quality of denim

[psyiko]

what are all your opinions on jeans like true religon, von dutch, seven, citizens of humanity, stuff like that. is it just expensive because of its brand name? and could you list a few pointers in looking for quality so i dont have to bother you guys again? thanks all!

[ringring]

Jeans, particularly brands that you mentioned above, are first and foremost fashion items. So their 'qualities' are somewhat subjective, particularly for washed jeans.

Just buy what you like. But yes, brand name does have an effect on the cost of the jeans.

Other pointers for quality if denim would be:

Ring-Ring yarn. That's a basic pointer for quality. See this link: http://superfuture.com/city/supertalk/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=817&start=61

Selvage/Selvedge - two different ways to spell the same thing. Narrow, shuttle loom denim is a good overall indicator for high quality denim. There's a lot of discussion about selvage on this forum, just dig around.

Then it would be worth looking for a compact denim, whatever the weight, not spongey. And if you are looking for stretch denims, then make sure they barely stretch at all. You don't want something that stretches like pizza dough.

[Lex2]

I think ringring is right on the money there, re: jeans as fashion items. I like the horological analogy as an example. You can buy a Dior Homme or Paul Smith watch but in terms of horological history and pedigree, they're not quite "there", compared to, for example, a Patek or Jaeger le Coultre with their inhouse movements and varius complications (i.e "shuttle loom" denim equivalent). Not to say that the "quality" isn't there. Fashionistas would go for the Diesels and True Religions of the world, but a denim nerd would probably query the quality of denim first before making a purchase, be it Gap or 45rpm or Levis. Just like a watch idiot savant would buy a Dior watch not because Hedi Slimane designed it, but because it uses a Zenith El Primero movement.

Edited by Lex2 on May 7, 2005 at 06:32 AM

[trinket]

watches and denim... yeah!

do many brands that actually make their own denim? (that is kindof equivalent to in-house movement )

i don't know enough about this area. most brands seem to source their denim from larger mills - especially japanese mills, but I assume that Levis, Evisu (japan), 45RPM, Denime, SD'A, and probably Rogan have their own mills?

i'd be interested to see a list of brands that do the whole production.

_trinket

Edited by trinket on May 7, 2005 at 07:23 AM

[skecr8r]

No, quite few brands actually make their own denim, afaik.

Ask Indigo_pete or RingRing on this one, this is just my tidbit of information.

Denim Fanatismé.

The Arc - Hitting the selvage from August 1st 2005.

[script]

forgive me guys...it's been awhile since i found time to check what's going on...

can help?

how do you guys rate a paul smith selvedge?

i was at a hand-me-down today and i saw a pair. condition 8/10. no tear and holes except some worn marks around but i would consider not serious. and has 5 donuts. love donuts.

also a pair of big-john seldvedge with suspender copper-like buttons.

i didnt get more details but should have.

are they considered quality denim because they are selvedge and double ring spun and stuff?

write your own script

[ringring]

Trinket - vertical production exists but it's still quite rare for a brand to spin and weave it's own denim. Vertical suppliers are more likely to produce for other brands rather than their own.

Script - Paul Smith & Big John have been doing selvedge for a long time. It's probably good stuff, but again, it's up to your personal preferences if you rate them or not.

[script]

good to know they do have some history on selvedge. think i'm feeling the paul smith ones but i'll think about it as i'm expecting a pair of sugar cane Lot SD510 soon.[i think,cant really recall] fingers cross.....that they have my size.....

thanks ringring. appreciate your help.

write your own script

[ringring]

Canes huh? You're notching up some fine denims

[script]

been waiting for the chance to come...either cane or dry bones

may end up nothing as my friend isn't a denim fan

write your own script

[Geowu]

I wonder what's the difference on Sugarcanes and Buzz Ricksons, since both look pretty much the same, are made by the same company (see historypreservation.com), but Rickson's cost 70 dollars more. Rickson's have a "Quartermaster approved" thing written on the label, does it have anything to do with the price raising?