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denim review.


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an offshoot of the clothing review thread. convenient for noobs.

warehouse x sufu x big jeans- very stiff when they came in. notoriously oversized. i usually wear a 30, and the 28 was a bit big. a mix between a repro and modern cut. relatively slim and straight. not as slubby as my pbjs, but they are slubby. some say that it has a sort of purple hue.

pbj xx-005- my favorite jeans so far. slim and lowcut. very very slubby. fading came out alright after 8 months. nothing as dramatic as eternals. crotch blew at 6 months, but thats because the thread is 100% cotton. flathead uses a poly blend for their threads. indigo is very rich.

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Eternal 811 - Great all around jeans, I wouldn't exactly call them slim (not by my standards now), but they aren't classic fit either.. somewhere inbetween slim and fitted. Really deep color, the rise of the pants may bother some though.

Samurai S5000 - Good cut if you have large thighs, otherwise the hip flare ruins it for me. The denim is very very rugged. Size down.

PBJ-005xx - IMO, this isn't a very flattering cut. The upper block fits REALLY tight, but there's a slight flare at the hem due to the straight cut, looks whack (on me). Denim is super slubby and has a great color. This shit runs tight, basically the only jean I get away with wearing my true waist, usually have to size down 1/2 on every other jean.

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Nudie RRDS - Nice beginner jeans to start off with. Very youthful, almost skater-like but with a sense of decency. Slightly roomy in the upper wasit and slight bootcut which is great for those who arent into the skinny scene. Though not quite as slubby, or vintage-eqsue, it does present some very smooth denim. The gunmetal grey beginnings also has a certain appeal to it.. Tends to blow in the crotch (as with all Nudies) but worn loosely, should be fine. Not the greatest of denim, but still a great piece to start with.

DenimJunkie DJ501XX - Another great pair. Slightly similar to the RRDS but with that extra bit of quality. Some nice 14oz Zimbabwe's and nice little details such as star shaped rivets and kangaroo skin on some nice dead cow. Much tighter fitting than the RRDS with a less subtle bootcut, definitely a unique cut and would appeal to most denimist.

One complaint is the slightly small coin pocket and getting things in and out of the front pockets are a bit of a workout but ought to stretch out soon enough.

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Eternal 868 / 872 - Regular fit, super streaky eternal jean. Awesome fabric, 18oz, doesnt have the fit inconsistencies that the 811 is known to have. Woven with two warps of different sizes.

Sugarcane 40500 Edo AI - Wonderfully unique jean. Very interesting hue, lots of striation. Dyed with speciality natural indigo dye unique to the edo ai region. Hand felled inseams. Lined back pockets, dragon print front pocket bags. 50% sugarcane fibers 50% cotton. Repro fit.

Kapital Cisco No4 denim - (in post will edit on arrival)

Julian Red Hoboken Nikki Sixx - Very cool jean, not selvedge, very tapered leg, indigo warp/ pink weft, white leather label.

I own the s5000bk - great cut, I sized down 2, maybe 3 now actually! Its snug up top with a cool straight leg, very flattering. However I think the samurai 5000 cut looks bad stacked, and seeing as they come with 36 inseam in future I would allways get big to hem em.

PBJ-005. I like this cut, its very snug on the bum and thighs, but due to a narrow but actually straight leg gets looser through the shin and hem. I think this is a good cut for men with wide hips, it kinda straightens out the sillouette.

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apc new standard- alot of us have worn this as our beginner jean. great price for the denim (12 oz but sturdy) and fit. slim with slight taper. no branding except for the apc pin that it comes with. small pockets. make sure to size down 2 from normal size. fades beautifully.

flathead f380- straight slim piece. about 14.5 oz. if you want a slightly fuller f310/3001 this will be a good one. i really like the fit. not really slubby like some other brands, but the denim is awesome.

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prps new fit selvage: lightweight denim, 12oz, purple selvage, and a nice slim fit. the zimbabwean cotton prps uses gets really soft over time, and develops a lot of different shades of blue.

skull jeans 5109xx: a 1966 repro, so a higher rise but a relatively slim fit. the denim feels great, it's the 6x6 type, 14,5oz.

nudie regular ralf dry greycast: the famous RR, a bootcut model, in the greycast denim, which is like 13,5oz, tends to fade really fast. nice starter jean.

uniqlo s-000: the skinny straight one is a nice slim fit, and has a low rise. its really cheap for what you'll get, only 4000yen. red selvage.

