50s thread and asking for a 25cm rise instead. Or looking at the latest TCB 1890s repro and questioning why there's only one pocket... If the manufacturers are doing a repro, then if what they're copying has wonky-ness then I'd expect them to replicate that. It's just a feature of the time. When the bloke above snips off the extra thread and gets some wear into the jacket, it'll come up looking grand imo. I'm a sucker for a variety of denim jackets... so happy to embrace the repro features... I am always taken by how the industry does reinvent and evolve itself with new versions or repeated versions of repeated versions... the new 1942s, the 1890s, the... will it ever end... hopefully not... long live Sufu!

The offset drives my ocd nuts. I can get into very minor offset but something so intentional comes off as being poorly sewn in my opinion. Haha where is the quality control

Honestly, I’m just seeing these exaggerated ‘machinist errors’ as a bit of a joke now. Every new effort seems to want to outdo the last one. I know I have a slightly different view to how this ‘poor quality’ might have manifested itself originally but these modern iterations just don’t convey the spirit of wartime efforts - more like they are ‘ripping the arse out of it’* *reproduced from The Dictionary of Modern Scottish Language (current edition)

M41200 action shot feat. Tilley, Great Lakes, Frank’s, dog

Bump + price updates. Dm if interested, stuff needs to go, help a brother out

Did Ooe ever did a denim jacket? Probably yes?! I see Ryo wearing one in their latest IG posts and wondered if its their own or a vintage one (or maybe he just did it for himself)

Works like a charm! Before After Tried on my old 66 pair.

sun studies of 125 achilles heel overdye… fluffy fuzzy multiblue cosmos… hats off to professor (or is it mad scientist?) @rodeo bill - this fabric is top tier

To make the shipping worthwhile, I also got this sweater. Extra long cuffs. And some wear and tear on my blanket lined Type2