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wolves when you stand over that top tube does it gnetly rest on your pouch?

i feel lke im at a 35-40 degree riding position... i dunno :x

there's about an inch between. also i don't think the leaning over is as bad if you're on risers. (:

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hey guys I have a mechanical question -

I had a few problems after I first got my bike put together. For example the stack bolts weren't done up properly, as I found out while riding around and hearing a "tinkling" (bolts falling on the road) and I only had 2 left holding it together. I took it back the next day and apparently everything got checked over and fixed and I was given the all clear. The next and possibly worst problem which Im asking about now, is when I would go to take off for example at a set of lights from stationary, occasionally something would slip and the crank would freely do a half turn and the result was my knee connecting with the top of the front forks. Incredibly painful and dangerous with cars around. I suspected it could be the chain tension, but It didnt feel that way, and I checked it to be sure. Took the bike back again and aparently it was fine (no explanation). It still happens occasionally. It turns out an apprentice put my bike together so that could explain the problems. I am not intimately familiar with the workings of the fixed hub/cog marriage, but could it be possible the lockring was done up too tightly (or crooked somehow), which could have stripped it, so when a lot of force is applied the cog slips, but then comes back around to a semi firm position again?

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hey guys I have a mechanical question -

I had a few problems after I first got my bike put together. For example the stack bolts weren't done up properly, as I found out while riding around and hearing a "tinkling" (bolts falling on the road) and I only had 2 left holding it together. I took it back the next day and apparently everything got checked over and fixed and I was given the all clear. The next and possibly worst problem which Im asking about now, is when I would go to take off for example at a set of lights from stationary, occasionally something would slip and the crank would freely do a half turn and the result was my knee connecting with the top of the front forks. Incredibly painful and dangerous with cars around. I suspected it could be the chain tension, but It didnt feel that way, and I checked it to be sure. Took the bike back again and aparently it was fine (no explanation). It still happens occasionally. It turns out an apprentice put my bike together so that could explain the problems. I am not intimately familiar with the workings of the fixed hub/cog marriage, but could it be possible the lockring was done up too tightly (or crooked somehow), which could have stripped it, so when a lot of force is applied the cog slips, but then comes back around to a semi firm position again?

naw yo

your lockring is just loose

thats all.

ive had that problem when i had my windsor hour and iro

all you need to do is take it to your LBS and have them tighten up your lockring

DONT locktight it

edit:

locktighting could fuck up your whole rear wheel

unless you know what ur doin

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^Ive seen them online for around $800, have a look here.

Yeah, but those prices are.... I dont know what, but they are too high IMO. I just saw 2 Vivalos and a Bomber Pro all end on Ebay within the last few days and none of them topped 600USD (the BP was $455!).

BTW, I just picked up a Samson for 400USD ;)

001ux4.jpg

******EDIT*****

What size are you looking for?

Heres a 51.5cm one, but I dont really know what u r looking for....

http://velospace.org/node/12904

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my bike

Still old, and still crusty, but i put a fresh coat of paint on it. And yes i sanded the red off first, hopefully it looks better. its a Schwinn Worldsoprt, its too small for me and I am going to buy a new frame and invest in a new wheelset (deep v maybe?)

Before

2667857370_e1ca5bc358.jpg

After

2794576700_b2e0b88663.jpg

2794583638_caec8f7c1b.jpg

2793731737_282de35d35.jpg

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with all the hype behind NJS right now, im interested to know how much most of you would pay for a lightly used eimei frame.

You're better off looking at a Vivalo. Vivalo lost their NJS certification because of a fork breaking on a racer, because of the lack of an NJS stamp on the BB lug, the price of resale drops ridiculously. Even though most of the VIvalo frames you will look at will still have the stamp unless you order custom from them.

Especially since nothing really distinguishes one brand from another in Japanese frame builders. They're practically the same frames with slightly different angles, a different label, and different paint, nothing tooo drastic.

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You're better off looking at a Vivalo. Vivalo lost their NJS certification because of a fork breaking on a racer, because of the lack of an NJS stamp on the BB lug, the price of resale drops ridiculously. Even though most of the VIvalo frames you will look at will still have the stamp unless you order custom from them.

Especially since nothing really distinguishes one brand from another in Japanese frame builders. They're practically the same frames with slightly different angles, a different label, and different paint, nothing tooo drastic.