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Sugarcane SC40400 Hawaii - Repro cut (believe its the classic '47 shape). Very slubby, dyed with natural indigo harvested from Hawaii. The colour has to be seen to be believed from deep indigo blues to sea greens. Will bleed, bleed, bleed for a while but eventually settle down. The sugar cane fibres are scratchy to wear but hang in there and this denim gets super soft. Lined back pockets, felled in-seams, green selvedge, yummy!

Ironheart IH-634S - Tough as they come 21oz denim. Standard straight cut, lower rise than a repro. Long grain Zimbabwe cotton is suprisingly soft making these easy to wear from the get go. Denim isn't slubby but the thick warp and weft give these an almost hickory stripe look (imo). Thick leather patch, option of sterling silver rivets.

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APC New Cure - As already stated APC are great beginner jeans. They fade quickly and the creases are every defined, I guess due to the lightweight nature of the denim. These are sanforized so don't shrink at all but they do stretch out a huge amount, so make sure you size down.

LVC 1947 501 - Another good beginners jean in a repro cut. These, in constrast the APCs, shrink quite a bit. I found my 32x34 came down to 30x31 after a hot wash. Denim is nothing special but will fade well. The cut is slimmer than most of the other LVC models with the exception of the 66 501 and the 67 505.

SExIH01 - These use the same denim as the other Iron Heart indigo models; really lovely denim. Again, these don't shrink very much but will stretch. I would suggest getting in the smallest size you can possibly squeeze into and let them stretch out. If you can't try them on, bear in mind that they run smaller than the tagged size. My size 30s measured exactly 29" in the waist new. The cut is excellent and the construction is top notch.

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SAMURAI JIN`S Beautiful left hand twill, 17oz denim..by far the nicest lee repro cut out there ..beats the sugar cane 45...size down 1 , fades will be incredible

FLATHEAD 3001 14oz 3XXX denim - the famous one for fast fades...deep blue denim, very smooth , clean looking denim...nice slim & pretty modern cut...don´t size down..tight as hell

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evisu no1's 2000 cut- very nice denim remonds me of denime's XX denim hairy and shrinks a lot greenish hue to it dont size down atually you size up on these real 14oz.

evisu no2. 2000 cut-not so nice denim . around 12.5oz max for these they claim to be 14oz anyways size down on these theyre sanforized but min shrunk 1 1/2 inch on waist 2 1/2 inch on hem and 1 inch all over after 3 hot soaks .greenish hue too

samurai m310xx delbombers- 19oz. 5000 cut and vx denim stay true to size on these they run a bit small like 3/8 of an inch all over but nice denim never the less

joe mccoys 906 ( sold to kkdisco) - very nice texture slubby but nt so slubby as samurai's ( lets make kkdisco continue this)

eternal 872- true traight cut almost booty on the bottom very nice slubby texture and rich hank dyed color streaky perhaps theyre sanforizedbut sharnk like 1 1/2 inch all over aflter 4 hot soaks..worth a pair if your a true denim head

denime66 ( non XX ) - nice 66 cut , denim is quite hairy very nice deep indigo to them small pocket doesnt have selvedge line on them denim is something else i mean looks nomal but when you touch it theres something to it i dont know.. weird but very nice and cheap pair too

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Eternal 874 - The regular/loose fit version the Eternal 811 (the same exact denim is used). Looser in the thighs and wider below the knee than the 811. Good option if you think 811s are too slim.

45rpm Sorahiko - Beautiful one-wash denim. Not too slubby but it does have irregularities. Really requires dedication to get fading but once it starts, it's perfect. Some people use starch to get better creasing. The cut is classic, not too tight, not too loose (by Superfuture standards, this may be on the loose end of the spectrum though). Timeless and a true payoff for anyone who puts in the time.

SDA-101 - Tough as hell. Regular fit that is more modern than most people think. If you wear your jeans hard as hell, these would be a good project. If you like a really tough pair to fade, SDA is where it's at. The denim doesn't look very exciting at first (really dark and plain) but it becomes something special over time. Beginners may get frustrated with these.

