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canice

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Dear SF Bike Experts,

I'm looking for a bike in the $300 range, something like a Bianchi Pista -style sort of fixed-gear. I've searched this thread and the net for more info, and all I can really find is: 'get lucky on craigslist.' Any help? Thanks!

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thinking of picking up a specialized since i may not fit the raleigh ... but after all these questions and readings i hope my post to all the future ppl 'new to fixed gears' read this.

no matter what you get you'll enjoy it and you'll start changing parts as you wear them out. getting something in the 600 dollar range is a fact of life and thats for entry-levels. theres no "best" one out of the 600 dollar ranges... it all comes down to what you want and like!

Dear SF Bike Experts,

I'm looking for a bike in the $300 range, something like a Bianchi Pista -style sort of fixed-gear. I've searched this thread and the net for more info, and all I can really find is: 'get lucky on craigslist.' Any help? Thanks!

as i said before :x

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Yeah he's right. Don't buy the BikesDirect bikes. I bought one in June, although I'm happy with it, I've definitely ended up spending at least 100-200 on it just replacing things. A couple of my friends also got lucky on Craigslist and bought a Pista for 450 and another one bought a Steamroller for 375.

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if you're tightening your shit correctly, loctite isn't necessary. don't loctite your stuff!

just tighten on the cog as much as you can with a whip, or rotafix it for even more leverage, tighten the locring against it as tight as you can and just look at it after your first few longer/harder rides to make sure they're staying tight.

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im building a wheel soon. tell me if the cons about it

im getting a slotted hub (which for some reason, no bike store around here carries, why?cheap?) and lacing it with 20 bladed spokes, so it would be pretty much an ultra light weight front wheel.

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im building a wheel soon. tell me if the cons about it

im getting a slotted hub (which for some reason, no bike store around here carries, why?cheap?) and lacing it with 20 bladed spokes, so it would be pretty much an ultra light weight front wheel.

you're really light weight and don't hop curbs?
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im still going to hop curbs and smash streets...

the front wheel for spoke count isn't as important as the rear wheel. You would typically want your rear wheel to have more spokes to relieve the tension from skidding, pulling the hub back when the wheel is wanting to go a different direction causing the spokes to tense.

but front wheel, i highly doubt that I'm going to hop down a curb and the spoke is going to snap from that tension. even bunny hopping off of random shit won't even snap it.

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Yeah he's right. Don't buy the BikesDirect bikes. I bought one in June, although I'm happy with it, I've definitely ended up spending at least 100-200 on it just replacing things. A couple of my friends also got lucky on Craigslist and bought a Pista for 450 and another one bought a Steamroller for 375.

i rode a kilo tt with only changing out the pedals and seat, for like 8 months. through the winter, 15-20 miles daily, no problems. I think a lot of people over estimate their need for new and better components, especially beginners. imo the kilo's absolutely worth the money

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im building a wheel soon. tell me if the cons about it

im getting a slotted hub (which for some reason, no bike store around here carries, why?cheap?) and lacing it with 20 bladed spokes, so it would be pretty much an ultra light weight front wheel.

Thats not enough info to say that is going to be a good wheel or not... The most important factor is the quality of the build, not the rims or hubs or spoke count. A machine or shitty built wheel is going to be weak and go out of true off the bat no matter how many spokes or or how much money you spent on the components... Are you building it yourself? What rim/hub/spokes are you going to use? Lacing pattern? spoke gauge?

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Thats not enough info to say that is going to be a good wheel or not... The most important factor is the quality of the build, not the rims or hubs or spoke count. A machine or shitty built wheel is going to be weak and go out of true off the bat no matter how many spokes or or how much money you spent on the components... Are you building it yourself? What rim/hub/spokes are you going to use? Lacing pattern? spoke gauge?

why would lacing pattern matter? its all the same tension (a bike store mechanic told me).

rim is 20h alex r450s, hub is an old school hub that most of you haven't heard of ROLF and the spokes, I will know after i measure out the spacings.

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why would lacing pattern matter? its all the same tension (a bike store mechanic told me).

rim is 20h alex r450s, hub is an old school hub that most of you haven't heard of ROLF and the spokes, I will know after i measure out the spacings.

Lacing can make a big difference... for instance radial has a lot of lateral stiffness and is lighter (shorter spokes) but can put a lot of stress on your hubs shouldn't be used for rear wheels... 3 cross is the standard... crows foot is really good but can only really be done on rims/hubs with spoke counts that are a multiple of 6...

anyway, you'll be fine as long as the person building it knows whats up and you don't ride it really hard (off curbs and such)

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