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canice

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i'm sure your wheel size is 27", but your options will be more limited if you stick to 27". check the side of the tire, and it will most likely say 27 or 700. you could buy 700c wheels, but your brakes might not reach the rims.. get long reach brakes if you get new ones (if its needed).

if you buy new wheels, they come built and have new hubs anyway, so no need for new hubs. the front hub should be 100mm, but could be a 96 or 91mm. The back looks like its 120mm spacing, because its a 5 speed. to check, take out the wheels, take a ruler and measure the spacing between the drop outs in mm.

thanks alot,

what are some good brands of wheels to look at?

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the only thing that's "better" on there are the cranks. for $150 more you're getting different colors and a gold chain.

wrong. the TT Pro is made of Reynolds 520, while the basic TT is just regular 4130 cromo.

wheels are much nicer too, imo, though still pretty crappy in the long run.

brake is a welcome addition, too. in some places, it's the law to have a brake, and all bikes should be sold with one; whether you use it or not is up to you.

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wrong. the TT Pro is made of Reynolds 520, while the basic TT is just regular 4130 cromo.

wheels are much nicer too, imo, though still pretty crappy in the long run.

brake is a welcome addition, too. in some places, it's the law to have a brake, and all bikes should be sold with one; whether you use it or not is up to you.

i did some research and they're saying reynolds 520 is still simlar to 4130 cromo.

they're both steel so dunno if the way you put it is suppsoed to say that reynolds is better.

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i did some research and they're saying reynolds 520 is still simlar to 4130 cromo.

they're both steel so dunno if the way you put it is suppsoed to say that reynolds is better.

i should clarify what i said: the TT Pro is made with Reynolds 520 tubeset, and the TT is made with a generic tubeset of 4130.

4130 cromo is just a standard for a material. Reynolds 520 is literally made out of 4130!

BUT there's more to a tubeset than just the material it's made out from. tubes have a shape, a butting profile, diameter, etc. all this goes into the final result. for example: with better engineered tube shape, you can have thinner walls, which results in a lighter weight but equal strength.

that being said, I'd be interested to see if the 520 upgrade actually makes a difference. have to wait until people start riding these bikes and weighing their frames i guess.

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i should clarify what i said: the TT Pro is made with Reynolds 520 tubeset, and the TT is made with a generic tubeset of 4130.

4130 cromo is just a standard for a material. Reynolds 520 is literally made out of 4130!

BUT there's more to a tubeset than just the material it's made out from. tubes have a shape, a butting profile, diameter, etc. all this goes into the final result. for example: with better engineered tube shape, you can have thinner walls, which results in a lighter weight but equal strength.

that being said, I'd be interested to see if the 520 upgrade actually makes a difference. have to wait until people start riding these bikes and weighing their frames i guess.

My 2006 Kilo has a Reynolds 520 sticker on it so that doesn't seem to be much of an upgrade. The BD website describes the Kilo as a 4130 frame and the Pro as a 520. I really think its just a marketing ploy though because me 2-3 year old bike has the 520 sticker anyway.

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My 2006 Kilo has a Reynolds 520 sticker on it so that doesn't seem to be much of an upgrade. The BD website describes the Kilo as a 4130 frame and the Pro as a 520. I really think its just a marketing ploy though because me 2-3 year old bike has the 520 sticker anyway.

interesting

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i ended up taking the tweaked frame to the shop and we did a swap for another one.

new frame, same parts:

CIMG1240.jpg

tire looks like its touching the seat tube. there's about 3mm of clearance. lol.

to give you a better idea of how the paint shines (black/green with mad metallic flakes)... a little dusty from a beach ride.

CIMG1243.jpg

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looks like a sweet ride!~

i've been finding that when i press down on my pedal my left foot (the 2nd toe) bunches up and pokes out the joint.. and rubs on shoe... arghhh!

any good gear ratios?

running 48 x 17 (stock madison)

btw, how heavy are your bikes...? mine feels like 20-25 pounds

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that is a very nice bike and the tighter the clearance, the better I think. More precision into making the bike.

my bike (shitty bowery) weighs almost exactly 20 lbs. So I figure any fairly decent bike should be around there. Then again, my shit's all aluminum, but it may not be as aerodynamic or physically stable as a steel frame, which may be heavier.

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i see people in videos and in life whip their bikes like its no prob..... :( :(

although i did see a hipster fixed gear and i held it... that shit felt like 10 pounds... :confused:

i do know that the stock parts on my schwinn are horribly thick and heavy... so gotta change it out :rolleyes:

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Guest youkinorn
i see people in videos and in life whip their bikes like its no prob..... :( :(

although i did see a hipster fixed gear and i held it... that shit felt like 10 pounds... :confused:

i do know that the stock parts on my schwinn are horribly thick and heavy... so gotta change it out :rolleyes:

I'm riding a madison, too, and my shit is just getting heavier as I switch parts, ha. New chainring is heavier, new saddle is way heavier (it's a brooks, though, so expected), etc...

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changed 48/14 to 48/17 and omg, it's is so easier to ride and skid.

i was wondering when people ride on the streets, do they skid to brake? or they do something else?

usually those w/o brakes constantly skid to brake then trackstand to stay still... and are you serious... running a 48 x 17?

youkinorn are we riding 48 x 17's? (stock i mean)

cause if so... somethings up i cant skid right!

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