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Samurai S0310XX - 15 Oz Texas cotton. Tight weave, literally hard and rough denim. Waist fits roughly true to size, rest of the jean gives a lot of space. Relaxed fit almost bordering on loose at spots, even on large biker thighs. Even more exciting to fondle than the PBJ denim.

Kato 25SP - fits just like a '47 Levi's repro should. Size down 2 (1 at least) for a true fit. Denim stretches a lot. Very smooth denim, tightly woven. Neil claims they are 100% natural (organic even) indigo. Definitely rope dyed, fade fairly quickly, unusually, and nicely.

PBJ XX-007 - Fits just like the 005, same slubby denim as well, but had died weft threads. Dark, dark jeans to start with, show off every shade of indigo as they fade. I've got patches of royal blue-purple so dark they're nearly black, and whiskers faded to nearly white within inches of each other. Definitely a high-contrast jean when they fade.

PBJ XX-008 - Fit SMALL, size up one, possibly two depending. Be sure to measure before wearing, there appear to be sizing issues. Same silhouette as the 005/007, but whack sizing. Thin, 13ish ounce denim, fades relatively quickly, but nothing like flatheads.

IH 1634 - Just like the 634. In my mind, a nearly perfect cut, slightly slimmer than a standard straight fit. Denim is so soft and whatnot that it almost feels as though it's got a bit of stretch in it. Black. Loses a little color in washes but not much. Shows no crotch wear after 30 days and 400+ miles. Fucking invincible. Even with a hang dry, the denim is fairly soft.

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Edwin ED-47 "Concrete" Greycast Dry Denim. Non-selvage, fairly lightweight (about 10-11 oz). Low Rise with a slight flare. Fades quickly with a high contrast. Surprisingly, somehwat slubby. Great beginner pair of jeans for new comers to raw denim. Downsides would be thinness of denim, lack of colorfast denim, and lack of selvedge.

Sugarcane 1947 A repro in the truest sense of the word, for better or worse. Thick, dark, dense denim. Great color falling properties, can withstand multiple washes while only losing indigo in areas of high abrasion. Starts out as a deep, dark indigo (almost black) and fades out to a brilliant blue. Not terribly slubby. Pink selvedge, hidden rivets and deerskin leather patch makes these feel like something truly special. Downside is that repro cut makes it hard to wear in more modern outfits, but hey, that's what you pay for.

Warehouse Duckdigger 1920 Fantastically quirky jeans. If you're looking for something that will catch the eye of the average passerby, this could be it. Dark, very slubby denim (though not at the level of PBJ or Oni) that becomes incredibly soft over time. Denim fades quite slowly (partially due to the colorfastness of the indigo and partially due to the looser cut). Washes out to a smoky greycast blue. Surprisingly low rise, making it versatile enough to wear with many outfits. Legs are a true straight, stovepipe leg. Great idiosyncratic details such as triple needle stitching, reinforcement decorative stitching in the place of rivets at points of strain, an extra patch of denim for crotch reinforcement, double chainstiched hem, extra big back pockets, and an unusually shaped buckleback that echoes both the U shaped opening of the backpockets and the Dragonfly arcuates on the back pockets.

RRL Slim Fit (07 generation) Modern Jeans with nostlagic details. A surprisingly hardy 12 oz denim that remains quite stiff even after a few washes. A nice modern, skinny tapered cut. Redline selvage and just enough branding to make you feel like you have a special product (RRL embroidered on upper right corner of right backpocket, hot branded leather patch, custom buttons with RRL stamped on the back) A great value if you can find them on eBay in your size.

Warehouse x BiG SUFU 660 Though they initially appear quite plain, I've seen enough used pairs to convince me that they will age beautifully. Cut reminds me of a lower rise, slimmer fitting SC1947. Wider cut legs that taper somewhat from the knee down. Indigo is somewhat purplecast.

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SDA 103 1966 inspired cut with a low rise and wider legs. Incredible dark, slow-fading denim that holds its indigo very well. These can look absolutely stunning with persistence (see McFlip's pair in the XXX thread). They make a good "dress" jean due to the fade that they stay dark for a long, long time, and the low rise allows you to tuck in a button-down shirt. These are slightly greenish-turcoise cast with fading.

Flahead 3003 WWII model made with the famous 3XXX denim. Fast fading with pronounced vertical falling and true-blue color. Fairly slim through the thighs with a large knee and leg opening. The pockets are very hard to get into, but otherwise a great jean.