Yeah, this is basically true, but one thing to keep in mind is that just becasuse an existing frame has the stamp does not mean that it is kosher. Basically, Vivalos built after a certain date are suspect even with the stamp, but I dont know what the date is (although Im sure that someone here, or on BFSSFG knows it). Also, given the relatively low number of faliures the danger of riding a Vivalo may be overstated(?). There are tons of kinds here rollin Vivalos, I might even go so far as to say that a majority of fixed gear bikes are Vivalos (that or Pana, or a Bridgestone).

Just something to keep in mind.

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thanks for the responses.

i was talking to one of the guys at orange20 today. he was telling me njs frames dont always hold up when riding on the streets cause sometimes the tubing is thinner. i dont have a doubt in my mind that this is true but does anyone have any horror stories involving snapped/tweaked njs frames? i dont do any tricks but want something somewhat reliable.

any help is appreciated. these past few weeks have been a headache trying to find a reliable nice classic lugged frame for less than 650 bones.

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decided to get a road bike instead of driving to school everyday, since my school wants 650 bucks for parking. i was looking for a drop bar road bike that would be a comfortable commuter, but also good for long rides on weekends as i start to get into the sport. i tried out a scott speedster s50, and it seemed nice, but of course i got on the internet and began looking around and now have a bunch of bikes running through my mind. anyone recommend any of the following for one reason or another?

Specialized Allez triple or Allez triple elite.

Litespeed Vela

Giant OCR

Scott Speedster S40 or S50

This is my first road bike and Im a beginner, so if any of these are beyond my needs, it'd be great to know before my lbs convinces me otherwise. Thanks for any help.

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Those looking to get into an entry level fixie that isn't quite as cool as the others, yet is made as sustainably as possible and at a good price:

http://kindbike.com/index.php/bikes/fixie/

For those that are concerned with sustainability and the like, Chris King is also pretty environmentally friendly and makes great parts as well. From their homepage:

Energy conservation: From utilizing sky lights to naturally light much of the building to insulation that provides up to 20x more effectiveness than that of normal buildings, every aspect of our building's design addresses the ever present need to reduce energy consumption.

'Green' materials: All building materials were considered for both their content and manufacturing processes. Where ever possible, the most 'green' materials possible were chosen. Of course, supplies such as packing materials, kitchen supplies, paper products, etc. are all evaluated for their environmental impact.

Recycling: It should go without saying, but we make it a policy to recycle/reuse everything possible (keep this in mind when you see us using the non-biodegradable packaging 'peanuts'...Reuse is better than sending them to a dump).

Manufacturing processes: Making stuff creates waste - there's no way around it. What we can do, however, is make sure we handle each and every process as efficiently and responsibly as possible. Our biggest accomplishment right now is our new anodizing line. By taking this typically dirty step in house, we were able to clean it up to our standards - which for us means ZERO waste water discharge. This absolutely state of the art line completely recycles all of the water it uses and produces minimal solid waste. It cost a fortune, but we all sleep better at night knowing we're not supporting the typical, potentially highly polluting, anodizing process.

We're constantly evaluating the way we do things in order to seek more environmentally conscious means towards making our world a better, more enjoyable place to live and ride.

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building a bike and looking for bottom bracket, needs a french threaded bottom bracket, can I put a Italian bottom bracket on it? I've search ebay only 2 French ones came up and too pricy for me. If Italian BB dont fit anyone know where I can get cheaper French BB. Help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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building a bike and looking for bottom bracket, needs a french threaded bottom bracket, can I put a Italian bottom bracket on it? I've search ebay only 2 French ones came up and too pricy for me. If Italian BB dont fit anyone know where I can get cheaper French BB. Help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No you most definitely can't use an Italian BB if its French threaded. This question has just come up already in this thread, would be good if you searched.

I found a French threaded BB by trawling for French threaded Sugino BB cups, then buying a bog standard English threaded bottom bracket and substituting the bearings and spindle.

Or you could have the frame threads refaced... Good bike shop or builder could do this. But might be costly.

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Need a new set of pedals and toe covers/straps.

Good recommendations? I'm looking for something with thicker straps, possibly double straps, and heavier/sturdier toe cages than these stock Kilo TT ones...

As far as pedal's go, just looking for something sturdy and can take a beating.

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