Looking 2 buy Selvage or high quality raw denim in U.S. for small up start company.

[clay]

1)Can anyone advise how I may buy great Japanese, Italian denm here in staes. I work for start up company is bascally myself and the owner. I do not know any reps for these goods. Also will they sell a few sample yards to nobodies like myself and the owner that only about 10 yards per quality.

2) Alo I need to find wash or finishing houses for the styles we will produce in denim, that are knowlegable

of all the techniques out there on denim, here in U.S. also.

Please help with any info if you have at [email protected]

[ringring]

Most companies will sell sample yardages of 10 yards. The trouble is, with many of the best denim mills at full capacity or near full capacity, small companies are always last in line for service and delivery. If you can build up a good, friendly relationship with the rep it can help a lot, as can paying cash upfront ( I guess you know that already). If you ask about their stock inventory, they may have rolls of older stock they can sell you cheap. It may not be the latest development in denim, but still good quality.

Great denim mills include, Kurabo Japan, Kurabo China, Legler, Tavex, Berto, Montebello, Hellenic, Cappio. You should be able to find their US reps via a websearch or by looking in a directory, like the one produced by Premier Vision.

Conversely, with the movement of large volume production to chinese, bangladeshi and turkish laundries, you may find that US or European laundries are open to taking on smaller production quantities (although that still may mean ordering at least 1000 peices per style or wash).Good luck with your search.

[clay]

RingRing,

Thank you for information. I will follow up for sure!

Another question:DO you specifically know any of the wash houses and how to contact them? You seem to be a denim expert. I appreciate your time.

Also, how could I obtain the specific recipe's for all these new washes? Again , any info will be greatly appreciated. I ask this for a different reason. I am a denim designer, however, my last job could not afford all these new washes and techniques, so when i apply for new jobs no one hires me due to my lack of washing knowledge. I know all the bleaching, enzyming, tinting stuff, but all that stuff is basic. I need tosomehow gain the current knowledge. If you can help here also it will be greatly appreciated.

[ringring]

Clay

You are welcome, glad to help a fellow denim enthusiast. What is the name of your denim line? I will be looking out for it:)

Re: Wash Houses - Regrettably, I am unfamiliar with US laundries.

Recipes - Laundries are famously guarded about their recipes. Remember, it's not the machinery as such that makes a laundry but the know-how of those who run it. Hence recipes are not handed out willingly. Knowledge and people are jealously horded.

Re: New Washing Techniques - Some of the techniques are easy to fathom eg, handbrushing, whiskers, worn edges and 3D resin whiskers. Others are really difficult to figure out without actually observing the wash in action eg. Potassium Pomanganate brushing and neutralising. Also knowledge of how the whitening agents change the tone of the fabrics is useful. (Some agents make the indigo shade towards grey).

It's also difficult to source the chemicals used unless you have some inside knowledge. However as a designer you may not need detailed knowledge of these things.

I don't know if you hang out with other denim people in the trade, but usually this is the best way to garner knowledge outside of the actual workplace.

Good luck in your research.

[clay]

RingRing,

Hey Thanks man! Unfortunatly the line is still in the planning stage and the name will play off my name somehow "Clay". Maybe "CLA" or something, who knows?

Yeah, I know what you mean about the heavily garded secret thing. Even my own so called friends seem

reluctant to share their knowledge. I will find a way though. I know there is a famous denim chemical company in England, I almost went there a couple of years ago with my last job. I forget their name though.

I have some contacts in LA also. I think that may be my answer right there.

Now I am doing doing custom suits for personal clients, very high end, Savile Row type stuff, along with leather and/or suede coats, trousers, jackets ect. I really enjoy that also. So my line will not be as street as some of the other guys out there, but sort of forward but classic pieces that reflects the wearers sense of the past and how he shapes his future( But that can change any minute, I have much to do).

I am new to the forum and I really like it! I look forward to reading more and meeting others! I usually hang out in theFashionSpot.com forum. Do you visit that site? Check it out if not, I think you might like it.

Thanks Again!!!

[ringring]

You're welcome. "Clay" is a cool name for a denim brand IMO. I don't know how you are planning the production of your denims, but if you outsource your production, it's often better to ask the supplier to source the denim for you.

Was the chemical company in England called Ecolab? They deal with some washing products. I think they are part of the chemical giant Henkel. Henkel is a major supplier of industrial washing chemicals. You should be able to get a lot of washing info from their website.

Savile Row type sounds good. So are you tailor? It's an awesome skill.

I don't visit TheFashionSpot, but thanks for the tip off. I'm pretty new to this forum too. Welcome aboard anyway.

[clay]

RiNg Ring,

Sorry about the late reply. No, the company in England was called something else, still cant remember though.

I'm nt a tailor, though I know it well after taking a class last spring at FIT. My background is in design. 5 years in womens blouses and shirts, 6 years in denim and sportswear for mass market( Federated, May, Jcpenny, Walmart ect). But I have a love of higher quality and design. S im trying to plan out doing something that fit my vision, taste, background and make some money at the same time.

So pretty much starting at the beginning again. Trying to create a harmony of lifestyle and work. I guess just trying to free my myself from the rat race to start my own. But they keep pulling me back in. Need the money so I will work for anybody, but use the money to start my own projects. I am ineterested in denim. tailoring and leather. But I recently took a job at a fabric store in NY and now Im thinking of RTW also. Art was my entry into fashion, not the typical guy that started playing in his mothers closet. Which is good and bad at times. Sometime people want you to be this really flamboyant designer or they're scared you will punch them in the mouth after they yell at you for some stupid reason. To tell the truth I wanted to play in the NBA

all my life until I had a injury in JR High School which made me focus on other things.

Anyway, My pleasure meeting you and whenever I have time I wil be backto see how things are around here. Really enjoy your post!!!!

BTW I also have been thnking about using the name Anomoly. I used it a few years ago for leather line that almost made it into Barneys before crashing and burning

[ringring]

Good luck with your projects Clay. Anomoly is a cool name.