starting a denim company

[vinz]

A friend of mine is starting a denim line on his own. I'm helping him out by testing a few pairs of his proto's. I found my experiences with meeting with him and talking about his progress of his denim line interesting. I figured that I some people on Superfuture might find it interesting also.

We both used to work for a denim company a couple years ago. I was a graphic designer and he worked as a merchandiser for the company. We had access to denim development as the company had it's own wash house, sewing floor and embroidery machines. We both ended up leaving the company but we're still in the garment industry (I work in a lifestyle apparel company and he works for an active apparel company). When I found out that he was starting his own denim company on the side. I sent him an e-mail to ask if he needed a hand with anything. Right now I'm going to start wearing his second proto, the fit is right now, it just needs the right hardware and styling.

The patterns are professionally made through a pattern maker we both worked with. Right now he's getting his samples made up by a factory in Canada.

He's going to get them manufactured in Canada also.

It's a slow process it's been almost a year now I think he's going to get his first run of jeans made up pretty soon. Because he is doing this on his own pretty much and he's doing it while working at a full time job, it's a slow process. It's interesting being a part of the process, checking out the hardware that he's planning to put on the jean and what not. It's an ambitious side project as he put a lot of money into development already and has enough fabric to make 200 pairs of jeans. With sourcing out fabric, to talking to manufacturers sounded like it can be quite a lot of work.

The fit is pretty damn good. I have 2 of his newer proto's one in a redline 14oz selvage denim. It has a few wears on it right now, I'm cold soaking it to check out the shrinkage. It's measuring at 33" waist and 7.75" leg opening pre soak. I'll update with photos next post.

[unklesteve]

Sounds nifty. Don't let him cut any corners, or there'll be hell to pay.

[sybaritical]

Thanks for sharing.

How about some pics?

[sidneylo]

Ande Whall, you've been called out!

I wanna see some denim wars baby. Pics please too.

[Pandemonium]

Would like to see the design.

Are they modern slim cuts or repros?

[vinz]

Here are some images as promised

Right now the only thing that is set is the denim, and the fit. He said he still needs to get the pattern graded. As far as everything else like the back patch, pocket lining, rivets and etc that's still open.

The jean is suppose to be a modern fit but with some repo detailing. He's a big fan of LVC's

I think he was ready to give it up a few months ago. It was starting to eat at his savings and I think that doing this jean thing while working full time with a family is hard on him. But the last time I talked to him it seemed like he's going to progress with what he's got. He has a great relationship with the manufacturer and that goes a long way. Maybe this post will help push him in the right direction.

They're drying right now, I'll get some pics of me wearing them tomorrow. I also got some hardware that he's going to use for the jean that I gotta take pictures of. I also got another proto that has never been worn with slightly different styling that I should take pictures of also.

[Dogfarm]

Those look spicy. Maybe you need some help from fellow Canadians to help spread the denim new and wear your jeans as promotions in other Canadian cities. I will help if they are as sweet as they look in your pictures. I like the x bar tacking in the back looks, I am a big fan of lees that is why I like the x bar tacking.

[hendo99]

Those look really good. I also like the x bar tacking. Do you know when the first run will be made?

[d is for dru]

Those look pretti sex, you should keep us updated on the progress, looks great so far.

[vinz]

I'm not sure when the first run is going to be made, hopefully before the summer.

I got an e-mail from him this morning, he said in his wash testing there was zero shrinkage. After my soak I think the only thing I noticed was the waist shrunk one inch. The length and the leg opening seem to be the same.

My only change I think he should make is to make the inseam longer, right now the inseam is 33" which is perfect for me, but I think making it a 34" inseam for a size 32 would be better.

I'm wearing them right now, still a bit damp.

Here are some pics of the hardware that he's going to put on the jean, I tried scratching a button and it shows copper underneath. I think that with some wear the hardware should change color.

What do you guys think, X bartacking on the pockets, external rivets, or hidden rivets? I think he's leaning towards hidden rivets. I like external rivets or the X bartacks.

[ktouran6923]

external rivets are blah. go either for the bar tacks or hidden

[__3xL]

bar tacks keep it simple . Lined backpockets would be nice though .. 1/ 2 at least

[Dogfarm]

I like the look of the bar tacking but if he is an LVC nut I imagine he would lean more towards the hidden rivet. I agree lined pockets would be nice or half lined.

[andewhall]

Hi Vinz, awesome man thanks for sharing. Really nice project you guys got going on. I have always liked external rivets, are there no other external rivets lovers out there? DenimBirds look good, Wranglers....who else uses externals?

Funny Vinz, I was actually looking at your 'Youngest in Charge' website yesterday and thinking what you were up too. BunFan;)

[knucks]

I like external rivets on my light pair of Wrangler, but I think external rivets look bad on raw denim.

[spackadam]

need any American models to wear em around?

[vinz]

As promised here are the pics of me wearing them.

In terms of protos, I think there were a half dozen made up in 3 different fabrics and 2 different fits. I think there's only a couple pairs floating around as wear samples and the rest are kept as samples.

Hey Ande I'm a huge fan of your denim.

Just to let you guys know, I pretty much have no real part in his business. Besides getting a pair to wear down, and offering whatever help I can, I pretty much just give my opinion on his jeans. With that being said anything you guys want to add in terms of comments is greatly appreciated. Initially when he told me about his project, he really wanted to make a jean that's for the people. Make a high quality selvage denim jean at a reasonable price.

Next post I'll put up some close up images of the denim.

[trees]

i really like the fit, id definetly be interested in getting a pair. only thing i would suggest is a longer inseam.

is his company based out of canada?

[Guest Airjamie]

You said those are a size 32? The fit on them is fantastic, they look pretty slim for that size.

[lestat]

oooh looks nice... maybe a little too tight for my tastes though...

got any samples floating around? i'd like to get my hands on a pair to try =)

[hendo99]

Deff go with the x bar tacking or the hidden rivets. Tell him to do long inseams, 33 is too short, at least 34 or 36.

[cheapmuthafukr]

good job. i like those.

[Chicken]

What do you guys think, X bartacking on the pockets, external rivets, or hidden rivets? I think he's leaning towards hidden rivets. I like external rivets or the X bartacks.

i prefer hidden rivets because of the rugged fades they produce as i wear them. but i have nothing against x bartacks, either. but i don't like the way external rivets look on back pockets.

nice jeans, btw.

[chronoaug]

I definitely think an inch or two longer inseam in that picture would look a bit better, but i like them. Fit looks solid. Looking forward to hearing/seeing more.

[Pandemonium]

Really digging the fit.

I'm +1 for hidden rivets.

Just don't like it when something scratches because of an external rivet.

[tion4->]

quite impressed...nice fit

[vinz]

Here are some close up images of the denim.

[poly800rock]

are you going to put a "bun" on the leather patch?

[Guest mwills]

Looks good, but as mentioned before a longer inseam would help IMHO.

[Darkadious]

i love the fit. as mentioned many times, longer inseam would be nice

can we get an estimate on the price?