Evolving Levi's 501 Cut...

[Jim Cissell]

I was wondering if anyone has an accurate rundown on the various cuts - or designs - over the years of the 501 jeans? I understand that about every 10 years or so, Levi's tweaks their design of the 501s to reflect the taste of the times - subtle changes - but changes, nonetheless. This latest redesign supposedly takes its cue from the 1947 model - complete with the single-stitch inseam treatment. The cut prior to the 2003 revision was my favorite, but that is probably based on the fact I have been wearing it for a decade or so, and am simply used to it. Any insight into these design tweaks would be apprerciated...

Thanks, Jim

Jim Cissell

[ringring]

There's probably several books/mags that document the evolution of 501s. Try the Japanese magazine Lightning, volume 9, 2004. Pictured are various 501s from the 1890s to modern versions.

If I'm not mistaken, Levis also include a small booklet with a potted history of 501s with their LVCs.

[docdoom]

I jotted these down a few months ago, though im usre lots of people could correct them...

1873 – First Blue Jean created, 9oz denim, cinch, leather patch

1886 – First ‘501’, 2-horse patch introduced

1901 – Second back pocket introduced

1927 – 10oz denim introduced

1936 – Red Tab introduced

1937 – Suspender buttons removed

1943 – Cinch (martingale) removed

1944 – Arcuate painted, not stitched, watch-pocket rivets dropped

1947 – Stitched arcuates and watch-pocket rivets back, arcuates become twin-needle stitched (diamond apparent at base)

1953 – Red Tab made double-sided

1955 – Paper patch introduced

1965 – Nipple top alloy rivets introduced

1966 – Watch-pocket bar-tacked not riveted

[Serge d Nimes]

I think that last one should read Rear pockets bartacked not riveted. Also, top seam double stitched and no watch pocket selvage.

Carpe Denim!

[Guest]

I appreciate the responses, but the details I was interested in were about the fit of the jeans through the years. The best info I had was from a few years ago on the European Vintage Levi's site. It touched on some of the these fits, but I have yet to discover any hard information on how these cuts and design details varied from era-to-era. The limited literature that accompanies the LVC garmets just doesn't go into adequate detail about the product, including the actual design/fit history.

The British company Aeroleather hints at some of the fits, but it seems there would be some highly detailed information available out there.

My last insight was actually given to me right after the redesign of the 2003 ('Anti-fit') 501s by an e-mail contact at Levi's, proper. He briefly told me about the 1947 design 'connection', including the lack of the felled inseam (he said the latest single inseam treatment was actually stronger than the felled). Anyway, I was just hoping someone had some detailed info on those 501 fits thru the ages...

Jim