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Selvage, set the record straight.


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^

Yep, I got 2 pairs of Workshop denim when I was 15! icon_smile.gif

You're a New Zealander?

--- Original message by Aotearoa on Jun 14, 2005 05:36 AM

Yeah mate from the Cher Cher. Workshop Jeans are mint, have had many pairs over the years. I want to get some new ones though
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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

In case anyone checks this thread out, a few weeks ago I asked an acquaintance what looms Kurabo use for their selvage. They are mostly Toyoda.

Evis's first selvage fabric came from Kurabo. That fabric was almost certainly made on toyoda looms. The story about Cone selling their looms to Evis is, as far as all the available evidence shows, complete bollox.

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  • 5 months later...
In case anyone checks this thread out, a few weeks ago I asked an acquaintance what looms Kurabo use for their selvage. They are mostly Toyoda.

Evis's first selvage fabric came from Kurabo. That fabric was almost certainly made on toyoda looms. The story about Cone selling their looms to Evis is, as far as all the available evidence shows, complete bollox.

I think Urban Sprawl recently confirmed this bollox during his trip to Japan. And no one at Cone ever confirmed that the looms in question were sold. Alas I believe the rumor is dead. Evis never had the looms. Japan doesn't seem to have them either.

But who does?

Maybe no one?

Maybe, like so many other treasures, they were deemed useless and disposed of.

Will we ever know?

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I think Urban Sprawl recently confirmed this bollox during his trip to Japan. And no one at Cone ever confirmed that the looms in question were sold. Alas I believe the rumor is dead. Evis never had the looms. Japan doesn't seem to have them either.

But who does?

Maybe no one?

Maybe, like so many other treasures, they were deemed useless and disposed of.

Will we ever know?

a couple months ago, i had a meeting with a cone sales executive at their new york office. he confirmed to me that some of the looms, but not all were indeed sold to japanese companies. so, at least one person at cone is confirming this.

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a couple months ago, i had a meeting with a cone sales executive at their new york office. he confirmed to me that some of the looms, but not all were indeed sold to japanese companies. so, at least one person at cone is confirming this.

hey miz youre thinking of making some more jeans?

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yes, i am. i've been super, super busy with other work related stuff.

i am almost finished with my jacket, right now it's only a selvage denim vest.

i am itching to make a selvage denim pair of shorts.

word? man if its proper, i mgiht order one from you. hehe.

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This is the type of modern-era shuttle loom that most Japanese selvege denim is (and has been) produced on:

syatoruki1.jpg

This one is owned by the Okamoto Textile Company, located down in Ibaraichi in Okayama prefecture --- typical of the smaller textile companies catering to independent jeans makers (total number of employees: 10 ! ). They do their own rope-dying and have several shuttle looms to accommodate the small runs required by their customers. The total annual turnover of the company is less than USD 4million

If someone can show me a similar photo of an ex-Cone Mills shuttle loom in action in Japan I'll maybe believe story that most/some/all (choose which) Cone Mills looms were bought by the Japanese.

.

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  • 3 months later...

hello,

Just read you're posts and you do know your looming and looms. one or two thing got me, I work for a Japanese denim company and have been in the Denim work for a long time (over 20 years) all in the 'narrow loom' business, alot of Japanese looms were shipped in the 40's and early 50's by US companies using the 're-build' tax law after the war..... idea being, if your company added the rebuilding of Japan with whatever, you'd get a large tax refund/break. so Lee, Levi, VF and the like shiped dead looms to japan and cashed in, most of these looms are still in use in the small family 'simpi' business in japan. very little of this fabric makes it out.

the other thing is a good fabric is build from good threads too, some of the best cotton in the world comes from Zimbabwe, when we talk of denim we all talk of it as the finshed jeans, it comes for many places, look to the double harvest pot Indigo too and the drop spining of the thread and the hank dying,

I love the post and have found much of what you say very informative

I thank you for that

Neil

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One thing I read earlier on was that early Levis were slubby. I've seen several NWT pairs from the 40s & 50s and the ones I saw were not all that slubby. Heres an original pair of late 30s early 40s 501s on e-bay right now and they look like they've never been washed. Not very slubby.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-1940s-Levis-Jeans-Big-E-501XX-Waist-Overalls_W0QQitemZ200034188941QQihZ010QQcategoryZ52386QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I wonder how much they'll go for $4500 now.

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Be as nosey as you like....

I work with Kato' brand, we're a small denim label based in Kyoto but I work on the export side and have just opened the export company (KATO' (E)Ltd.) dealing with the US and Europe, but we're keeping our production in Japan.

thanks for asking

Neil

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