Thoughts on 5EP jeans.

[Tytan]

any?

[Serge d Nimes]

I would like a pair! I saw them in Amer. Rag in LA, but they didn't have any raw ones.

Carpe Denim!

[Qamain]

Only thinig i know is hanon-shop.com do them. And they're dead expenzive!

[soultek]

I just bought a pair of the straight leg ones at American Rag in LA and mr. Serge said. They're not raw, but look like they've been rinsed once. They also had a rinsed boot cut too. I noticed that there seemed to be two distinctly different shades of indigo on the different jeans. I bought the one that had a slightly greenish tint to them. The tint wasn't obvious from the outside of the jean, but if you look at the bleed from the wash on the pockets and backside of the denim, it's definitely greenish.

I tried on Earnest Sewn (raw selvedge), Nudie RR, Sunday N Company, PRPS. I liked these the best. I'm not as expert as some on here, but it seems to me that 5EP is a standard 5 pocket selvedge jean, but there are slight changes they made to make the fit a little more modern. I felt like it fit better than PRPS and Sunday N Company which were sort of the same 5 pocket style one wash. But of course it is subjective. The quality of the denim seems very very good. And once you put them on, you can feel it. The stitching looks like two different colors (yellow and an orange) but the wash had sort of blended them together. The no sloppy stiching at all. hidden rivets in the back pockets. smooth rivets on the front. deep pockets. subtle pocket stitching in a dark color. I'll try to post pics. how do i do that anyone???

I wore them for the first time yesterday, they were quite comfortable right away unlike my Dope + Drakkar jeans that I also bought rinsed.

Highly recommended. What struck me was that these were unquestionably very well made jeans. I can appreciate that since I build things for a living. Then again, maybe I'm trying to make myself feel better for dropping the dough!

ringring seems like a fan of them, he's posted a bunch of stuff about 5EP denim in the past.

[Geowu]

hi soultek, - I would really like to see some pics of your dope + drakkar jeans too

you can use this site to host the pics: http://www.imageshack.ws/

[hahnstch]

soultek, did you try the earnest sewn selvedge? i tried once before, the denim feels very light, i wonder what kind of selvedge they're using (ie. how many ounces) and whether they can endure heavy wear...

[soultek]

I tried on the Earnest Sewn. I really liked the light blue/orange stitching. The fit was cool too. But I agree with you, they seemed like raw versions of their normal denim. Lighter weight than most premium brands. They were really starchy of course too.

Said that it was Japanese denim that's all, I don't think there was a weight to the denim listed. I think they're made in the US. Didn't ringring say they use the same denim mill that gap and paper and all them use? i don't remember.

Little things like stitching irregularities (unless intentional) or frayed stitching can bother me, and after I checked them out a second time, it seems like he is 'riding the selvedge bandwagon' to a certain extent. They still weren't bad at all, and here in LA it makes sense to have a light weight pair of denim for the summer. Variety you know?

[ringring]

soultek: ringring seems like a fan of them, he's posted a bunch of stuff about 5EP denim in the past.

Yes, I like 5EP very much. Lots of nice details as posted above and on previous threads (fell inseam, no-ecru selvage outseam, 'no-scratch' rivets, wrangler-style coin pocket, skinny belt loops, indigo thread <=> logo, etc...). Excellent jeans.

Edited by ringring on Apr 23, 2005 at 11:13 PM

[hahnstch]

imo, the earnest sewn fit is very nice, but i do feel bothered by the weight of the denim. and yea, the tag did say that the fabric is made in japan and constructed in USA. i wont be surprised if they use the same denim as paper, as they are owned by the same person.

i am pretty sure that the stitching irregularities are intentional. check this pic

http://store1.yimg.com/I/gostore_1841_31964905

[Tytan]

aside from Famous Friends (that's where i saw 5EPs), where else in nyc sells them?

cheers.

[hahnstch]

Union

[wild_whiskey]

Pictures! PICTURES!!

Oh by the way, can anyone run me by the current prices for 45rpm, if anyone's been to the US store? I am under the understanding that some of their jeans run ~$400. I've got a chunk of money and a trip to NYC planned, and I intend to use it.

Edited by wild_whiskey on Apr 24, 2005 at 11:27 AM

[Lex2]

Sizes at hanon-shop are normally limited since these jeans sell out really fast. They do provide quick delivery though and if the article is shown to be IN STOCK then it really is in stock, since their shopping site is directly linked to the inventory system/database (unlike other dodgy retailers).

[hahnstch]

whiskey, i was there at 45 rpm yesterday, i think i can give you some rough picture of the pricing. the most expensive line (aihiko?) is about $700, sorahiko should hover around $350ish. they also carry BC4000 (the 14-ounce-like 9.5 ounce denim), price should be around $350ish as well. on a side note, the guy who served me yesterday looks very well-informed about his stuff. he knows which ones are rope-dyed, which ones are left hand twill etc, unlike storekeepers in some other places who know nothing about their stuff

[Analyst]

Hahnstch,at 45rpm, where the aikiko and sorahiko's one wash or raw unwashed?

[hahnstch]

one wash, right hand twill

[soultek]

Okay, here's a bunch of pics of the Dope + Drakkar 1100's, Size 36/34.

