Shuttle Loomed Denim

[johninger]

I have seen and heard of people buying jeans based on the quality of the denim. Raw shuttle loomed is all i really buy now a days as well (bit pretentious i know).

But the main thing most people forget is the construction and fit of the jean is as important as the quality of the fabric.

For instance, evisu make out they are such a premium jean but most pairs these days have all overlocked inner seams, no felling except yoke. I mean same with Nudie etc. If I'm gonna spend $200 + on a pair of raw jeans to break in myself they better want to last ie old levis.

When in Australia last I bought a pair of Imperial Brand Clothing raw jeans and have bought them via email ever since. They are possibly the most well crafted pair of jeans on earth. Not only are they well made but they only use the best shuttle loomed denim from Japan and US. Add on their hand cut and embossed leather tags and beautiful pocket stitching I wish more people knew about them.

Sorry if I sound like their sales guy but I have become passionate about them. Also, could someone please recommend a place to buy very old vintage levis online (ie pre-WWII).

ps I hope indigo does not cause cancer.

www.imperial.st

[darknworn]

what about those imperial jeans? how to buy and how much? how do they fit after washing? i'd be interested in more info. it's always good to know about other quality denim makers.

"God is Dead" - Nietzsche

"Nietzsche is Dead" - God

[Geowu]

post pics of your worn ones.

[Guest]

I think they make two cuts, well i've only seen two. they call them duke (classic fitted) and King (classic loose). Someone else will have to elaborate on King fits cause i tend to go for Duke.

They shrink to fit perfectly, when i bought them in Aus they wouldn't let me walk out of the shop with a pair that i could easily get into. Basically, bought as tight as I could and they relaxed heaps. I'm 5'10" and they are made to give plenty of roll up even after the wash, my friend cut his before wash which I told him not to do and now his roll up is minimal.

When I got back to Japan I wore them for about 9 months before washing. then only once since, look awesome, will try and post picture but not very good at bbs.

I got mine for $AUD330, but over there nudie selvage is $360 and evisu even more. So are fairly priced for an Australian made product (australia has same problem as Japan and Italy in the way they have to pay everyone a lot to work, but is better product although China has some good manufacturers these days).

I bought another pair for a friend by emailing them on their site www.imperial.st , I was told by someone who buys for Selfridges that he saw at a recent trade fair for spring/summer 06, Imperial's owner talking to some NY boutiques and perhaps BEAMS but they are pretty tight like that they don't want overexposure.

Their tshirts are incredible too, ive got a brown Imperialstar print. They use all egyptian combed cotton that they hand dye and print themselves in Australia.

Anyway i'm going on a bit here. Would love to hear what your favourite jeans are...

[sbbbjm]

i like those except for the stitching on the pockets (it looks like the stitching they put on the DKNY jeans that are sold in dillard's). i think i like them because from the front they look just like nudies. especially the belt loops

Edited by sbbbjm on Sep 18, 2005 at 07:53 PM

[johninger]

I think they make two cuts, well i've only seen two. they call them duke (classic fitted) and King (classic loose). Someone else will have to elaborate on King fits cause i tend to go for Duke.

They shrink to fit perfectly, when i bought them in Aus they wouldn't let me walk out of the shop with a pair that i could easily get into. Basically, bought as tight as I could and they relaxed heaps. I'm 5'10" and they are made to give plenty of roll up even after the wash, my friend cut his before wash which I told him not to do and now his roll up is minimal.

When I got back to Japan I wore them for about 9 months before washing. then only once since, look awesome, will try and post picture but not very good at bbs.

I got mine for $AUD330 but over there evisu/rogan jeans are up around $aud400/500 even more. So are fairly priced for an Australian made product (australia has same problem as Japan and Italy in the way they have to pay everyone a lot to work, but is better product although China has some good manufacturers these days).

I bought another pair for a friend by emailing them on their site www.imperial.st , I was told by someone who buys for Selfridges that he saw at a recent trade fair for spring/summer 06, Imperial's owner talking to some NY boutiques and perhaps BEAMS but they are pretty tight like that they don't want overexposure.

Imperial Brand Clothing tshirts are incredible too, ive got a brown Imperialstar print. They use all egyptian combed cotton that they hand dye and print themselves.

Anyway i'm going on a bit here. Would love to hear what your favourite jeans are...

[flex1]

Johninger.....I actually believe you work for them, seems rather convenient that they just launched their website yesterday and now you are one here preaching over them.....No harm I guess, They do look pretty dope, not too sure about the back pocket design though.

[johninger]

Good call, i wish i worked for them. I believe this is actually the third reincarnation of their site and the beta version has been available to all of us on their mailing list for about three weeks now.

A appreciate your cynicism though.

I hope indigo does not cause cancer.