PBJ XX-003 The closest thing PBJ makes to a repro; low rise with wide legs. The cut tends to accentuate crotch bulge. Super slubby denim that is multi-hued (shades of green and purple) and fades well. These are fairly stubborn to fade, but not as bad as SDA 103s.

Imperial King Loose fit from Imperial. Nice sanforized denim which fades similarliy to Nudie denim, but is less prone to rips. The hardware seems cheep compared to the rest of the jean. The older models had large back pockets which were off-putting to some, but new runs have smaller pockets. A great jean if you can get them cheap, but full price can get you a better japanese repro.

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Kapital TH-Straight -- my jeans of the moment. very hairy, 13,5 oz, dark and soft - absolutely loaded with lovely dark indigo. Very high and narrow waisted -- will only fit quite slim people properly. Feel like cowboy 'slacks' rather than jeans. Size runs true.

Japan-stock Evisu 2000 No.2 -- underrated jean. 14 oz green-cast, slubby, high contrast fade. Size down like mad (-2). Sanforized, but a bit short on leg length - avoid if you are much over 6 foot tall.

Dry Bones -- Sanforized; size way down (like -2). Nice denim, but will give you a lower-contrast fade. Probably not worth the effort.

LVC (all models) -- have never got a good fade from modern-day Cone Mills denim, sorry to say.

Iron Heart --- great for hard bicyle-riding, garden-work, and every other kind of job where you will really really (really..) mistreat your clothing. But the denim is too smooth and the indigo too pale to be really classic denim. Contrast not great. Size true.

Yen 105 --- Unusual indigo colour, almost purple. Also, brown (not white) weft. You must really never wash them, though. Even Bears, who one-wash every pair of jeans they sell, don't wash these. Unsanforized, but size down anyway, maybe -2, and just wear the f**k out of them.

Edwin Lee (all models) --- probably Real McCoy or Warehouse Lee repros are preferable, because these develop a slightly 'muddy' fade. All left-hand twill denim is harder to fade than right-hand twill (maybe because it has a softer hand), although eventually it can be done. Sanorized. Size down -2.

Samurai --- all great, All un-sanforized. Lovely long legs. Size down -1. They will eventually fit you.

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Corpus Coal Selvage --- My current pair, tight weave selvage denim, 5 pocket straight leg thats a little bit on the slim side. denim isnt very thick, but its definitely study. Fading on this doesnt seem to occur at the lightspeed as jeans like nudie but wheres the fun in fading something over night?

pics from joey_formal of SF:






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apc rescue- same denim as the apc new standard. 12 oz. a fuller cut and more of a straight leg as opposed to the tapered look. a good jean if you're looking for more a relaxed cut. eventually will loosen after a tight fit at first. size down 2. great jeans.

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Nudie RRDS

Not exactly cheap at retail, but can be found online for a decent price, nice smooth and shiny Japanese denim, its a little bit lightweight, but worked wonders for me in the aussie summer. Slight bootcut and low rise, looks good on pretty much anyone, size down 1. Fades great, mine went to a very slight greencast after a few washes.

Samurai s5000VX

Rise was very low compared to my other jeans, denim was very stiff and heavy after I soaked them but got soft very quickly. The denim is very slubby, not as dark as I thought, could be from the increased grin of having 17oz denim. (More exposed weft) Didn't shrink much with many hot soaks, has to be washed hot for full shrinkage. Cut was a little bit too straight for me, I prefer a slight taper. Size down 1, stretches a lot.

Samurai 710 19oz

Heavy and slubby just like most of the samurai range. Feels slightly heavier than the 5000, rough texture to the touch, denim colour wasn't as rich of a blue as I had thought, again not as dark as it could be because of the grin. Rise is high and they taper a fair amount. Amazing details, I stayed true to size. Fit tight.

The Flat Head 3001

Denim is very dark and very blue, has a very unique hue. Slightly slubby but very hairy. Medium rise and the fit was very tight in the thighs, a true straight leg imo, not much if any taper. Ass was anti-fit, the crease pattern the 3001 created for me was different to most of my other jeans. I sized up to account for the tight thighs.