Owned for about 1 year, I bought them from a store that had actually rinsed the dry denim they got from the manufacturer. (they gave me a discount). It would have been nice to get a 34, but this is all they had, everything else was way too small. I wore them for maybe 3-4 months and then I put them inside out in the washing machine w/ no soap regular cycle. I did this one more time a couple months later, and I soaked them in hot water (to try to get them to shrink) a few weeks ago. I finally put them in a delicate cold water wash cycle w/ soap for the first time last week. I had done a lot of metal work in the past year and they were starting to smell metally. Hung dry only.

Supposedly D + D is being sued by Levi's for placement of their rear pocket tag. Which means no US retailer can carry them until the lawsuit is settled.

The pics make the jeans look 'blue-er' than they really are. they are a darker more indigoy color in real life.

http://img135.echo.cx/my.php?image=dscn00224jm.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/6633/dscn00255oq.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/4305/dscn00260oe.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/4913/dscn00278ju.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/999/dscn00286kp.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/9457/dscn00297pu.jpg

http://img16.echo.cx/img16/4647/dscn00303tm.jpg

http://img20.echo.cx/img20/588/dscn00236rj.jpg

http://img20.echo.cx/img20/4707/dscn00316cc.jpg

http://img20.echo.cx/img20/3395/dscn00330yl.jpg

http://img20.echo.cx/img20/34/dscn00326rs.jpg

http://img91.echo.cx/img91/878/dscn00360qv.jpg

http://img91.echo.cx/img91/9296/dscn00379xp.jpg

http://img91.echo.cx/img91/4403/dscn00349xh.jpg

http://img91.echo.cx/img91/585/dscn00200yv.jpg

http://img91.echo.cx/img91/2801/dscn00353zi.jpg

[soultek]

Here's the straight leg 5EPs I just got. 34/32. note the greenish bleed from the rinse on the inside of the jean.

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/9346/dscn00387nz.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/1689/dscn00394as.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/9317/dscn00407we.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/9371/dscn00414sf.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/9041/dscn00420qw.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/8297/dscn00431zh.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/3197/dscn00440kf.jpg

http://img103.echo.cx/img103/5707/dscn00451bq.jpg

http://img175.echo.cx/img175/807/dscn00464po.jpg

[Serge d Nimes]

Both pairs are really nice. The D+Ds have aged like a pair of 1947 repros I have.

Carpe Denim!

[Lex2]

The 5EPs are really nice. My pair is slightly on the slim side (or maybe I'm getting fat) but fabric/cutting are top notch. Wish it was slightly more lower rise, though, like my Regular Ralf. Love the Wrangler coin pocket.

[krush021]

the sorahiko come in at just under $400, the bc 4000 at $475, and the aihiko from $700-ish up to $1400 for the customs.

RHFIV

[krush021]

sorry...that was in response to the questionj about 45rpm pricing...

RHFIV

[hahnstch]

oops, my bad on the post on the pricing. the 350ish is for their workpant like washed jeans. yea, the sorahiko should be $380 before tax (correct?), but i dont recall that bc 4000 to be as expensive as krush021 suggested..

[shinobi2000]

I just bought a pair of the BC4000s...$478 without tax, $519 with...yes they are THAT expensive!!! I'm still woozy from that hit to my wallet but let me tell you... they are f%#ing gorgeous!!!! I was standing there in the store for the longest time comparing them to the non BCs and thinking...they aren't THAT different, maybe I should just save myself $100 and get the cheaper ones...but it's no joke, the BCs are several tons lighter and they just feel better than the regular Sorahikos. I sucked it up and bought the BCs. That was a a week or two ago, today when I'm standing in front of my closet for whatever reason, I still can't help but reach out to them and run my fingers over the fabric. In the other thread someone corrected the TimeOutUK article that 45rpm, and not Prps, is the rolls royce of denim...I totally agree. I have a pair of Prps, these 45rpms kick their ass any day.

[leviathan]

What's the fit like on the BCs? Is is wider or just the same as the standard fit sorahikos? I found them a little too narrow when I tried on.

[docdoom]

funny how much more onje leg of the d+ds has twisted round more than the other. is it a yellow selvedge thred or just washed out?

[docdoom]

5eps looking nice there man. nice subtle coin pocket. not sure about the leather label, but i think that will look nice after some wear probably, is the cut straight up normal 501, looks it.

[ringring]

Quote:

funny how much more onje leg of the d+ds has twisted round more than the other. is it a yellow selvedge thred or just washed out?

--- Original message by docdoom on Apr 25, 2005 06:53 AM

For me, both legs have twisted round about the same amount in a pretty typical way for RH selvedge.

[soultek]

Yes, the selvedge thread is yellow. Ringring is right, both legs twist around the same direction about the same amount.

We should really start a meta-thread of links of and actual denim pics. That would be neat.

[docdoom]

great idea soul^ we could get a sticky and everybody put up phtos of favoured jeans with presice detials about wear, wash, age, cut, size, make and model. the nerd in me loves stuff like this so much!!

im just making a databse of all the films ive seen ordered by date, director and nationality