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Raf Simons S/S 2010


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Guest Phrost

i don't trust raf's vision anymore. nigga trying to reinvent himself thinking he's prada just for the hell of it. he has jil sander to let out his conservative tailored artistic frustration. why the fuck isn't he going all out for his namesake brand

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Free-associate on this: The audience for Raf Simons' show was sitting in a beautiful garden, looking at a snake—or at least a snake printed on a pair of jeans. And, come to think of it, the belts woven around the bodies of the besuited Adams who had walked earlier were also serpentine, as was the logo on the backside of the jeans some of them wore, with the snake coiling in an S shape around an R. Raf Simons? A logo? Surely that's original sin in Raf-world. Yes, but now he wants his share of God's little acre. "Our first decade is done," he said at show's end. "We need a new man." So his presentation was a manifesto for Raf Simons: The Second Decade. It was impressively mature—and significantly commercial.

Simons insisted he was tired of the teenage-guru trip he's been lumbered with. He was after the kind of customer who'll wear his immaculately tailored suits in an impressive range of options, and hopefully top them with the stunning leather coats on display. "We're targeting a high-fashion man," Simons said with winning "directness. But he also seemed to feel that such an individual would prefer the luxe sobriety of those suits and coats to be embellished by proximity to high-fashion hybrids like a knit top with a single-vented cloth back, or a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders, or a jacket whose sleeves were slashed open like something from the Renaissance. Among other pieces of pensively opulent music, Michel Gaubert tracked the show to György Ligeti's "Musica Ricercata," the sound of obsession in Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut. "High fashion is an addiction," said Simons. He just gave us our fix. And the snake made him do it.

— Tim Blanks

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the original sin motif is more than a little overdone but it does beg some interesting questions about the degree that raf seems to understand how his recent work is recieved / considered

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