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You might want to get some clips+straps...

i know i just need to get some money first. i want to get a set of dropbars too and eventually a new crankset.

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Definitely hitting up Trackstar..what's Bike Habitat got to offer? how are their prices?

prices are alright. They have a couple of good components/bars and stuff. They just got a carbon/aluminum gan well frame and built it up. Probably one of the nicest bikes I've seen. They also have a ton of bags too.

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010211010410010302200707183f0f63b09dd1b33b7500f719.jpg

*not actual photo but exactly the same.

picked this up today cheap at a local shop brand new for $400...indifferent about the trackends on these cayne uno frames but not in favor of it i guess...

ill be switching out the saddle, takin off back brakes.

ill put up some better pictures soon

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Hey guys, need some help determining crank length. I haev a 78.83 cm inseam and most calculators come up with a 170mm crank. I am getting a 51" frame and read that for fixed/singlespeed, it might be ideal to run shorter cranks, especially for cornering. What do you guys think about 165mm? Or should I go for 170mm? I run 172.5 on my road bike which is a slightly larger frame (52 or 54 cm, I forgot). Cranks are expensive so I don't want to make a mistake.

If these are going on a frame with road dimensions I would use 165mm cranks to decrease your chances of bottoming out, as the bottom bracket on a bike with road dimensions is lower than that of a bike with track dimensions.

If these are going on a frame with track dimensions you should be ok with 170mm cranks as, again, the bottom bracket is higher. For what it's worth I've also heard that a general rule of thumb is that your track cranklength is ~2.5mm shorter than your road cranklength.

Alternatively, I believe that the Sugino 75 crank set comes in 2.5mm increments so you might find a 167.5mm crank better to your liking as it's a bit of a happy median. The downside being that they are expensive and it would, to me at least, seem silly to run Sugino 75's on a road conversion when you could put that money twoards a proper track frame.

This is just my opinion and what I've heard; so I'd take it with a grain of salt. In either case, be sure to use proper track pedals.

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picked this up today cheap at a local shop brand new for $400...indifferent about the trackends on these cayne uno frames but not in favor of it i guess...

ill be switching out the saddle, takin off back brakes.

ill put up some better pictures soon

how do you like the uno? i've been eying the ebay $165+shipping frames for a long long long time now. I've heard the geometry/handling is comparable to the bianchi pista and to me-- drilled for brakes is a must for the hills in SF (at least for me and my skull).

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ive ridden both pista and the uno and they feel pretty similar to me. the guy at the bikeshop was telling me about the Uno's cuz i had never heard of it before and he said theyre pretty similar. id say get the frame and put on some better parts on it though. comes with cane creek headset, etc but, this things gonna need some upgrading but overall not bad of a deal for $500.

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Anyone have any tricks for removing cogs without a chain whip? I bought a new cog and a chain whip to fit it, but I don't have one to fit the old cog. Thanks

there's the rotafix method... or you can take off the lockring and apply some heavy ass backpedal pressure.............

actually this may not work so well for loosening.......dunno

http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

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there's the rotafix method... or you can take off the lockring and apply some heavy ass backpedal pressure.............

actually this may not work so well for loosening.......dunno

http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

Ya that worked just had to do the opposite. Thanks

Just finished up switching parts on my bike. I think that I got my chain tensioned right however my wheel is not spinning true. The back hub is as far into the horizontal dropouts as possible and the chain is tense, what would the reason be for the wheel not spinning true?

O ya any recomendations for a track frame and fork for $500 that would be available in Canada?

Thanks

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If these are going on a frame with road dimensions I would use 165mm cranks to decrease your chances of bottoming out, as the bottom bracket on a bike with road dimensions is lower than that of a bike with track dimensions.

If these are going on a frame with track dimensions you should be ok with 170mm cranks as, again, the bottom bracket is higher. For what it's worth I've also heard that a general rule of thumb is that your track cranklength is ~2.5mm shorter than your road cranklength.

Alternatively, I believe that the Sugino 75 crank set comes in 2.5mm increments so you might find a 167.5mm crank better to your liking as it's a bit of a happy median. The downside being that they are expensive and it would, to me at least, seem silly to run Sugino 75's on a road conversion when you could put that money twoards a proper track frame.

This is just my opinion and what I've heard; so I'd take it with a grain of salt. In either case, be sure to use proper track pedals.

Hi,

Thanks for your help. This is going on a Soma Rush which is a track frame but it will be used in the streets. Now things are more confusing huh? What do you think?

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I'm still wondering about a place to get 2" black riser barsonline. Anyone got any recommendations?

Kalloy6061DB1.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/KALLOY-6061-T6-Riser-ATB-Handlebar-50mm-Rise_W0QQitemZ170134841326QQihZ007QQcategoryZ56194QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

cheapo stuff on ebay.. 50mm close enuf to 2" right?:D

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Ya I believe so. Thats what you would need to know for getting a new frame?

Thanks

for a new frame you need the center tube measurements. that's from the bottom bracket (big round cylindrical area of your frame where your crank arms/pedal are installed to) up to your seat post

http://www.calfeedesign.com/framemeasurement.htm

generally it's the ST (seat tube) or called the center tube.

hate to spam you guys, but some of you mentioned wanting a hip pack. got one up for sale (and a playstation 2. i'd like to get that playstation out of my house, so offers/trades are very welcome):

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=33313

just a few preview pics:

IMG_0163-1.jpg

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Figured out that I am gonna get a new frame which would be better, Bare Knuckle or Brass Knuckle. What does the price difference get you?

Anyone use the Wilfried Huggi's formula for calculating frame size? Do you base frame size off of seat tube or top tube?

Thanks

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