Imperial Duke (Indigo)

Straight slim cut, very high rise, extremely stiff and smooth and not hairy at all, similar to the RRDS material but thicker. Large backpockets and very long inseam, no chainstitch though. Felled seams throughout and selvage goes all the way to the top of the jeans. Stretch a fair amount but I wouldn't recommend sizing down. I got my true size. Creases set in very fast. Patch was ridiculously thick and awesome.

Evisu 2000 No.2 Made in Japan

66 repro, so high rise, hip flares and tapering leg. I've got the tiger selvage version so mine are greencast, the denim is slightly slubby and hairy. Fades out fast imo and creates an awesome vintage crease pattern in the lap with thigh whiskers and nice blocky honeycombs. Inseam shrinks about an inch after you wash them. Cut is regular/slim, hips are quite loose but its a repro after all. Some amazing details on these jeans, extra strips of canvas in the pocket bags, half lined pockets, crotch rivets etc. Bit expensive but much more value than the no1 denim imo. I sized down 1. I could go down another 1.

Skull 5010xx 6x6

Texas cotton, but none slubby denim. Shiny when raw, hairy once soaked/washed. Very dark and a nice medium weight for all year round wear. Medium rise and fits regular in the butt, not ass hugging but not anti-fit either. I found the cut more suited for me than the FH3001, looser in the thigh and with more taper so it actually looks straight on me. Shrunk up probably a half-1 size after I hot washed them, still very dark and fade ridiculously fast. I sized up one, but could have kept my true size for a tighter fit.

Denim Junkie 501XX (heavy version)

Absolutely crazy details, reverse denim pocket bags, leather stumped rivets, double leather patch, double chainstitch hem etc etc. Slim cut but the slight bootcut put me off. The heavy version is a little different to the original, more 501 like, straighter and with more of a hip flare. Denim felt very thick and stiff, creased great, Rise was high, mine were too big, I'd say size down or keep your true size, they shrink heaps though. Beware of a short inseam though.

I have owned other pairs but they are mostly nudies or other misc. brands. So far this is most of the pairs I've attempted to wear in.

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evisu heritage wrangler- 12oz broken twill sanforized denim. much lighter new than most raw jeans... and heavy green tones. more of an aqua color than deep indigo, tho there is a bit of color variance in the warp threads. very smooth feel, but warp and weft thread thickness varys quite a bit. all of the normal evisu details are there... crotch rivet, extra reinforced pocketbags, lined back pockets, offset belt loops, hidden rivets. boxy, loose top block, tapered leg.

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Super tightly woven, 14 oz. (mid-weight do-able for all seasons), deep indigo shade, low rise, long inseam, zero branding, modern straight fit with a slight taper (slimmer than most "straight leg" fits). Not easy to fade, but you don't have to buy 'em SuFu TIGHT to set up incredible honey-combs, whiskers, etc. 100% cotton threading so wash frequently. Got many compliments wearing them, the denim looks really incredible. I'm getting the slims and the black models as well. These are sanforized and don't stretch like APC's (WILL stretch in the waist but no serious knee buldge)...thanks to the super tight weave...so buy true to size for a slimmer fit that isn't nut hugging.

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  • 1 month later...

what has yet to be added:

fullcount 1310 BLK: zimbabwe cotton generally tends to stretch a ton and these are no different. They have a unique shine and fade quickly. This slim cut runs on the smaller side, however, i do recommend buying true to size as they come in a one-wash state. the only complaint i have is the front rise -- it is a little higher than i prefer. but if you are in the market for a black jean put these on your list to check out.

oni blues: perfect in nearly every respect. the cut is on the regular side but they still have a flattering look. the slubby texture is first rate and fade relatively quickly. buy at least -1 down from your true waist size. everyone should have a pair of these in your closet.

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Atelier laDurance

Nice 14 oz denim,which developes some nice vertical fading, but the whiskers and combs can take a while because they are roomy.

Comfort fit, but I guess pretty baggy compared with the "regular" sufu-fit...

They strech quite alot and don't shrink that much because they are sanforized.

Nice details, although the pockets could turn some people off.

Only turn offs except for the pockets would be the large size for some people, and that they don't have uneven numbered sizes. so for example only 30x33 followed up by the 32x33 (from waist 32 also available with 35 lenght)

Great pair of jeans if you are looking for something that is abit looser in the thighs.

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