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Ann Demeulemeester Men's S/S 08


chris

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A scratchy recording of an interview with art provocateur Marcel Duchamp opened Ann Demeulemeester's latest show. It came from an old disc her husband Patrick found in a market in Shanghai. "Wouldn't it be Dada to use this as the music in our next show?"' he wondered to Ann, and that's how the anarchic art movement ended up as her inspiration. But Dada was a subtle presence. The designer imagined an eccentric artist on holiday in the south of France, a man who felt free enough to mix dressing for morning, noon, and nighttime. What this meant in practice was Demeulemeester's favorite male muse—the poetic dreamer—wearing a little more color than usual, and trading his customary dark layers for clothes worked in every shade of white. Stripes of red and orange on shirts, jackets, and linings evoked Riviera awnings, and freshened up the palette. Jacquards in cotton added a luxe that was lighter than usual.

As for the art, a suit's stencil pattern suggested Braque's Cubist period. You're familiar with sleeveless shirts? Ann offered shirtless sleeves ("a remembrance of writers," she cryptically called them). In his interview, renowned dandy Duchamp talked about the durability of the no-conformist spirit. He would have recognized a like-minded soul in Demeulemeester.

— Tim Blanks

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I Love the thought and "philosophy" behind the Dada movement... Hmm Dunno if that helps me look at this collection differently now... This collection doesn't blow me away, I mean some pieces work, and some pieces dont. Some of the styling is just a flop. But anyway, Ann D. is one heck of a talent. I'll always be waiting for her collections.

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from first view the styling is bad, the loud patterns on a lot of garments automatically dates the pieces to this collection and that is never a good thing IMO, I generally prefer items that can be worn without being tiresome season after season. however i'm optimistic that the outfits, when broken down will reveal some real nice, unique pieces.

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Hi, my name is Ann Demeulemeester and I lost my edge. This is so safe for her it hurts me to have to look at it. The balance between Eros and Thanatos has completely disappeared, leaving the garments as empty representations of a flattened stereotype of “romanticismâ€. To go from deconstruction to representation is an enormous step back.

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