[minya]

The whole 5" cuff thing looks so stupid.

[Geowu]

they seem decent... too bad the site doesn't show too much info..

[johninger]

I agree. Althoug plenty of people here in Japan pull off bigger roll ups than those on the site. I guess some people just can't be arsed getting their jeans taken up...

[Geowu]

johninger, since you're in Japan, how do you think those compare to other Japanese brands (such as Sugarcane, Denime, etc)

[rnrswitch]

Those jeans look nice. I don't really like the way the 5-pocket is riding on the side of the hip rather than in front, though.

[YoungPunch]

Yeah, the coin pocket looks like it is located way at the side of the hip in some of those pics. Looks odd.

The raw jeans kind of look like copies of nudie RR. Not much distinction to these jeans or brand.

But overall the quality seems good...

[johninger]

Re-Sugarcane, original evisu etc, Imperial Brand Clothing do not have as big an emphasis on repro. I think they combine that old denim aesthetic, ie. shuttle loomed denim, break in yourself, with a more modern practical approach. ie this pair i have a much better fitted than any of those repro cuts.

Also, in regards to their interior finishing, there is not one piece of overlocking exposed in the whole jean. Where sugarcane, denime etc all have overlocking throughout. As part of this the selvage runs from waistband to leg opening. All felling including yoke, inner legseam, fly etc.

In summary I prefer Imperial Brand Clothing, but if you want the copper rivet and red tag 100% cotton thread (ie total repro) then they aren't for you. However, when you think about it even the repros today are not perfect in terms of thread use, felling etc. so who knows.

Also, in regards to site having no info, the last flash file we got sent in mailing list had fully functional Imperial is... page not sure why this is still blank on site. Perhaps they are lazy...

[adsurgo]

this dude is definitely somehow in association with the company

[johninger]

Geowu, where are you? do you get Samurai or 45rpm where you are.

I actually think these are my favourite of the current crop of shuttle loomed pairs...

[powerglov]

The raw jeans do look almost identical to Nudie RRs.. with a different back pocket stitch design.. equally obtrusive.

[johninger]

Not sure where the similarities arise from. Belt loops? Maybe

I think they are more remniscent of Edwin in regards to their denim but with standard levi's coloured thread and unique back pocket stitching.

I actually like the back pocket stitching, does anyone else, or is it totally negative response?

[clintyclint]

Quote:

this dude is definitely somehow in association with the company

--- Original message by adsurgo on Sep 18, 2005 08:44 PM

I agree 100%

[johninger]

Quote:

Quote:

this dude is definitely somehow in association with the company

--- Original message by adsurgo on Sep 18, 2005 08:44 PM

I agree 100%

--- Original message by clintyclint on Sep 18, 2005 09:26 PM

I agree 100%

[johninger]

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

this dude is definitely somehow in association with the company

--- Original message by adsurgo on Sep 18, 2005 08:44 PM

I agree 100%

--- Original message by clintyclint on Sep 18, 2005 09:26 PM

I agree 100%

--- Original message by johninger on Sep 18, 2005 09:32 PM

I agree 95%

[adsurgo]

whats an edit button?

[Geowu]

come to think of it, lock stitching looks bad, I think more companies should do all felled seams. (despite the similarity in style with nudie regular ralf I like it, the pocket stitching is nice.)

[johninger]

Geowu, you may have missed my post to you. I was asking if you had seen 45rpm and samurai where you are from. They are also both very nice jeans...

I am interested to know if they sell anywhere else apart from here.

[Geowu]

No, haven't seen them. I'm not on the denim business or anything, although many people here are.

The Samurai I think they are sold also in HK (China). As for the 45rpm they sell them also in NY and Paris.

[adsurgo]

ive had experience with 45rpm.. and a few people on here have samurais.

[johninger]

Whats the general feeling about these products?? I mean they are not so popular here because Japanese prefer American and Australian products... Not so much Japanese products.

Even if the quality is not very good as long as it is American, Australian, sometimes even Canadian/British, the young japanese will buy.

Unusual phenomenon, maybe not, I suppose exotic is good.

[andewhall]

They seem to be styled exactly the same as Nudies, stitching detail, belt loops etc. Having the selvage cut right to the top of the waistband? This would mean the outside leg is straight all the way up which doesn't give you alot of Jeans to hang on your hips? I always thought it was extreme having a straight outer leg as it is (selvage). Also the front looks the same width as the back, or even wider creating that "around the corner" look on the front pockets. Most well cut Jeans have the back cut wider so the outside seams fall more middle/front of the leg. Getting a bit critical arn't I.....nice Jeans all the same

[Geowu]

Quote: that "around the corner" look on the front

not too sure about that. Nudie seems to have that "around the corner" look too.