Pitti Immagine: Thom Browne in Florence F/W 09.10

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HQ:

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shit should have put this in the first post but I'm afraid to edit now cause I dont want the post to disappear... anyway:

From iht:

Pitti Immagine: Thom Browne in Florence

By Suzy Menkes

Thursday, January 15, 2009

FLORENCE: Everything was so pin-sharp - the taut tailored suits, the metallic clatter of typewriters and the modernist Mussolini architecture - that Thom Browne's Florentine excursion was a pure and powerful distillation of his message.

Just two outfits - suits and knits - appeared at the American designer's first European show during the Pitti Uomo menswear fair in Florence. But the essence of Browne's sartorial style does not begin to describe the atmospheric sense of pent-up masculinity and menace.

A line-up of models, with identical slicked hair and exactly the same camel coats and brief cases, walked into the "office" space created at the Istituto di Scienze Militari Aeronatiche. The brick edifice was built in 1938 and has kept everything from its streamlined squares of the parquet floor to aeroplane-shaped door handles intact.

A "boss" figure pinged a bell as the models took off their short coats and snug suit jackets, both with striped linings, to sit at 1950s desks, where they tapped away. Although nothing broke through the rigid façade, you knew that there was a Clark Kent Superman under the prim gray cardigans, trimmed with buttons at the side and short pants (with more buttons at the back to strike a faint fetishistic note). The boss's minions, wearing suits with shorts, the better to reveal the red/white/blue tabs at the shoe heels, then strode the room to collect wads of typed sheets.

"Just very simple," Browne said about a show that could best be described as "simply" perfect. Having used his irony in a heavy-handed way in his recent New York shows, offering weird variations on formal dress, the designer reduced his fantasies, as if making a good sauce: The same ingredients of taut, even tortured, manhood were there but presented in a subtle way.

A more surreal effect was the face-off between the air force cadets and officers in their smart service uniforms with the provocative fashion version. It made for a memorable show and an example of how the Pitti Immagine focus can bring out the best in a designer.

[l3ootlegs]

thx <3. i know u r just doing this for "someone"...lol

[ProfMonnitoff]

this is really good

love the concept of the show, and the styling is impeccable

even though the cardigan is an obvious rehash for the xth time

btw posts dont disappear anymore

[Tyro1]

is there a video of this anywhere? I think this would have been good to see in motion

[DJ_Flame]

Not so satisfied with this time's Pitti Uomo. Looks like the recession hit hard and alot of the displays were scaled down.

Liked the 30's cubicle drone concept anyways.

[geekbonchic]

Heard the Church's booth was still pretty nice.

[juliaN.]

i fucking loved this shit

as a "runway" presentation or whatever, it isn't much, but i think at this point the TB customer knows what he wants and is getting when he shops for the clothes.

the concept, art direction of this is absolutely brilliant. He's taken something as mundane as a camel coat/grey suit worker's uniform and made something darkly perverse and totalitarian, claustrophobic in the whole presentation.

haters can hate, TB is a fucking rock star. one of the more clever presentations for clothes since Stefano's panoramic screen video for YSL men's

[juliaN.]

a few months ago I went to see a gallery exhibit featuring a collaborative project between David Lynch and Christian Louboutin. The subject was fetish, but the reference was too easy - what red blooded man doesn't like the sights of a woman wearing compromising shoes...

definitely something much more stark and brutal about this TB show. It's the exact opposite of Miyashita - who references dark and troubled icons of America in a loving, romantic and idealistic light. Great timing with the TB show, given the resurgence of his preferred period in the spotlight with shit like Mad Men and Revolutionary Road...making the culmination of the industrial revolution seem a cold, hollow and menacing dead end - the fascism of the American Dream.

[Sayword]

^

What he said

>_>

[LupinTheFourth]

This is propably his wet dream come true.

I like it.

[l3ootlegs]

totally straight and clean cut. once u r on those garments. u can never get out of it